"When Loki and Thor traveled to Utgard, the citadel of the giants, they were told by the giant king that no one could stay in the citadel without proving themselves superior at a skill or craft.
Loki was the first to demonstrate his skill, saying that he could eat faster than anyone in the hall. He started at one end of the table and his challenger, the giant Logi, started at the other, eating towards the center. Loki ate everything, leaving only the bones behind. But Logi ate the bones and even the wooden trencher!
In the morning, the giant king revealed that he had tricked them. Logi, he told them, was fire itself and no one could consume faster than fire. Utgard vanished, along with the giants, and Thor and Loki returned home."
That is an extremely abridged version of one of my favorite Norse myths, where Thor and Loki go to fight some giants and end up humiliated by a clever king and some magic. The cable on this scarf was inspired by the interlocking designs on Viking armor and jewelry which is surrounded by double moss stitch borders. The cable starts and ends in a pair of points, like the tips of a flame. To do this, fewer stitches are cast on and then increases are worked to make the points.
This scarf was designed for my brother-in-law, and if you’d ever seen him and my husband eat a pile of barbeque, you’ll know the other reason this scarf is named Logi. This is a great pattern to knit for guys, especially when you tell them that the cable is Viking-related!
Using one skein (200 or so yards) of Malabrigo will produce a short but still respectable length scarf. In order to make the scarf wider and/or longer, add a second skein. To easily make this scarf wider, add pairs of stitches to each edge and work them in double moss stitch. For example, the first row for a wider scarf might read "Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice x3 , p12, *k1, p1* twice x3, k1, turn." This adds two stitches to each the right and left side.
The scarf will have a tendency to flip inwards around the cable as it’s worked. This is because of the two columns of purl stitches on either side of the cable. When the scarf is finished, steam block the scarf aggressively to relax the fibers and minimize the flipping. Wet blocking will work but steam blocking is more effective for combating the flip. Learn more about steam blocking versus wet blocking at TechKnitting, Knitty, and KnitSimple.
Edit 2/23/10: Renamed the increases so that the names in the instructions and the names in the key match.
Logi
Download the PDF: Logi
- Needles: One pair size 9 (5.5mm) straight needles or size needed to obtain gauge
- Yarn: Malabrigo Worsted [100% merino wool] 216 yds/3.5oz Color: Loro Barranquero; 1 skein
- Yardage: 200-250 yards (180-225m)
- Gauge: 26 sts x 21 rows = 4”(10cm) in pattern
- Finished Size: 4.5” x 52” (11.5cm x 132cm)
- Notions: Cable needle, tapestry needle
Special Stitches
LRinc: Insert right needle into the right leg of the knit stitch or the top of the purl stitch below the next stitch. Knit this new stitch.
LLinc: Insert left needle into the left leg of the knit stitch or the top of the purl stitch two rows below the stitch just worked. Knit this new stitch.
K2tog: Knit 2 together
SSK: Slip next 2 sts purlwise. Insert left needle into the front loops of the slipped stitches and knit them together.
P2tog: Purl 2 together
SSP: Slip next 2 sts knitwise. Return sts to left needle and p2tog through the back loops.
C4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the front. K2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.
C4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the back. K2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.
T4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the front. P2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.
T4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the back. K2 from left needle, then p2 from cable needle.
Scarf
CO 22 sts.
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice, p12, *k1, p1* twice, k1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.
Row 3 (RS): Sl 1, *k1, p1* twice, p12, *p1, k1* twice, p1, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.
Work Chart A for 8 rows. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right. 8 sts increased. 30 sts
Work Chart B until scarf is 2.5 inches less than desired length, ending on Row 16. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right.
Work Chart C for 10 rows. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right. 8 sts decreased. 22 sts
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, *k1, p1* twice, p12, *p1, k1* twice, p1, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.
Row 3 (RS): Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice, p12, *k1, p1* twice, k1, turn.
Row 4 (WS): Bind off all sts knitwise.
Finishing: Weave in ends. Steam block to relax the fiber’s tendency to flip inwards at the edge of the cable. Steam blocking will lessen the flip more than wet blocking.
Click on charts for bigger image, or download the PDF above.
Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested, but they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein@gmail.com.
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.
I love the integration of Norse mythology into your knitting work, Laura. This looks awesome! I always loved the Norse tale of Loki and Thor tricking a giant by dressing up Thor as Freya.
ooooooooooo….pretty!
Lovely scarf!! Thank you for sharing the pattern, it’s fab!!
I just love the Norse tale and how you incorporated into a beautiful scarf! Cables are so amazing…I had to ga back a gaze at that scarf again, just beautiful! thanks for sharing.
Forgive me because this might be a dumb question, but your pattern states that for the second row you should work stitches as presented; so do I slip two stitches for that row or its it supposed to be a different stitch?
Really no matter if someone doesn’t understand after
that its up to other viewers that they will help, so here it takes
place.
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