The Daily Skein

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Cabobble November 30, 2009

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 8:00 am
Tags: , , , ,

100_3885

 

Simple, cute mittens are always in style. Add a funny name and how can you lose? The name is a combination of “cable: and “bobble” inspired by the off-center cable which features small, easy bobbles for interest. The afterthought thumb is simple to knit and the shaping at the top of the mitten makes a very flat top. This is a great project for some luxury or handspun yarn.

 

The purple mittens shown were snatched up by my sister last year.  I really enjoyed working with this yarn; it was my first Debbie Bliss yarn if you can believe it.  The second pair is being knit in Twilley’s Freedom Spirit in Fire.  I love the subtle self-striping and the way it highlights the cables and bobbles. 

 

102_4823    100_3862     102_4832

 

Cabobble Mittens

Download the PDF Cabobble Mittens

  • Needle Size: Size 3 (3.25mm) DPNs
  • Yarn: Debbie Bliss Rialto DK Purple (100% Extrafine Merino) 2 balls, 116 yds/50g
  • Yardage: 190 –230 yards
  • Gauge: 26 sts x 38 sts= 4” in stockinette
  • Finished Size: Hand, 7”; Length, 8 5/8”
  • Notions: Cable needle, 6” smooth waste yarn, tapestry needle
Special Stitches

T5R: Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, then k3 from cable needle.

T5L: Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, k3, then k2 from cable needle.

C3B: Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, then p1 from cable needle.

C3F: Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p1, then k2 from cable needle.

MB (make bobble): Knit into the front and back of the next stitch twice, turn and p4, turn, sl 1, k3tog, psso. Bobble completed.

 

Cuff (same for both mittens)

CO 48 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: *K1, p1* repeat from * to * to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 2” long.

 

Right Hand

Increase Round: M1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, k13, m1, k2, m1, k20, m1, k2. 4 sts increased. 52 sts

Cable Rounds

Round 1: K1, p3, T5R, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: K1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 3: K1, p2, C3B, p1, C3F, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 4: K1, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: K1, p1, C3B, p1, MB, p1, C3F, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 6: K1, p1, k2, p5, k2, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 7: K1, p1, C3F, p3, C3B, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 8: K1, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 9: K1, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 10: K1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1-8 again.

Next round (counts as round 9): K1, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, k14; using waste yarn, k8, slip these sts back to left needle and knit again with working yarn; knit to the end of the round.

Starting with Round 10, continue Cable Rounds 1-10 4 more times, ending after Round 1.

Top Shaping

Round 1: *K2, k2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 39 sts

Round 2 and 4: Knit even.

Round 3: *K1, k2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 26 sts

Round 5: *K2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 13 sts

Round 6: *K2tog* repeat from * to * to last st of round, k1. 7 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

Left Hand

Increase Round: K1, m1, k12, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, m1, k2, m1, k20, m1, k2. 4 sts increased. 52 sts

Round 1: K14, p3, T5L, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: K14, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 3: K14, p2, C3B, p1, C3F, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 4: K14, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: K14, p1, C3B, p1, MB, p1, C3F, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 6: K14, p1, k2, p5, k2, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 7: K14, p1, C3F, p3, C3B, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 8: K14, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 9: K14, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 10: K14, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1-8 again.

Next round (counts as round 9): K14, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, k19; using waste yarn, k8, slip these sts back to left needle and knit again with working yarn.

Starting with Round 10, continue Cable Rounds 1-10 4 more times, ending after Round 1.

Top Shaping

Round 1: *K2, ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 39 sts

Round 2 and 4: Knit even.

Round 3: *K1, ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 26 sts

Round 5: *Ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 13 sts

Round 6: *Ssk* repeat from * to * to last st of round, k1. 7 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

Thumb (same for both mittens)

Carefully remove waste yarn from thumb and place live sts on DPNs. There will be 8 sts on the bottom and 7 sts on top. Join yarn and knit across the bottom 8 sts. Pick up 4 sts along the side of the opening, knit the 7 top sts, then pick up 4 sts along the other side. 23 sts

Knit 1 round.

Next Round: *K1, ssk* 7 times, k2. 16 sts

Knit even until thumb measures 2” or ¼” shorter than desired length.

Thumb Shaping

Round 1: K1, *k1, ssk* 5 times. 11 sts

Round 2: Knit even

Round 3: K1, *ssk* to the end of the round. 5 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

100_3872   102_4821

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Cruiser November 25, 2008

Filed under: Knitting Projects,patterns — Cailyn @ 12:05 am
Tags: , , , , , ,

Snoqualmie Point Mittens and Cailyn 014 [800x600]

 

I love these mittens. They’re easy and quick to make and they’re so incredibly soft and warm. I named the mittens after a ski run on Blackcomb Mountain, since we’re going to be wearing our mittens in the village (while drinking hot chocolate) after a long day of skiing. The cable in the center is nicely unisex, making this pattern a good addition to the "how could I forget so-and-so’s gift?" pattern pile. The cable is just enough to keep things interesting and, as an added bonus, easy to memorize! Another bonus: after the ribbing, there’s no more purling! These mittens can be scaled to any size and the pattern offers instructions in three sizes. Small will fit small women’s hands or large kids’ hands. Medium will fit most women and small men’s hands. Large will fit large women’s hands and medium men’s hands.

 

The instructions for left and right mittens are the same except for the placement of the thumb stitches. You can read more about the afterthought/peasant thumb here or EZ’s method here. The yarn used is a worsted weight, about 10 WPI. I highly recommend the Road to China yarn, but it is pretty expensive unless you can find it on sale. Try to find a replacement yarn with alpaca, wool, and silk (difficult, but worth it!). Wool for elasticity, alpaca for warmth, halo and weight, and silk for the depth of color and softness that it brings. Knit Picks Andean Silk or Classic Elite Portland Tweed might be good substitutions.

 

Edit 11-27-08: The cuffs of these mittens are kind of loose, so if you like snug mitten cuff, try going down a needle size or two. You can also cast on fewer stitches, but then you have to add more increases to the hand. I kind of like the looser cuff for mittens (but my glove cuffs must be snug!) but Lowell likes them snugger. I just want to save you the pain of having to rip out a half-done mitten just to re-knit the cuff.

Edit 12-01-08: The thumb instructions had some issues, so I’ve changed the instructions in the brackets to fix the problem.  The stitches for the thumb should be the first stitches of the second half of the right mitten. (Did that make sense?)  Left mitten thumb is fine.  Also, the small size instructions actually include instructions now.  Oy.  Can’t explain what happened there.  Proof-reading fail.  Sorry!  Errata/fixes are in purple.

Edit 11-16-09: Added “join in the round” to instructions.  Oops.

Edit 1-06-11: Removed “stitch holder” from the Extras; it’s not actually needed.  Added instructions for an “m1.”

 

Snoqualmie Point Mittens and Cailyn 001 Med

 

Cruiser

Download the PDF: Cruiser

  • Finished Size: Small (circumference 6.5”x length 5.5”) [Medium (7.5”x7”), Large (8.5”x7.75”)]
  • Needles: Size 6 (4.00 mm) double-point needles
  • Yarn: Road to China, Lapis; 2 [2, 3] skeins
  • Yardage: 130 [140, 170] yards
  • Gauge: 24 sts/24 rows = 4″ in stockinette stitch
  • Extras: Cable needle, tapestry needle, 6″ piece of smooth scrap yarn or stitch holder

Special Stitches

1×1 Rib: K1, p1 to the end of the round.

m1: Insert the tip of the left needle from front to back under the strand of yarn between the stitches  and knit into the back of this new stitch.

C4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front. K2, then k2 from cable needle.

C4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back. K2, then k2 from cable needle.

 

Cuff

CO 34 [40, 46] sts.  Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work 1×1 rib for 1.5 [1.75, 2.25] inches

Next round: K5 [5, 6], m1, *k8 [10, 11], m1* three times, k5 [5, 7]. 4 sts increased; 38 [44, 50] sts

 

Hand

Round 1: K2 [3, 5], [[C4F, k8, C4B, k2[3,5]], knit to the end of the round.

Round 2, 4, 6: Knit

Round 3: K4 [5,7], [[C4F, k4, C4B, k4[5,7]], knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: K6 [7,9], [[C4F, C4B, k6[7,9]], knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1-6 until the mitten measures 2.25 [2.5, 2.75] inches from the cuff, ending on any round.

Right Mitten: Next round, continuing the pattern as established, work to the end of the double brackets [[ ]] then knit the next 4 [5, 6] sts with the scrap yarn; slide scrap yarn sts back to the left needle and knit them again with the working yarn.

Left Mitten: Next round, continuing the pattern as established, work to the last 4 [5,6] sts of the round, then knit the next 4 [5,6] sts with the scrap yarn; slide scrap yarn sts back to the left needle and knit them again with the working yarn.

Continue working Rounds 1-6 as established until mitten is about 1.5 [2, 2.25] inches short of desired length (about 4 [5, 5.5] inches) not including cuff, trying to end on Round 5. If not, continue working the instructions in the double brackets [[ ]] if possible during the decreases.

 

Top Decreases

Round 1: K1, ssk, k13 [16, 19], k2tog, k2, ssk, k13 [16, 19], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 34 [40, 46] sts

Round 2, 4, 6: Knit

Round 3: K1, ssk, k11 [14, 17], k2tog, k2, ssk, k11 [14, 17], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 30 [36, 42] sts

Round 5: K1, ssk, k9 [12, 15], k2tog, k2, ssk, k9 [12,15], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 26 [32, 38] sts

Round 7: K1, ssk, k7 [10, 13], k2tog, k2, ssk, k7 [10, 13], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 22 [28, 34] sts

Round 8: K1, ssk, k5 [8, 11], k2tog, k2, ssk, k5 [8, 11], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 18 [24, 30] sts

Round 9: K1, ssk, k3 [6, 9], k2tog, k2, ssk, k3 [6, 9], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 14 [20 ,26] sts

Size M and L: Round 10: K1, ssk, k4 [7], k2tog, k2, ssk, k4 [7], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 16 [22] sts

Size L only: K1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 20 sts

Cut working yarn, leaving an 8” long tail and graft the remaining stitches together using Kitchener Stitch.

 

Thumb

Carefully remove scrap yarn from the thumb stitches, placing live stitches on two needles. There will be 4 [5, 6] stitches below the hole and 3 [4,5] above.

Join yarn at the the thumb on back of the hand. K4 [5, 6], pick up 3 [3, 4] sts along the gap, k3 [4, 5], pick up 3 [3, 4] sts along the second gap. 13, [15, 19] sts

Join in the round and knit until thumb measures .75 inches shorter than desired length.

Size S and L only: K2tog, knit to the end of the round. 1 st decreased; 12 [18] sts

Round 1: *K3 [3, 4], k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 9 [12, 15] sts

Round 2: *K1 [2, 3], k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 6 [9, 12] sts

Size S only: *K2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 3 sts

Size M and L: *K1 [1, 2], k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 6 [9] sts

Size M only: *K2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 3 sts

Size L only: *K1, k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 6 sts

Cut working yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread the tail through the remaining stitches and fasten off.

Weave in ends.

 

Snoqualmie Point Mittens and Cailyn 008 [800x600] 100_4011

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested, but they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Soft Yarn, Must Pet November 18, 2008

Filed under: Knitting Projects,Musings — Cailyn @ 5:49 pm
Tags: , , ,

Ok, I have found the single most luscious yarn in existence.  I was yarn shopping with my friend Kady the other day and as soon as I saw this yarn, I knew I had to have it. It’s one of those yarns that as soon as you pick it up, you’re lost.  You can’t put it down.  The color is perfect and the feel is divine.  This particular yarn is 65% baby alpaca, 15% silk, 10% camel, and 10% cashmere.  Yeah, it’s made out of the softest materials on Earth.  Spun into one beautiful, deadly skein.  Called the Road to China, the yarns are all dyed in jewel tones.  Each fiber in the yarn takes up the dye differently, so the color in incredibly rich and interesting.  The skein that I bought, Lapis, is mostly dusky blue with hints of green and purple.  But not “hints” like a variegated yarn, more like… this is hard to describe and the pictures don’t do it justice!

 100_3957 

 

Needless to say, this is not a cheap yarn.  It’s about $20 for 80 yards, which is way more per yarn than I’d normally pay.  But this was so special.  I thought I would make a hat out of it at first.  I got partway through the hat, too.  But you know, you don’t really feel a hat since it’s over your hair.  And this yarn needs to be felt. (Not to be confused with felted. I wouldn’t want to felt these!)  “Mittens!” I thought (or rather, exclaimed as Lowell was making us a snack).  This is the perfect yarn for mittens.  (I admit that I wasn’t thinking straight when I somehow got the idea that I could make the pair with one skein.  I blame it on the massive amount of popcorn I ate when we saw the new James Bond movie.)  Anyway, these are just about the perfect winter mittens.  Soft as anything, fairly lightweight because of the alpaca, and extremely warm because of the aforementioned alpaca and cashmere, and gorgeous to boot.

 

  100_3962 

 

I also love mittens because they’re so quick to make.  This Road to China yarn is a thick worsted weight and I used size 6 needles.  I knit the first one in a few hours.  I had to go back to the yarn store to buy another skein, which I wound today and I’m going to finish up the mittens tonight.  Lowell loves the pattern too and asked me to make him a pair.  Knitting with this yarn is such a joy, I think I can make these mittens forever and still be happy. (I won’t, but I could.)  Lowell’s mittens will be in Jade.  I ordered that and some Sandstone from Now and Zen Yarns.  They had a few skeins on sale (half off!!) so I had to buy a few extra.  This yarn isn’t too easy to track down online, but it can be done.  Head over to Now and Zen and see if they have any skeins left on sale!

 

I’ll have the pattern for the mittens up, in three sizes, when I finish the second mitten here.  Can’t think of a name for them except World’s Softest Mittens.