The Daily Skein

All the craft that’s fit to make.

Last Minute Gifts for Knitters December 8, 2011

Filed under: Knitting Projects,Musings,spinning — Cailyn @ 5:19 pm
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I feel slightly dirty.  I was on Facebook and I clicked on an ad.  And the ad was right, I did find lots of things to buy!  It was an ad for CafePress and it had a picture of a cartoony orange cat knitting.  Well, I was hooked and I clicked (making both CafePress and Facebook very happy).   There’s a lot of great knitting stuff on CafePress- not yarn or needles or notions, obviously, but totes and shirts and the all-important coffee mugs.  Here’s a few designs that I think should go on any knitter’s wishlist!  (Yes, they’re already on mine.)

 

“The Answers” to all those common questions in totes, shirts, etc

 

Similar theme, different questions.

 

Kitchener stitch instructions

 

Cute cat in tote and shirt form.  This is the one that did me in.

 

 

Instant Knitter buttons and shirts!  Also in Spinner!  (This shop’s got a button or shirt for just about everybody who loves coffee.)

 

Spinning button.  So true.

 

From Crazy Aunt Purl.

 

Not a fan of knitting cats?  How about a knitting penguin?  (also, penguin ninja)

 

What, why are you looking at me like that?

 

 

Shirts, etc, with the important math in life.  Or, the life cycle of yarn.

 

Just one more row… really!

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Shawl Swatch Watch June 9, 2011

Filed under: Knitting Projects — Cailyn @ 4:51 pm
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I just avoided spilling a full cup of coffee as I tripped over a power cable.  Miracle!

 

Also a miracle, I have finished (sort of) the swatch for my handspun shawl.  It was delayed by two full froggings, three partial froggings, a sudden spurt of spring cleaning, and a kayaking trip.

 

IMG_5122

 

The swatch is about half the number of stitches of the finished design but has all the right elements in it.  The bottom pattern is from Nancy Bush’s Knitted Lace of Estonia; the middle and upper pattern are from The Haapsalu Shawl.  The upper pattern (one of the numerous “paw” patterns) will be most of the shawl with garter borders.  I won’t be putting a traditional border around the whole shawl- I like the slightly modern look of a straight-edged shawl.  And I think knitting a border for a 60×20 inch shawl would kill me.  Literally.  I would keel over from sheer boredom just trying to pick up all the stitches for it!

 

IMG_5125  IMG_5126  IMG_5127

 

Here’s the problem:  I’m not sure I’m happy with the look of the thing.

 

I’m pretty happy with the general layout and patterns I chose (which wasn’t easy!)  I’m not entirely certain about the paw pattern, but I’m not going to revise the whole thing again.  The drape is lovely and the yarn is great.  But I’m not sure if it’s lacy enough.  Is it too… solid?  Not enough space between the strands of yarn?

 

As it stands, the swatch gives me about 6 stitches to the inch.  That should make the whole shawl about 14 inches wide.  I’m debating casting on with a set of size 5 or 6 needles for the actual shawl.  That should both make the shawl lacier and wider.  I’m not planning on re-swatching, though (yes, I live dangerously).  I’ve had enough of swatches!  I’m just not sure… part of the problem is that I don’t have a set of 5s or 6s.  If I like the way it looks now, I can start the shawl immediately.  But if I want to use bigger needles, I have to sneak out to the store, which isn’t really close by.

 

I can’t decide.

 

Bubble Stream May 17, 2011

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 1:19 pm
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000_0108 bw

 

A while back, I was asked by Suzan at Barking Dog Yarn to design some socks for her Ravelry group’s KAL (knitalong, for those not in the know).  The design uses her Opposite’s Attract line of yarn, which I think is a really cool idea for colorways.  I like so many of the colors she’s got.  The yarn itself is super soft and very nice to knit with.

 

The end result of this collaboration was Bubble Stream.  In keeping with the “opposites” theme, the socks feature a mirrored design, with a mock cable crossing the top of the foot in opposite directions.  This means that the foot of the sock is worked differently for each sock- I was told that this helped some of the second sock syndrome!  I’ll keep that in mind for future designs.

 

115_5531

 

The mock cable ribbing on the cuff knits up fast, easy, and fun.  While I made these socks longer to show off the colorway, I think they’d look great as ankle socks since the really interesting part is on the foot.

 

This pattern is pretty long, since each foot has different instructions.  I recommend downloading the PDF instead of reading it below.

 

115_5506  000_0114

 

Errata

4/2/11: The symbol for m1 (M on the charts) was not in the key. 

4/3/11: In the instructions for the heel turn for both socks, Row 3 should read “Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.”  In the instructions for the heel turn for both socks, Row 4 should read “Sl 1, p7, ssk, k1, turn.”

4/14/11: Clarified the heel flap instructions on Row 1 and 2.  Changed the optional shorter toe charts on the last page to the correct number of sts.

 

Bubble Stream

Download the PDF: Bubble Stream

  • Finished Size: 7.5” midfoot circumference
  • Yarn: Barking Dog Yarns Opposites Attract [100% Superwash merino] 400 yds/4 oz Color: Tristan and Isolde; 1 skein
  • Needle: Size 1 (2.25mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
  • Gauge: 40 sts x 58 rows = 4” in Chart B
  • Notions: Scrap yarn or stitch holder, 3 stitch markers, tapestry needle

 

Special Stitches

Mock Cable: Insert right needle purlwise into third stitch on the left needle. Pull this stitch up and over the first two stitches and off the needle. Knit the first stitch on the left needle, yarn over, knit the second stitch. Mock cable completed.

m1: Insert left needle under the strand between the stitches from front to back and knit into the back of the new stitch

m1p: Insert left needle under the strand between the stitches from back to front and purl into the front of the new stitch

k tbl: knit through the back loop

sm: slip marker

 

Notes

The pattern begins by casting on in “Color 1.” Either miniskein of Opposites Attract can be Color 1; it is just a shorter way of saying “use the color that you’re not using for the leg of the sock.”

Charts for each sock are shown at the end of the instructions.  Charts A and B are the same for both socks and are shown twice.

The sock measures about 7 inches long by the time Chart E/H is completed; the last part of the pattern has a suggestion for shortening the sock if needed. If you don’t need a shorter sock, then this advice can be ignored.

 

Right Sock

Cuff

CO 64 sts in Color 1. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. “Color 1” can be either color.

Work Rounds 1-4 of Chart A until work measures 1 inch from cast on, ending on Round 4.  Chart A repeats 4 times around the sock.

Cut Color 1 and join Color 2.

Leg

Work Rounds 1-4 of Chart B until leg is desired length (shown 6 inches) ending on Round 4. Chart B repeats 4 times around the sock.

Heel

To center the heel flap and instep design, the first stitch of the round is knitted and placed on the heel needle as the first stitch of the heel.

Row 1 (RS): Knit the first st of the round, turn. This is the first heel stitch.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl 15, m1p, p15, turn. 1 st increased.

Heel will be worked back and forth over these 32 stitches. The heel stitches, including the stitch from Row 1, should be on one needle. Put the other 33 stitches on a spare needle, scrap yarn, or stitch holder as desired.

Row 3 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, p31, turn.

Row 5 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.

Repeat Rows 4-5 another 14 times, for a total of 32 rows (16 slipped stitches on each side of the heel flap) ending on Row 5.

Turn Heel

Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, p17, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 2 (RS): Sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 3: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 4: Sl 1, p7, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 5: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 6: Sl 1, k9, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 7: Sl 1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 8: Sl 1, k11, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 9: Sl 1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 10: Sl 1, k13, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 11: Sl 1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 12: Sl 1, k15, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 13: Sl 1, p16, p2tog, turn.

Row 14: Sl 1, k16, ssk, do not turn. 18 sts remain.

Gusset

Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap. Instep: K2, *p5, k3,* 3x, p5, k2. Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap, k7, k2tog. Mark this as the beginning of the round. The decrease takes care of the extra stitch that was increased on the heel flap. 82 sts.

The decreases for the gusset on the right side will consume instep stitches. The decreases for the gusset on the left side will consume the gusset stitches as normal. Chart C is worked once per round; it does not repeat.

K16, work next row of Chart C, knit to the end of the round.

Continue as above until all 18 rows of Chart C have been worked. 64 sts.

Foot

Chart D continues the crossover pattern from Chart C. Chart D is worked once per round; it does not repeat.

K15, work next row of Chart D, knit to the end of the round.

Work as above until all 44 rows of Chart D have been worked.

Chart E continues the crossover pattern. Chart E is worked on the left side of the instep; it does not repeat.

K37, work next row of Chart E, knit to the end of the round.

Continue as above until all 17 rows of Chart E have been worked.

Knit until foot is 1.5” shorter than desired length.

Toe

Cut Color 1 and join Color 2.

Set Up Round: K16, place marker, k32, place marker, k16.

Round 1: Knit to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before second marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until 24 stitches remain.

Graft remaining stitches together. 

Weave in all ends and block if desired.

Key  Charts are not listed in the order they’re worked; Charts C-E are arranged to show the overall pattern of the foot.  Click on the charts to enlarge.

Sock 1 End   Ribbing
Chart E   Chart A
Sock 1 Foot   Leg
Chart D   Chart B
Sock 1 Gusset    
Chart C    

115_5523  000_0119

Left Sock

Cuff

CO 64 sts in Color 2. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work Rows 1-4 of Chart A until work measures 1 inch from cast on, ending on Row 4. Chart A repeats 4 times around the sock.

Cut Color 2 and join Color 1.

Leg

Work Rows 1-4 of Chart B until leg is desired length (shown 6 inches) ending on Row 4. Chart B repeats 4 times around the sock.

Heel

To center the heel flap and instep design, the first stitch of the round is knitted and placed on the heel needle as the first stitch of the heel.

Row 1 (RS): Knit the first st of the round, turn. This is the first heel stitch.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl 15, m1p, p15, turn. 1 st increased.

Heel will be worked back and forth over these 32 stitches. The heel stitches, including the stitch from Row 1, should be on one needle. Put the other 33 stitches on a spare needle, scrap yarn, or stitch holder as desired.

Row 3 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, p31, turn.

Row 5 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* 16x, turn.

Repeat Rows 4-5 another 14 times, for a total of 32 rows (16 slipped stitches on each side of the heel flap) ending on Row 5.

Turn Heel

Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, p17, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 2 (RS): Sl 1, k5, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 3: Sl 1, p6, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 4: Sl 1, p7, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 5: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 6: Sl 1, k9, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 7: Sl 1, p10, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 8: Sl 1, k11, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 9: Sl 1, p12, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 10: Sl 1, k13, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 11: Sl 1, p14, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 12: Sl 1, k15, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 13: Sl 1, p16, p2tog, turn.

Row 14: Sl 1, k16, ssk, do not turn.  18 sts remain.

Gusset

Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap, place marker. Instep: K2, *p5, k3,* 3x, p5, k2. Pick up and knit 16 sts along the heel flap, k7, k2tog. Mark this as the beginning of the round. The decrease takes care of the extra stitch that was increased on the heel flap. 82 sts.

The decreases for the gusset on the left side will consume instep stitches. The decreases for the gusset on the right side will consume the gusset stitches as normal. Chart F is worked once per round; it does not repeat.

Knit to 3 sts before marker, work next row of Chart F, knit to the end of the round.

Continue as above until all 18 rows of Chart F have been worked. Remove marker. 64 sts.

Foot

Chart G continues the crossover pattern from Chart F. Chart G is worked once per round; it does not repeat.

K16, work next row of Chart G, knit to the end of the round.

Work as above until all 44 rows of Chart G have been worked.

Chart H continues the crossover pattern. Chart H is worked on the right side of the instep; it does not repeat.

K16, work Chart H, knit to the end of the round.

Continue as above until all 17 rows of Chart H have been worked.

Knit until foot is 1.5” shorter than desired length.

Toe

Cut Color 1 and join Color 2.

Set Up Round: K16, place marker, k32, place marker, k16.

Round 1: Knit to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to second marker, k2tog, k1, sm, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: Knit all stitches.

Repeat Rounds 1-2 until 24 stitches remain.

Graft remaining stitches together. Weave in all ends and block if desired.

Key

Sock 2 End   Ribbing
Chart H   Chart A
Sock 2 Foot   Leg
Chart G   Chart B
Sock 2 Gusset    
Chart F    

Tip!

The sock foot should measure about 7 inches long after Chart E/H are completed. The toe is 1.5 inches long, which means that the pattern as written will be no shorter than 8.5 inches. If a shorter sock is desired, some or all of Chart E/H can be worked at the same time as some of the toe decreases. Skip the increases on the chart and only work the decreases. The rest of the toe would be worked as normal This makes the sock about 1 inch shorter. Below is an example of this, where Chart E/H are worked entirely during the toe decreases.

 

sample toe 1 sample toe 2
Sample Toe 1 Sample Toe 2

 

115_5503 2  115_5504

 

Please Note: If you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein@gmail.com.  Or you can contact me on Ravelry as CailynDragon.

 

image

This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

The Mystery of the Blue and Yellow Socks March 25, 2011

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 2:45 pm
Tags: , ,

I’ve been working really hard on a secret project.  I’m not sure why I was keeping it so secret.  Maybe I was worried about jinxing it.

 

Suzan, the owner of Barking Dog Yarns, asked me to design a pattern for her monthly Knit-A-Long (KAL).  This was around the end of February and I’m happy to say that the pattern is completely finished (bar the intro description which is always hard for me to write).  It will be the April KAL and you can join the group here on Ravelry if you want.  The pattern, Bubble Stream, will be just for the KAL until May when I’ll put it up here for free.

 

Suzan has a great set of colorways called “Opposites Attract.”  These are two coordinating 200-yard skeins that come as one colorway; each skein has the same colors but different ones are the main color or the accent in each.  Did that make sense?  I’m having trouble thinking, there’s a cat sprawled on my face.  I really love the idea behind Opposites Attract and I hope she keeps coming up with new colorways!  Here’s a picture (stolen from the BD website since I didn’t take my own) of the one that I used for Bubble Stream, Tristan & Isolde:

 

 

Here’s the teaser that I posted in the Barking Dog Ravelry group:

Are you ready for a top down sock with a mirrored design? How about a partially patterned gusset? Don’t you love textured ribbing? What will it take to get you into this sock? Unique decreases? We’ve got that! And, just for this month, I’ll even knock of 10% of the knitting time!

Ahem, enough of the sales pitch. I think you’ll enjoy this sock pattern; I certainly enjoyed making it! The socks use Opposites Attract yarn- mine are in Tristan & Isolde. The sock is stretchy and fits up to an 8” foot circumference.

I’ll release the whole pattern here on April 1st (no foolin’ I promise!) This is my first KAL; I’m very excited!

 

 

This is indeed the first KAL that I will be “running” or at least more actively involved in.  There have been many KALs using my patterns, but I haven’t been a part of them.  Here’s hoping it goes well!

 

Salmon Run March 12, 2011

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 11:38 pm
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I’ve got another pattern for sale up on Knit Picks!  This one uses one of their new yarns, Chroma.  Chroma is a fingering or worsted weight that transitions slowly from one color to another, like Noro or Mochi.  But much softer!

 

IMG_5014

 

My new pattern is Salmon Run.  Stupid name, you think?   A “salmon run” is the time when salmon swim back up the river that they were born in to reproduce. The rivers are choked with salmon during a run. The stitch pattern on these socks, made to wave with yarn overs and decreases, evokes the flowing river and leaping salmon, swimming past fishermen and bears to get to their birthplace.  The stitch pattern looks like salmon leaping in a river (at least it does if you squint).  And the socks are knit toe up- or “upstream,” if you will.  I love the strong vertical stitch pattern looks against the color changes of Chroma.

 

The wavy pattern (from my Russian book!) is made with yarn overs and decreases; they may look like cables, but they’re not.  The sock also have a gusset and slip stitch heel flap, like my Arthurian Anklets.  What they don’t have is ribbing.  The stitch pattern goes right to the end.

 

IMG_5010

 

The pattern has instructions for avoiding an ugly color change after the heel and for a stretchy sewn bind off, shown to be superior in this post.

 

IMG_5006   IMG_5009

 

I’m really happy with how these turned out.  I enjoyed working with Chroma- it’s soft and colorful and doesn’t split too much.  I’m even happy with the pictures, which you’ll notice were not taken outside as per usual.  I wanted to photograph the socks by the river, maybe even in the water and splashing a little.  I finished these socks just as a big snowstorm hit Seattle a few weeks ago, so I couldn’t take those pictures.  Then it poured rain for the next week.  When it was finally sunny, I went out to take pictures with Lowell… and just as we were setting up, it started to rain buckets.  I gave up at that point.  Lowell set up a lovely photo studio and we took pictures of the socks indoors.   I have carefully cropped out any cat paws that snuck into the pictures.  I can’t thank him enough for helping me get this done!!

 

Madrona Was Fun February 22, 2011

Filed under: Musings,spinning — Cailyn @ 11:23 pm
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As you may have guessed from my little ditty last Thursday, I spent some time at the Madrona Fiber Arts Winter Retreat.  I actually didn’t spend much time there, just most of Thursday.  You would think that I wouldn’t forget about a fiber festival all of one hour from my house, but I did.  I remembered it far too late to sign up for regular classes.  I thought I would just go down for the marketplace again, like I did last year, but then I noticed the mini-class list.  The mini-classes were an hour and half (as opposed to three or six hours) and they spanned all kinds of topics.  Most importantly, I was in time for registration.  I signed up for a mini-class on hand cards on Thursday afternoon. 

 

I arrived about two hours before my class.  I went straight to the marketplace, as any reasonable person would.  After all, some of those fibers would go fast!  I took a walk around, looking at everything (and I do mean everything!) before doing a second round to actually buy things.  It was a hard decision!

 

IMAG0439   IMAG0440

 

The fiber that opened the floodgates was this one, a merino/tencel blend.  It was buried under some silk blends, but the colors of this one grabbed me and wouldn’t let me go.  Seriously, it tried to eat my hand.  I love the lighter streaks of tencel in the wool.

115_5478  115_5482

 

Then I spent a long time looking at silk hankies (also known as mawata to avoid confusion) at the Blue Moon Fiber Arts booth, along with a 100% silk colorway that was gorgeous.  But ultimately, I decided that I preferred the colors at another booth. Mawata is made by soaking and stretching a silkworm cocoons in layers on a frame so that it looks a little like a handkerchief (hence the confusing name “silk hanky”).  You can spin from them or stretch them out and knit with them unspun or a million other things.  Recently, the Yarn Harlot wrote about knitting mittens out of unspun mawata.  I wasn’t the only one to think that this idea looked fun; silk hankies were the hot item this year!  I got 14 g (about half an ounce) of mawata for $5 at the Wolf Creek Wools booth.  Like most silk, the color is incredibly intense in person.

115_5483

 

I also bought some “Panda” merino/bamboo/nylon yarn in a nice spring blue, because well, why not?  I really like the yarns from Wolf Creek Wools.  I made a little shrug out of some merino/tencel of theirs that I bought at the Sock Summit in ‘09.

 

115_5485

 

Then, I was admiring the spindles at the Carolina Homespun booth- they had a great selection.  I’ve made no secret of the fact that I love Cascade Spindle Company spindles; I have four of them now, even if two are technically the same model.  I really want the Little Si spindle, not so much because I want to spin on it (although I bet it spins great) but because Little Si is only a few miles from my house.  I’m always on the lookout for it.  Long story short, Carolina Homespun didn’t have one, but they did have some other wonderful things.  I ended up getting this pretty “wristaff,” which isn’t from Cascade Spindle Co but from a woodturner in Canada.

 

115_5487  115_5488

 

After that, I thought I was done shopping.  Except that I had a $5 coupon for any vendor that you got for registering for a class.  With that coupon burning in my pocket, I was torn between some knitting needles, some undyed silk, or some fiber from Hood Canal YarnsLast year, I bought some alpaca/silk fiber from Hood Canal Yarns which I really enjoyed spinning, even if it did take me half a year to do so.  I couldn’t decide which fiber to get there,until I noticed that everything I had bought so far was a very specific blue.  So, of course I bought this lovely blue fiber.  To stick with the theme.

 

115_5477

 

The best part was, this fiber was just about $5 an ounce.  With the coupon, I basically got an ounce free!  3 oz of 75% Blue Faced Leicester and 25% silk.  Yummy.

 

Oh right, I also had a class!  I finished up shopping just in time to go to my class, be a little early, and chat with some of the other students.  The class I took was on using hand cards to make rolags and punis.  A puni is essentially the same thing as a rolag, but made smaller and denser and almost always with cotton.  Using hand cards looks so simple, but for some reason I just couldn’t get it.  All you do is brush one card across the other a few times, transfer the fiber to the other card, and repeat until you’re ready to roll.  Simple, see?  Why did it take me almost an hour to be able to do this thing that people have been doing for thousands of years?

 

115_5490

 

I really have no answer.  Except that I wasn’t the only one to have trouble, so I guess that makes me feel a little better.  I did eventually get it, which made me really happy because spinning from a true carded rolag is awesome.  And so fast.  I see much more woolen spinning in my future.  I can’t wait to try these rolags with my Russian spindle!  In the picture above is a merino rolag (blue) and a cotton/silk puni.

 

I love going to these fiber festivals.  I don’t usually go with anyone, unless Lowell tags along, because none of my friends are quite as obsessive as I am about these sorts of things.  But it doesn’t matter.  You can sit chat with anyone there, knowing that they share in your passion for fiber.  I had a woman sit with me while I was practicing my carding and we chatted about her alpacas and I showed her what I could of carding.  It’s wonderful, even for an introvert like me, to just be around all those people who don’t look at you funny when you talk about the sleeve construction of your Central Park Hoodie.

 

Next year, I’m really going to try to remember about the registration day.

 

Purl Cast On January 26, 2011

Filed under: knitting tutorials — Cailyn @ 12:38 pm
Tags: , , ,

It’s no secret that I love the long-tail cast on.  It’s a nice mix of firm and stretchy.  It doesn’t mutate into extra-long loops as you work the first row.  It’s pretty fast to do.

 

The long-tail cast on is essentially a cast on combined with a row of knitting, done at the same time.  That’s what gives it those wonderful properties.  That means that the long-tail should count as the first right side row of any work.  The long-tail cast on looks like a row of knit stitches, which is great if you’re working a piece of stockinette.  But what if you want your cast on to match the ribbing at the bottom of the sweater and are a relentless perfectionist?

 

If you can cast on and knit simultaneously, then you can cast on and purl simultaneously too.

 

Let’s review the knit long-tail a bit:

 

115_5404

Hold the working yarn (coming from the ball) over your thumb.  Hold the long tail over your index finger. (Or vice-versa.)  Let the loose ends drape down your palm and grasp them lightly in your other fingers.  This forms two loops, one over your thumb and one over your index finger.

 

115_5406  115_5407

The needle moves around and under the outer strand on the thumb and comes up in the middle of the loop.  Then the needle goes under the closest strand on the index finger, from outside moving inwards.  The strand is pulled through the loop and the resulting stitch is tightened up. 

 

115_5408  115_5409

The right side and wrong side of the cast on.

 

For the purl long-tail cast on, the set up is the same.  Hold the yarn as if to do a regular long-tail cast on.

 

115_5410  115_5413  115_5414

The needle moves around and under the outer strand on the index finger and comes up in the middle of the loop.  Then the needle goes under the closest strand on the thumb, from inside moving outwards.  The strand is pulled through the loop and the resulting purl stitch is tightened up. 

 

115_5415  115_5417

The right side and wrong side of the cast on.  See the purls?

 

115_5413  Snapshot 1 (1-25-2011 4-16 PM) (2)

Make sure that the needle goes under the strand from behind.  If the needle goes under from the front of the strand, the stitch will be twisted.

 

Look, a video!  There’s no sound, just real-time cast ons.  Exciting!