Remember, a few months back, I said I was knitting on some secret projects? Well, one of them was a project that I submitted to Knitty for the winter edition. My pattern made it to the final cut… and just didn’t quite make it past that. Oh well, next time maybe; I’ve got a few ideas. I’m thrilled that the pattern got so far in the process, really. This just means that I get to show the project to you now instead of having to wait until mid-December. It’s been killing me not to show these off! (And I still have the other designs I submitted to the Knitting-Pattern-a-Day Calendar that I can’t tell you about, oy.)
Lowell came to me one day and said that he’d really like fancy driving gloves to match his new WRX. Not one to back down from a challenge- er request, we scoured local yarn shops and the Internet for just the perfect shade of yarn in “Impreza blue” to match the car. He wanted something shiny and, in his words, “fast.” The yarns we decided on were not only an almost perfect color match; they’re also soft and luxurious. I love the natural shine of the silk and silk/wool blend. These gloves are knit with only a few rows of ribbing and then a mesh back adds some sportiness to the gloves. The first glove works across the back of the hand and then the palm; the left glove works across the palm and then the back of the hand. These gloves work up to the color work band shockingly fast. The larger size fits an average man’s hand. The smaller size is about a women’s medium. They’re pretty stretchy, but be careful to keep the floats loose during the color work. Personally, I think these gloves would look stunning in black and Ferrari red. (For more information about knitting glove fingers, check out Knitting In Color’s technique posts.)
WRX
Download the PDF: WRX
- Finished Size: Women’s medium/Men’s medium, circumference 7 1/2", length 5"; Men’s large, circumference 8 1/2", length 6"
- Needles: Size 2 (2.75mm) double-point needles
- Yarn: MC – Argosy Luxury Fibers Hanna Sport, Blue Mills (1 [1] skein) CC: Alchemy Yarns Silk Purse, 36F Lantern (1 [1] skein)
- Extras: Tapestry needle, two stitch markers, 3 6" pieces of smooth scrap yarn or stitch holders
- Gauge: 30 sts/42 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch
Errata: 10/26/10 – fixed some formatting, removed extra Round 8 from Left Glove
Special Stitches
M1R: Insert left needle tip into the strand between stitches from back to front and knit into the front of the loop.
M1L: Insert left needle tip into the strand between stitches from front to back and knit into the back of the loop.
Mesh Pattern:
Round 1: K1, *YO, ssk* over next 18 [20] sts, k1.
Round 2: Knit
Right Glove
Cuff
Using the Twisted German Cast On or the Long Tail Cast On, CO 40 [44] sts. Distribute evenly between the needles.
Join to begin working in the round, being careful not to twist.
Round 1: *K1, p1* to end.
Repeat Round 1 2 more times.
Round 4: In CC, knit 1 round. (This keeps the “purl dots” of the other color from showing and makes the stripe look smoother).
Round 5: *K1, p1* to end. Break CC.
Round 6: In MC, knit 1 round.
Round 7: *K1, p1* to end.
Hand and Thumb Gusset
Round 8: K20 [22], k1, M1L, k10, M1L, k1 to 1 st before the end of the round, M1L, k 1. 3 sts increased. 43 [47] sts.
Round 9: Work Round 1 of Mesh Pattern, then knit to the end of the round.
Round 10: Work Round 2 of Mesh Pattern, then knit to the end of the round.
Repeat Rounds 9-10 1 [2] more times.
Next round: Work next round of Mesh Pattern, place marker, M1R, k1, M1L, place marker, knit to the end of the round.
Work 2 rounds even, working the Mesh Pattern as established.
[Thumb increase round: Work Mesh Pattern to marker, slip marker, M1R, knit to next marker, M1L, slip marker, knit to the end of the round. 2 sts increased.
Work 2 rounds even, working the Mesh Pattern as established.]
Repeat instructions between brackets until there are 15 [19] sts between the markers, ending after the second even round.
Next round: K1, M1L, k18 [20], M1L, k1. Place all sts between the markers on scrap yarn or a stitch holder (markers can be removed now). CO 3 sts, rejoin round, and knit to the end of the round. 15 [19] sts removed, 5 sts increased. 48 [52] sts.
Knit 24 [27], k1, M1L, knit to 1 before the end of the round, M1l, k1. 2 sts increased. 50 [54] sts.
Size L only: Work 1 round even.
Swirl Color Work Band 
(click on the chart to enlarge)
Size S: K13, M1L, k26, M1L, k13, M1L. 2 sts increased. 52 sts.
Size L: K13, M1L, k13, M1L, k13, M1L, k13, M1L, k to end of round. 4 sts increased. 58 sts.
Both sizes: Join CC and work Right Swirl Chart for 15 rounds. The chart within the red lines repeats 3 times. Work the first 3[5] sts once, then the next 16 sts 3 times, then the last 3[5] sts once.
Next round: K1, k2tog, k20 [23], k2tog, k2, k2tog, k20 [23], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased. 48 [54] sts.
Next round: K38 [48]. Place next 10 [12] sts (the last 5 [6] and the first5 [6] of the round) on scrap yarn or a stitch holder for the pinky. CO 2 sts at the end of the round and rejoin in the round. 10 [12] sts removed, 2 sts increased. 40 [48] sts.
Knit 2 rounds.
Ring Finger
K6, place the next 28 [31] sts on scrap yarn or a stitch holder, CO 2 [3] sts, k8 [8]. 16 [17] sts.
Work 8 [10] rounds even.
Next round, S: *k1, p1* to the end.
Next round, L: *k1, p1* until 1 st before the end of the round, k1. (This will keep the edge from curling.)
Bind off sts using EZ’s Sewn Bind Off.
Middle Finger
Return 7 [7] sts from the back of the hand and 7 [7] sts from the palm on the needles.
Join yarn at the back of the hand and k7, CO 3 [2] sts, k7, pick up and knit 4 sts along the cast on edge of the ring finger. 21 [21] sts.
Next round: K1, k2tog, k11, k2tog, k4. 2 sts decreased. 19 sts.
Work 8 [10] rounds even.
Next round: *k1, p1* until 1 st before the end, k1.
Bind off sts using EZ’s Sewn Bind Off.
Index Finger
Return remaining sts to needles.
Join yarn at the back of the hand and k12 [15], pick up and knit 4 sts along the cast on edge of the middle finger. 18 [19] sts.
Next round: K1, k2tog, k8 [9], k2tog, k4. 2 sts decreased. 16 [17] sts.
Work 7 [9] rounds even.
Next round, S: *k1, p1* to the end.
Next round, L: *k1, p1* until 1 st before the end, k1.
Bind off sts using EZ’s Sewn Bind Off.
Pinky
Return pinky sts to needles.
Join yarn at the palm side, k10 [12], pick up and knit 4 sts along the cast on edge of the ring finger. 14 [17] sts.
Next round: K1, k2tog, k4 [7], k2tog, k4. 2 sts decreased. 12 [15] sts.
Work 6 [8] rounds even.
Next round: *k1, p1* until 1 st before the end, k1.
Bind off sts using EZ’s Sewn Bind Off.
Thumb
Return thumb sts to the needles.
Join yarn and k15 [19], pick up and knit 5 sts along the cast on edge of the hand. 20 [24] sts.
Next round: K2, *k2tog, k3 [4],* three times, k2tog, k1 [2]. 4 sts decreased. 16 [20 sts.]
Work 8 [10] rounds even.
Next round: *k1, p1* to the end.
Bind off sts using EZ’s Sewn Bind Off.
Left Glove
Work Cuff as for Right Glove.
Hand and Thumb Gusset
Round 8: K20 [22], k1, M1L, k10, M1L, k1 to 1 st before the end of the round, M1L, k 1. 3 sts increased. 43 [47] sts.
Round 8: K1, M1L, k8 [10], M1L, k8 [10] M1L, k26 [26]. 3 sts increased. 43 [47] sts.
Round 9: K 22 [25], then work Round 1 of Mesh Pattern.
Round 10: K22 [25], then work Round 2 of Mesh Pattern.
Repeat Rounds 9-10 1 [2] more times.
Next round: k21 [24], place marker, M1R, k1, M1L, place marker, work next round of Mesh Pattern.
Work 2 rounds even, working the Mesh Pattern as established.
[Thumb increase round: Work Mesh Pattern to marker, slip marker, M1R, knit to next marker, M1L, slip marker, knit to the end of the round.
Work 2 rounds even, working the Mesh Pattern as established.]
Repeat instructions between brackets until there are 15 [19] sts between the markers, ending after the second even round.
Next round: K1, M1L, k18 [20], M1L, k1. Place all sts between the markers on scrap yarn or a stitch holder (markers can be removed now). CO 3 sts, rejoin round, and knit to the end of the round. 15 [19] sts removed, 5 sts increased. 48 [52] sts.
Size L only: Work 1 round even.
Swirl Color Work Band (click on the chart above to enlarge)
Size S: K13, M1L, k26, M1L, k13, M1L. 2 sts increased. 52 sts.
Size L: K13, M1L, k13, M1L, k13, M1L, k13, M1L, k to end of round. 4 sts increased. 58 sts.
Both sizes: Join CC and work Left Swirl Chart for 15 rounds. The chart within the red lines repeats 3 times. Work the first 3[5] sts once, then the next 16 sts 3 times, then the last 3[5] sts once.
Next round: K1, k2tog, k20 [23], k2tog, k2, k2tog, k20 [23], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased. 48 [54] sts.
Next round: K38 [48]. Place next 10 [12] sts (the last 5 [6] and the first 5 [6] of the round) on scrap yarn or a stitch holder for the pinky. CO 2 sts at the end of the round and rejoin in the round. 10 [12] sts removed, 2 sts increased. 40 [48] sts.
Knit 2 rounds.
Next round: K38 [48]. Place next 10 [12] sts (the last 5 [6] and the first5 [6] of the round) on scrap yarn or a stitch holder for the pinky. CO 2 sts at the end of the round and rejoin in the round. 10 [12] sts removed, 2 sts increased. 40 [48] sts.
Knit 2 rounds.
Work the fingers and thumb for the left glove the same as for the right glove.
Finishing
Weave in all ends. Use tails and/or left over yarn to conceal any holes around the base of the fingers. Lightly steam block if desired.
Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested, but they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.
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Oh, those are just too cute! And useful!
Gloves to match the car: nice!
Are there any published errata for this pattern? I”m finding a few problems as I try this out for my husband. I’m not using the colorwork chart, but on the left glove, round 8 is repeated twice. The first is a cut and paste from the right glove, I believe that the second is the correct increase round.
Also on the left glove it states to repeat 9&10 2x, however on the right it was once for the small and twice for the large.
And, I’m guessing here, but I would assume that the thumb increases for the left glove are opposite the right (M1L first, knit, M1R), but the pattern has both gloves increasing the same.
This is as far as I am on glove #2, but I thought I’d ask the questions as I went.
Thanks
drkd
Thanks for pointing out those errors! I’ll put the first two down as typos and I apologize that my proof-reader didn’t catch them.
The increases for the left thumb gusset are correct, though. The increases on both gloves lean away from the thumb. If you hold up your hand, palm facing, you can see that an increase leaning away from your thumb has to lean to the right. If the left glove were worked the same as the right hand across the back towards the thumb and then across the palm, the first increase would be an M1L. But on the left glove, the palm-side of the thumb is worked first, not the back side. Does that make sense? It’s harder to explain in words than I thought!
Also (you may have figured this out already), if you’re not doing the color work, you don’t have to do the increases and decreases before and after the color work section. The increases are there to compensate for the lack of stretch in that section. If you’re working the gloves plain, you can just knit those 17 rounds or use the mesh pattern instead (17= increase round, 15 rounds of chart, decrease round).
Great mitts.