A while back, I was asked by Suzan at Barking Dog Yarn to design some socks for her Ravelry group’s KAL (knitalong, for those not in the know). The design uses her Opposite’s Attract line of yarn, which I think is a really cool idea for colorways. I like so many of the colors she’s got. The yarn itself is super soft and very nice to knit with.
The end result of this collaboration was Bubble Stream. In keeping with the “opposites” theme, the socks feature a mirrored design, with a mock cable crossing the top of the foot in opposite directions. This means that the foot of the sock is worked differently for each sock- I was told that this helped some of the second sock syndrome! I’ll keep that in mind for future designs.
The mock cable ribbing on the cuff knits up fast, easy, and fun. While I made these socks longer to show off the colorway, I think they’d look great as ankle socks since the really interesting part is on the foot.
This pattern is pretty long, since each foot has different instructions. I recommend downloading the PDF instead of reading it below.
Errata
4/2/11: The symbol for m1 (M on the charts) was not in the key.
4/3/11: In the instructions for the heel turn for both socks, Row 3 should read “Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.” In the instructions for the heel turn for both socks, Row 4 should read “Sl 1, p7, ssk, k1, turn.”
4/14/11: Clarified the heel flap instructions on Row 1 and 2. Changed the optional shorter toe charts on the last page to the correct number of sts.
Bubble Stream
Download the PDF: Bubble Stream
- Finished Size: 7.5” midfoot circumference
- Yarn: Barking Dog Yarns Opposites Attract [100% Superwash merino] 400 yds/4 oz Color: Tristan and Isolde; 1 skein
- Needle: Size 1 (2.25mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
- Gauge: 40 sts x 58 rows = 4” in Chart B
- Notions: Scrap yarn or stitch holder, 3 stitch markers, tapestry needle
Special Stitches
Mock Cable: Insert right needle purlwise into third stitch on the left needle. Pull this stitch up and over the first two stitches and off the needle. Knit the first stitch on the left needle, yarn over, knit the second stitch. Mock cable completed.
m1: Insert left needle under the strand between the stitches from front to back and knit into the back of the new stitch
m1p: Insert left needle under the strand between the stitches from back to front and purl into the front of the new stitch
k tbl: knit through the back loop
sm: slip marker
Notes
The pattern begins by casting on in “Color 1.” Either miniskein of Opposites Attract can be Color 1; it is just a shorter way of saying “use the color that you’re not using for the leg of the sock.”
Charts for each sock are shown at the end of the instructions. Charts A and B are the same for both socks and are shown twice.
The sock measures about 7 inches long by the time Chart E/H is completed; the last part of the pattern has a suggestion for shortening the sock if needed. If you don’t need a shorter sock, then this advice can be ignored.
Right Sock
Cuff
CO 64 sts in Color 1. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. “Color 1” can be either color.
Work Rounds 1-4 of Chart A until work measures 1 inch from cast on, ending on Round 4. Chart A repeats 4 times around the sock.
Cut Color 1 and join Color 2.
Leg
Work Rounds 1-4 of Chart B until leg is desired length (shown 6 inches) ending on Round 4. Chart B repeats 4 times around the sock.
Heel
To center the heel flap and instep design, the first stitch of the round is knitted and placed on the heel needle as the first stitch of the heel.
Row 1 (RS): Knit the first st of the round, turn. This is the first heel stitch.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl 15, m1p, p15, turn. 1 st increased.
Heel will be worked back and forth over these 32 stitches. The heel stitches, including the stitch from Row 1, should be on one needle. Put the other 33 stitches on a spare needle, scrap yarn, or stitch holder as desired.
Row 3 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, p31, turn.
Row 5 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.
Repeat Rows 4-5 another 14 times, for a total of 32 rows (16 slipped stitches on each side of the heel flap) ending on Row 5.
Turn Heel
Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, p17, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, p7, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 5: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 6: Sl 1, k9, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 7: Sl 1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 8: Sl 1, k11, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 9: Sl 1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 10: Sl 1, k13, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 11: Sl 1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 12: Sl 1, k15, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 13: Sl 1, p16, p2tog, turn.
Row 14: Sl 1, k16, ssk, do not turn. 18 sts remain.
Gusset
Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap. Instep: K2, *p5, k3,* 3x, p5, k2. Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap, k7, k2tog. Mark this as the beginning of the round. The decrease takes care of the extra stitch that was increased on the heel flap. 82 sts.
The decreases for the gusset on the right side will consume instep stitches. The decreases for the gusset on the left side will consume the gusset stitches as normal. Chart C is worked once per round; it does not repeat.
K16, work next row of Chart C, knit to the end of the round.
Continue as above until all 18 rows of Chart C have been worked. 64 sts.
Foot
Chart D continues the crossover pattern from Chart C. Chart D is worked once per round; it does not repeat.
K15, work next row of Chart D, knit to the end of the round.
Work as above until all 44 rows of Chart D have been worked.
Chart E continues the crossover pattern. Chart E is worked on the left side of the instep; it does not repeat.
K37, work next row of Chart E, knit to the end of the round.
Continue as above until all 17 rows of Chart E have been worked.
Knit until foot is 1.5” shorter than desired length.
Toe
Cut Color 1 and join Color 2.
Set Up Round: K16, place marker, k32, place marker, k16.
Round 1: Knit to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before second marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round.
Round 2: Knit all stitches.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 until 24 stitches remain.
Graft remaining stitches together.
Weave in all ends and block if desired.
Charts are not listed in the order they’re worked; Charts C-E are arranged to show the overall pattern of the foot. Click on the charts to enlarge.
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| Chart E |
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Chart A |
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| Chart D |
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Chart B |
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| Chart C |
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Left Sock
Cuff
CO 64 sts in Color 2. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.
Work Rows 1-4 of Chart A until work measures 1 inch from cast on, ending on Row 4. Chart A repeats 4 times around the sock.
Cut Color 2 and join Color 1.
Leg
Work Rows 1-4 of Chart B until leg is desired length (shown 6 inches) ending on Row 4. Chart B repeats 4 times around the sock.
Heel
To center the heel flap and instep design, the first stitch of the round is knitted and placed on the heel needle as the first stitch of the heel.
Row 1 (RS): Knit the first st of the round, turn. This is the first heel stitch.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl 15, m1p, p15, turn. 1 st increased.
Heel will be worked back and forth over these 32 stitches. The heel stitches, including the stitch from Row 1, should be on one needle. Put the other 33 stitches on a spare needle, scrap yarn, or stitch holder as desired.
Row 3 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, p31, turn.
Row 5 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.
Repeat Rows 4-5 another 14 times, for a total of 32 rows (16 slipped stitches on each side of the heel flap) ending on Row 5.
Turn Heel
Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, p17, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 2 (RS): Sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 3: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, p7, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 5: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 6: Sl 1, k9, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 7: Sl 1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 8: Sl 1, k11, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 9: Sl 1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 10: Sl 1, k13, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 11: Sl 1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn.
Row 12: Sl 1, k15, ssk, k1, turn.
Row 13: Sl 1, p16, p2tog, turn.
Row 14: Sl 1, k16, ssk, do not turn. 18 sts remain.
Gusset
Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap, place marker. Instep: K2, *p5, k3,* 3x, p5, k2. Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap, k7, k2tog. Mark this as the beginning of the round. The decrease takes care of the extra stitch that was increased on the heel flap. 82 sts.
The decreases for the gusset on the left side will consume instep stitches. The decreases for the gusset on the right side will consume the gusset stitches as normal. Chart F is worked once per round; it does not repeat.
Knit to 3 sts before marker, work next row of Chart F, knit to the end of the round.
Continue as above until all 18 rows of Chart F have been worked. Remove marker. 64 sts.
Foot
Chart G continues the crossover pattern from Chart F. Chart G is worked once per round; it does not repeat.
K16, work next row of Chart G, knit to the end of the round.
Work as above until all 44 rows of Chart G have been worked.
Chart H continues the crossover pattern. Chart H is worked on the right side of the instep; it does not repeat.
K16, work Chart H, knit to the end of the round.
Continue as above until all 17 rows of Chart H have been worked.
Knit until foot is 1.5” shorter than desired length.
Toe
Cut Color 1 and join Color 2.
Set Up Round: K16, place marker, k32, place marker, k16.
Round 1: Knit to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to second marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round.
Round 2: Knit all stitches.
Repeat Rounds 1-2 until 24 stitches remain.
Graft remaining stitches together. Weave in all ends and block if desired.
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| Chart H |
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Chart A |
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| Chart G |
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Chart B |
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| Chart F |
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Tip!
The sock foot should measure about 7 inches long after Chart E/H are completed. The toe is 1.5 inches long, which means that the pattern as written will be no shorter than 8.5 inches. If a shorter sock is desired, some or all of Chart E/H can be worked at the same time as some of the toe decreases. Skip the increases on the chart and only work the decreases. The rest of the toe would be worked as normal This makes the sock about 1 inch shorter. Below is an example of this, where Chart E/H are worked entirely during the toe decreases.
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| Sample Toe 1 |
Sample Toe 2 |
Please Note: If you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein@gmail.com. Or you can contact me on Ravelry as CailynDragon.
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.
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