Bubble Stream May 17, 2011

 

A while back, I was asked by Suzan at Barking Dog Yarn to design some socks for her Ravelry group’s KAL (knitalong, for those not in the know).  The design uses her Opposite’s Attract line of yarn, which I think is a really cool idea for colorways.  I like so many of the colors she’s got.  The yarn itself is super soft and very nice to knit with.

 

The end result of this collaboration was Bubble Stream.  In keeping with the “opposites” theme, the socks feature a mirrored design, with a mock cable crossing the top of the foot in opposite directions.  This means that the foot of the sock is worked differently for each sock- I was told that this helped some of the second sock syndrome!  I’ll keep that in mind for future designs.

 

 

The mock cable ribbing on the cuff knits up fast, easy, and fun.  While I made these socks longer to show off the colorway, I think they’d look great as ankle socks since the really interesting part is on the foot.

 

This pattern is pretty long, since each foot has different instructions.  I recommend downloading the PDF instead of reading it below.

 

 

 

Errata

4/2/11: The symbol for m1 (M on the charts) was not in the key. 

4/3/11: In the instructions for the heel turn for both socks, Row 3 should read “Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.”  In the instructions for the heel turn for both socks, Row 4 should read “Sl 1, p7, ssk, k1, turn.”

4/14/11: Clarified the heel flap instructions on Row 1 and 2.  Changed the optional shorter toe charts on the last page to the correct number of sts.

 

Bubble Stream

Download the PDF: Bubble Stream

• Finished Size: 7.5” midfoot circumference
• Yarn: Barking Dog Yarns Opposites Attract [100% Superwash merino] 400 yds/4 oz Color: Tristan and Isolde; 1 skein
• Needle: Size 1 (2.25mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
• Gauge: 40 sts x 58 rows = 4” in Chart B
• Notions: Scrap yarn or stitch holder, 3 stitch markers, tapestry needle

 

Special Stitches

Mock Cable: Insert right needle purlwise into third stitch on the left needle. Pull this stitch up and over the first two stitches and off the needle. Knit the first stitch on the left needle, yarn over, knit the second stitch. Mock cable completed.

m1: Insert left needle under the strand between the stitches from front to back and knit into the back of the new stitch

m1p: Insert left needle under the strand between the stitches from back to front and purl into the front of the new stitch

k tbl: knit through the back loop

sm: slip marker

 

Notes

The pattern begins by casting on in “Color 1.” Either miniskein of Opposites Attract can be Color 1; it is just a shorter way of saying “use the color that you’re not using for the leg of the sock.”

Charts for each sock are shown at the end of the instructions.  Charts A and B are the same for both socks and are shown twice.

The sock measures about 7 inches long by the time Chart E/H is completed; the last part of the pattern has a suggestion for shortening the sock if needed. If you don’t need a shorter sock, then this advice can be ignored.

 

Right Sock

Cuff

CO 64 sts in Color 1. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. “Color 1” can be either color.

Work Rounds 1-4 of Chart A until work measures 1 inch from cast on, ending on Round 4.  Chart A repeats 4 times around the sock.

Cut Color 1 and join Color 2.

Leg

Work Rounds 1-4 of Chart B until leg is desired length (shown 6 inches) ending on Round 4. Chart B repeats 4 times around the sock.

Heel

To center the heel flap and instep design, the first stitch of the round is knitted and placed on the heel needle as the first stitch of the heel.

Row 1 (RS): Knit the first st of the round, turn. This is the first heel stitch.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl 15, m1p, p15, turn. 1 st increased.

Heel will be worked back and forth over these 32 stitches. The heel stitches, including the stitch from Row 1, should be on one needle. Put the other 33 stitches on a spare needle, scrap yarn, or stitch holder as desired.

Row 3 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, p31, turn.

Row 5 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.

Repeat Rows 4-5 another 14 times, for a total of 32 rows (16 slipped stitches on each side of the heel flap) ending on Row 5.

Turn Heel

Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, p17, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 2 (RS): Sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 3: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 4: Sl 1, p7, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 5: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 6: Sl 1, k9, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 7: Sl 1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 8: Sl 1, k11, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 9: Sl 1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 10: Sl 1, k13, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 11: Sl 1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 12: Sl 1, k15, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 13: Sl 1, p16, p2tog, turn.

Row 14: Sl 1, k16, ssk, do not turn. 18 sts remain.

Gusset

Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap. Instep: K2, *p5, k3,* 3x, p5, k2. Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap, k7, k2tog. Mark this as the beginning of the round. The decrease takes care of the extra stitch that was increased on the heel flap. 82 sts.

The decreases for the gusset on the right side will consume instep stitches. The decreases for the gusset on the left side will consume the gusset stitches as normal. Chart C is worked once per round; it does not repeat.

K16, work next row of Chart C, knit to the end of the round.

Continue as above until all 18 rows of Chart C have been worked. 64 sts.

Foot

Chart D continues the crossover pattern from Chart C. Chart D is worked once per round; it does not repeat.

K15, work next row of Chart D, knit to the end of the round.

Work as above until all 44 rows of Chart D have been worked.

Chart E continues the crossover pattern. Chart E is worked on the left side of the instep; it does not repeat.

K37, work next row of Chart E, knit to the end of the round.

Continue as above until all 17 rows of Chart E have been worked.

Knit until foot is 1.5” shorter than desired length.

Toe

Cut Color 1 and join Color 2.

Set Up Round: K16, place marker, k32, place marker, k16.

Round 1: Knit to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before second marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until 24 stitches remain.

Graft remaining stitches together. 

Weave in all ends and block if desired.

  Charts are not listed in the order they’re worked; Charts C-E are arranged to show the overall pattern of the foot.  Click on the charts to enlarge.

Chart E		Chart A
Chart D		Chart B
Chart C

 

Left Sock

Cuff

CO 64 sts in Color 2. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work Rows 1-4 of Chart A until work measures 1 inch from cast on, ending on Row 4. Chart A repeats 4 times around the sock.

Cut Color 2 and join Color 1.

Leg

Work Rows 1-4 of Chart B until leg is desired length (shown 6 inches) ending on Row 4. Chart B repeats 4 times around the sock.

Heel

To center the heel flap and instep design, the first stitch of the round is knitted and placed on the heel needle as the first stitch of the heel.

Row 1 (RS): Knit the first st of the round, turn. This is the first heel stitch.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl 15, m1p, p15, turn. 1 st increased.

Heel will be worked back and forth over these 32 stitches. The heel stitches, including the stitch from Row 1, should be on one needle. Put the other 33 stitches on a spare needle, scrap yarn, or stitch holder as desired.

Row 3 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, p31, turn.

Row 5 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.

Repeat Rows 4-5 another 14 times, for a total of 32 rows (16 slipped stitches on each side of the heel flap) ending on Row 5.

Turn Heel

Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, p17, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 2 (RS): Sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 3: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 4: Sl 1, p7, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 5: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 6: Sl 1, k9, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 7: Sl 1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 8: Sl 1, k11, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 9: Sl 1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 10: Sl 1, k13, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 11: Sl 1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 12: Sl 1, k15, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 13: Sl 1, p16, p2tog, turn.

Row 14: Sl 1, k16, ssk, do not turn.  18 sts remain.

Gusset

Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap, place marker. Instep: K2, *p5, k3,* 3x, p5, k2. Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap, k7, k2tog. Mark this as the beginning of the round. The decrease takes care of the extra stitch that was increased on the heel flap. 82 sts.

The decreases for the gusset on the left side will consume instep stitches. The decreases for the gusset on the right side will consume the gusset stitches as normal. Chart F is worked once per round; it does not repeat.

Knit to 3 sts before marker, work next row of Chart F, knit to the end of the round.

Continue as above until all 18 rows of Chart F have been worked. Remove marker. 64 sts.

Foot

Chart G continues the crossover pattern from Chart F. Chart G is worked once per round; it does not repeat.

K16, work next row of Chart G, knit to the end of the round.

Work as above until all 44 rows of Chart G have been worked.

Chart H continues the crossover pattern. Chart H is worked on the right side of the instep; it does not repeat.

K16, work Chart H, knit to the end of the round.

Continue as above until all 17 rows of Chart H have been worked.

Knit until foot is 1.5” shorter than desired length.

Toe

Cut Color 1 and join Color 2.

Set Up Round: K16, place marker, k32, place marker, k16.

Round 1: Knit to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to second marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until 24 stitches remain.

Graft remaining stitches together. Weave in all ends and block if desired.

Chart H		Chart A
Chart G		Chart B
Chart F

Tip!

The sock foot should measure about 7 inches long after Chart E/H are completed. The toe is 1.5 inches long, which means that the pattern as written will be no shorter than 8.5 inches. If a shorter sock is desired, some or all of Chart E/H can be worked at the same time as some of the toe decreases. Skip the increases on the chart and only work the decreases. The rest of the toe would be worked as normal This makes the sock about 1 inch shorter. Below is an example of this, where Chart E/H are worked entirely during the toe decreases.

 

Sample Toe 1	Sample Toe 2

 

 

 

Please Note: If you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein@gmail.com.  Or you can contact me on Ravelry as CailynDragon.

 

This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

Java January 16, 2011

I can’t tell you how happy I am.  After many tries, I finally made it into Knitty with my socks, Java!

 

 

I hinted at these socks back in March of 2010.  They were designed during one of my “ribbing periods.”  That’s a (short) length of time where I am obsessed with ribbing.  I think that it’s the bee’s knees.  I think that ribbing is misunderstood.  I think that it will change the face of knitting as we know it.  This usually passes when I remember that, in general, I don’t enjoy actually knitting ribbing.  But, often after a complicated project, I crave the predictability of a ribbed pattern.  Lucky for these socks, the ribbing period coincided with a desire to design men’s socks.  I thought to myself, “What’s more classic than a ribbed dress sock?”

 

 

 

Then the other, bitter part of me said (in a voice like Tim Gunn), “Classic means it’s been done to death.”

With that less-than-helpful advice in my head, I tried to find a balance between interesting and “classic.”  When I was first dating Lowell, he described his criteria for clothes to me.  He told me that colors and bold patterns mattered less than the close-up textures- the small details that weren’t obvious from a distance.  I thought about that idea while I worked on these socks.  I wanted to stick with the spirit of a plain dress sock but to play around with the details.  So these socks have a little caffeinated wiggle every other rib.  From a distance the wiggles look like regular k2 ribs, but the texture is great up close.  Fun to knit, too.  And the gusset isn’t just patterned- the decreases aren’t normal either.  Also, I kept the pattern going down the toes because, well, why not?  Plain toes are no fun!

 

 

 

 

 

I had plenty of fun knitting Java, which is good, because I knit it twice!  Which I suppose is really four times, since there are two socks in each pair.  The men’s pair is made with String Theory Blue Stocking.  I loved working with that yarn.  It has great stitch definition (always a priority for me) and is still soft and lofty.  They’re modeled by Lowell in our kitchen, who was a really good sport about the photo shoot.  The women’s pair is made with Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock which is always a great sock yarn.  The women’s size is modeled by my sister Katie and taken at 3 Cups in Chapel Hill, NC.  They were really nice to let us photograph there (and they only gave us a few funny looks).  Good coffee, too!

 

 

I am over the moon about this.  I think Java is a great pattern and I hope everyone else enjoys it as much as I did.

 

   

 

 

 

If you’ve just hopped over from Knitty and haven’t been here before, welcome!  Check out the blue menu (top right) for illustrated lists of projects, tutorials, and patterns; the green sidebars have tags and archives, etc.  Enjoy!

 

Now, if you will excuse me, I am going to go drool over the rest of this issue!

Logi January 7, 2010

 

 

"When Loki and Thor traveled to Utgard, the citadel of the giants, they were told by the giant king that no one could stay in the citadel without proving themselves superior at a skill or craft.

Loki was the first to demonstrate his skill, saying that he could eat faster than anyone in the hall. He started at one end of the table and his challenger, the giant Logi, started at the other, eating towards the center. Loki ate everything, leaving only the bones behind. But Logi ate the bones and even the wooden trencher!

In the morning, the giant king revealed that he had tricked them. Logi, he told them, was fire itself and no one could consume faster than fire. Utgard vanished, along with the giants, and Thor and Loki returned home."

That is an extremely abridged version of one of my favorite Norse myths, where Thor and Loki go to fight some giants and end up humiliated by a clever king and some magic. The cable on this scarf was inspired by the interlocking designs on Viking armor and jewelry which is surrounded by double moss stitch borders. The cable starts and ends in a pair of points, like the tips of a flame. To do this, fewer stitches are cast on and then increases are worked to make the points.

 

 

 

This scarf was designed for my brother-in-law, and if you’d ever seen him and my husband eat a pile of barbeque, you’ll know the other reason this scarf is named Logi.  This is a great pattern to knit for guys, especially when you tell them that the cable is Viking-related!

 

Using one skein (200 or so yards) of Malabrigo will produce a short but still respectable length scarf. In order to make the scarf wider and/or longer, add a second skein. To easily make this scarf wider, add pairs of stitches to each edge and work them in double moss stitch. For example, the first row for a wider scarf might read "Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice x3 , p12, *k1, p1* twice x3, k1, turn." This adds two stitches to each the right and left side.

 

The scarf will have a tendency to flip inwards around the cable as it’s worked. This is because of the two columns of purl stitches on either side of the cable. When the scarf is finished, steam block the scarf aggressively to relax the fibers and minimize the flipping. Wet blocking will work but steam blocking is more effective for combating the flip.  Learn more about steam blocking versus wet blocking at TechKnitting, Knitty, and KnitSimple.

 

Edit 2/23/10: Renamed the increases so that the names in the instructions and the names in the key match.

 

  

Logi

Download the PDF: Logi

• Needles: One pair size 9 (5.5mm) straight needles or size needed to obtain gauge
• Yarn: Malabrigo Worsted [100% merino wool] 216 yds/3.5oz Color: Loro Barranquero; 1 skein
• Yardage: 200-250 yards (180-225m)
• Gauge: 26 sts x 21 rows = 4”(10cm) in pattern
• Finished Size: 4.5” x 52” (11.5cm x 132cm)
• Notions: Cable needle, tapestry needle

 

Special Stitches

LRinc: Insert right needle into the right leg of the knit stitch or the top of the purl stitch below the next stitch. Knit this new stitch.

LLinc: Insert left needle into the left leg of the knit stitch or the top of the purl stitch two rows below the stitch just worked. Knit this new stitch.

K2tog: Knit 2 together

SSK: Slip next 2 sts purlwise. Insert left needle into the front loops of the slipped stitches and knit them together.

P2tog: Purl 2 together

SSP: Slip next 2 sts knitwise. Return sts to left needle and p2tog through the back loops.

C4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the front. K2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.

C4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the back. K2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.

T4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the front. P2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.

T4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the back. K2 from left needle, then p2 from cable needle.

 

Scarf

 

CO 22 sts.

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice, p12, *k1, p1* twice, k1, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.

Row 3 (RS): Sl 1, *k1, p1* twice, p12, *p1, k1* twice, p1, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.

 

Work Chart A for 8 rows. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right. 8 sts increased. 30 sts

 

Work Chart B until scarf is 2.5 inches less than desired length, ending on Row 16. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right.

 

Work Chart C for 10 rows. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right. 8 sts decreased. 22 sts

 

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, *k1, p1* twice, p12, *p1, k1* twice, p1, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.

Row 3 (RS): Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice, p12, *k1, p1* twice, k1, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Bind off all sts knitwise.

 

Finishing: Weave in ends. Steam block to relax the fiber’s tendency to flip inwards at the edge of the cable. Steam blocking will lessen the flip more than wet blocking.

 

Click on charts for bigger image, or download the PDF above.

 

 

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested, but they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein@gmail.com.

 

This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

Cabobble November 30, 2009

 

Simple, cute mittens are always in style. Add a funny name and how can you lose? The name is a combination of “cable: and “bobble” inspired by the off-center cable which features small, easy bobbles for interest. The afterthought thumb is simple to knit and the shaping at the top of the mitten makes a very flat top. This is a great project for some luxury or handspun yarn.

 

The purple mittens shown were snatched up by my sister last year.  I really enjoyed working with this yarn; it was my first Debbie Bliss yarn if you can believe it.  The second pair is being knit in Twilley’s Freedom Spirit in Fire.  I love the subtle self-striping and the way it highlights the cables and bobbles. 

 

        

 

Cabobble Mittens

Download the PDF Cabobble Mittens

• Needle Size: Size 3 (3.25mm) DPNs
• Yarn: Debbie Bliss Rialto DK Purple (100% Extrafine Merino) 2 balls, 116 yds/50g
• Yardage: 190 –230 yards
• Gauge: 26 sts x 38 sts= 4” in stockinette
• Finished Size: Hand, 7”; Length, 8 5/8”
• Notions: Cable needle, 6” smooth waste yarn, tapestry needle

Special Stitches

T5R: Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, then k3 from cable needle.

T5L: Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, k3, then k2 from cable needle.

C3B: Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, then p1 from cable needle.

C3F: Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p1, then k2 from cable needle.

MB (make bobble): Knit into the front and back of the next stitch twice, turn and p4, turn, sl 1, k3tog, psso. Bobble completed.

 

Cuff (same for both mittens)

CO 48 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: *K1, p1* repeat from * to * to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 2” long.

 

Right Hand

Increase Round: M1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, k13, m1, k2, m1, k20, m1, k2. 4 sts increased. 52 sts

Cable Rounds

Round 1: K1, p3, T5R, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: K1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 3: K1, p2, C3B, p1, C3F, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 4: K1, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: K1, p1, C3B, p1, MB, p1, C3F, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 6: K1, p1, k2, p5, k2, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 7: K1, p1, C3F, p3, C3B, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 8: K1, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 9: K1, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 10: K1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1-8 again.

Next round (counts as round 9): K1, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, k14; using waste yarn, k8, slip these sts back to left needle and knit again with working yarn; knit to the end of the round.

Starting with Round 10, continue Cable Rounds 1-10 4 more times, ending after Round 1.

Top Shaping

Round 1: *K2, k2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 39 sts

Round 2 and 4: Knit even.

Round 3: *K1, k2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 26 sts

Round 5: *K2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 13 sts

Round 6: *K2tog* repeat from * to * to last st of round, k1. 7 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

Left Hand

Increase Round: K1, m1, k12, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, m1, k2, m1, k20, m1, k2. 4 sts increased. 52 sts

Round 1: K14, p3, T5L, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: K14, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 3: K14, p2, C3B, p1, C3F, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 4: K14, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: K14, p1, C3B, p1, MB, p1, C3F, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 6: K14, p1, k2, p5, k2, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 7: K14, p1, C3F, p3, C3B, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 8: K14, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 9: K14, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 10: K14, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1-8 again.

Next round (counts as round 9): K14, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, k19; using waste yarn, k8, slip these sts back to left needle and knit again with working yarn.

Starting with Round 10, continue Cable Rounds 1-10 4 more times, ending after Round 1.

Top Shaping

Round 1: *K2, ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 39 sts

Round 2 and 4: Knit even.

Round 3: *K1, ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 26 sts

Round 5: *Ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 13 sts

Round 6: *Ssk* repeat from * to * to last st of round, k1. 7 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

Thumb (same for both mittens)

Carefully remove waste yarn from thumb and place live sts on DPNs. There will be 8 sts on the bottom and 7 sts on top. Join yarn and knit across the bottom 8 sts. Pick up 4 sts along the side of the opening, knit the 7 top sts, then pick up 4 sts along the other side. 23 sts

Knit 1 round.

Next Round: *K1, ssk* 7 times, k2. 16 sts

Knit even until thumb measures 2” or ¼” shorter than desired length.

Thumb Shaping

Round 1: K1, *k1, ssk* 5 times. 11 sts

Round 2: Knit even

Round 3: K1, *ssk* to the end of the round. 5 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

  

 

This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

Wintergreen Gloves October 5, 2009

 

These cute fingerless gloves are inspired by traditional Selbu mittens.  The construction differs from the historical mittens and uses a thumb gusset on the side of the hand instead of a gusset on the palm, but the motifs are all taken from traditional patterns.  I can’t decide if the main motif reminds me of hearts, mint leaves, or snowflakes.  The construction is essentially the same as the Snowflake and the Albuquerque Fingerless Gloves.  But these gloves only use five colors (and the background color doesn’t change)!  I love knitting these style gloves.  They seem to knit up faster than other projects, probably because the pattern changes every row- it’s very addicting!  And there’s no fingers to mess with.  I’ve found that wearing these over a thin glove liner is just about perfect for Seattle mornings and of course they’re great for typing in cold offices or computer rooms.

 

There are separate mirrored charts for the right and left glove for easier knitting (no reading from left to right while knitting right to left!) Charts are available in color and symbols below and in the PDF. To make finishing less painful, weave in ends as you go by twisting/wrapping the last yarn for 10-15 sts on the new row. Try joining the new color 10- 15 sts early (the row before it appears on the chart) and carry it along, twisting/wrapping it every other st. This helps eliminate holes at the sides.

 

The increases for the thumb gusset are written as yarn overs which are knit twisted on the next round. Standard lifted increases can be substituted; the yarn over method can prevent puckering or tension problems from lifting the strands from below. I recommend marking the increases for the thumb with two stitch markers: place the first one before the first YO and the second one after the second YO on the first increase row. Slip the markers every round after this; it will make it easier to know which stitches to put on the scrap yarn when the gusset is finished.

 

These gloves can be knitted from the charts alone between the ribbing sections, but instructions have been written for rows with increases, decreases, or other things that need attention. If there are no written instructions for a row, follow the chart until the next written row.

 

Wintergreen Gloves

Download the PDF: Wintergreen Gloves

• Finished Size: Hand circumference, 7”; Length, 7”
• Needle Size: Size 0 (2.00mm) DPNs
• Gauge: 38 sts x 26 rows = 4” in two-color stockinette
• Yarn: Knit Picks Palette (100% wool) 1 ball each (231yd/50g): White, Sky, Pool, Tidepool Heather, Marine Heather
• Notions: 12” smooth waste yarn, tapestry needle

Errata

11/7/09- Fixed column numbers along the bottom of the charts; numbers now count correctly by 5’s instead of "1, 5, 10, 11, 15."  Fixed written instructions to Round 39.

12/9/09- Fixed gauge error.

1/26/10- Fixed decrease round before Top Ribbing; “k2tog, k6” has been changed to “k2tog, k5”

3/21/11- Fixed increase errors in thumb gussets; the first two rounds of the gusset have changed.  The first round has only 1 increase, the second has two instead of the first increases being on the palm/back of hand.

Special Stitches

YO R: Bring yarn to the front by going over the top of the right needle and return to the back under the needle. On the next round, knit into the front of the yarn over.

YO L: Bring yarn to the front by going under the right needle and return to the back over the top of the needle. On the next round, knit into the back of the yarn over.

Cuff (Work the same for both gloves)

In White, CO 60 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: *K2, p2* to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 1 inch.

In Sky, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In White, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In Pool, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In White, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In Tidepool Heather, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In White, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

Repeat last round until cuff measures 2” from cast on.

Hand

Increase Round: K3, m1 *k6, m1* 9 times, k3. 70 sts

Work Right Hand Chart [Left Hand Chart] for 38 rounds, changing colors where indicated on chart and increasing stitches where indicated. It is helpful to place a stitch marker before the first increase and after the second increase to mark the thumb stitches.

Next Round: Work round 39 of chart for 36 [34] sts, slip all 19 thumb stitches to scrap yarn, CO 3 stitches in White using the backwards loop method over the gap. Continue round 39 of chart. 73 sts

Continue working chart until round 52 is completed, decreasing where indicated.

Top Ribbing (Work the same for both gloves)

Round 53 (not shown on chart): K3, *k2tog, k5* 9 times, k2tog, k2. 60 sts

Ribbing: *K2, p2* to the end of the round.

Repeat Ribbing until ribbing measures 1/2 inch.

Cast off loosely, cut yarn and weave in ends.

Thumb (Work the same for both gloves)

Return 19 thumb sts to needles, removing waste yarn.

Join White at the beginning of the thumb on the back of the hand. Knit across all thumb sts, working YOs as before. Pick up 5 sts across the gap (1 in each of the cast on stitches and 1 in either “corner”). 24 sts

Round 1: K18, k2tog, k3, k2tog (joining the first and last st of the round). 22 sts

Round 2: *K1, p1* to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 2 until thumb ribbing measures ¾”.

Cast off loosely, cut yarn and weave in ends.

Color Charts (click on charts for larger image)

 

 

Symbol Charts (click on charts for larger image)

 

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested, but they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.