The Daily Skein

All the craft that’s fit to make.

Project Progress April 14, 2009

Filed under: Knitting Projects,Musings — Cailyn @ 2:25 pm
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I just looked over at my “Project Progress” widget.  Yikes!  How did I end up with so many projects?!  Let’s see, I’ve got The Cardigan, which has stalled out a bit.  I haven’t really touched it in a while.  I’ve been telling myself that it’s because I have more important things to work on, but I fear that I might be getting bored.  Maybe I’m just not in the mood to knit so much stockinette right now.  The cardigan measures a whole seven inches.  That’s a lot more inches that I need to knit.  But I shall conquer it!… just not yet.

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Next on the list is a pair of socks knit from Cherry Tree Hill’s Sockittome in the Loden colorway.  These socks are destined for a submission to a publication, so I can’t show you more than the yarn.  The yarn is a little stiff but I think it’ll soften up wonderfully after being washed.  It’s got good stitch definition and cables nicely.  I like it a lot and I think I’ll be adding Sockittome as a solid sock yarn to my yarn quiver.   As far as project progress, I just finished the gusset on the second sock, so not far to go on these!

 

102_4379The sock blank socks are the pure stockinette socks that I’ve been knitting since my trip to Virginia.  Top-down, short-row heel, standard toe.  They’re a great project for keeping the hands busy without paying attention.  I’m not exactly happy with the way the colors turned out.  I’m almost finished with the first sock- just have the toe left to do.  These socks are low on the priority list, really more of a back-up project.

 

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Norman’s scarf is a project that my father-in-law requested while we were at Village Wools.  Sadly, this is the best picture of the scarf but not the best picture of the two of us.  But this is proof that even layman can’t go into a yarn store without being inspired!  He picked out three colors of Mirasol Sulka, which is a luxurious blend of silk, alpaca and merino.  Really lovely to work with, especially in garter stitch.  You might recognize the scarf as a non-variegated version of the Multidirectional Scarf.  First I had to learn a little about modular knitting and then I planned out the color changes for the intarsia.  I’ll be putting up a tutorial for working the Mulitdirectional Scarf with intarsia in the next few days.  Now it’s just a matter of knitting the rest of the scarf.  What I’ve got here is about twelve inches on the long side (but only seven on the short 102_4375side, shhh).  I’ve been trying to keep the scarf cat-hair free, which means that it stays in the cat-free guest room.  It works up pretty fast, so I’m hoping that I’ll have it finished soon!

 

The Shibui Knits socks will be the next pattern that I publish on the blog.  Hopefully.  If nothing goes wrong.  I finished sketching (er, imagining, I can’t really sketch) the socks last night but I have to wait until my new needles get here before starting them.  I tried swatching the yarn with size 1s (2.25mm) and 2s (2.75mm) and neither was quite right.  So I ordered some 1.5s (2.5mm) needles which should be here soon.  But for now, the socks are just in my imagination and my widget.

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Oh yeah, I’ve also got a pair of socks planned using the Sanguine Gryphon’s Kypria.   But I think they’re also going to be a submission, so you only get to see the yarn again!  I have high hopes for this yarn, it seems really yummy so far!

 

So yeah, I’d better get back to knitting!

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Honeymoon Over February 6, 2009

Filed under: Knitting Projects — Cailyn @ 8:20 pm
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Well, that lasted a long time.

 

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Seriously, cardigan?  Just ten rounds in?  That’s when you want to start fighting? 

 

Here’s what happened.  I cast on 301 stitches.  And I joined in the round, being very, very careful not to twist.  I checked three times.  No twist at any time.  Happy and content, I proceeded to work my way around.  Now, keep in mind that there was no twist in the cast on row, I swear.  However, after Round Ten, I noticed a distinct turn and a half in my knitting.  You can imagine my shock, especially having been so careful as to check multiple times before and after joining in the round.

 

There was nothing for it.  I had to rip the whole thing out.  Oh, it was mad about it.  It threw a hissy-fit about being frogged; tangling, sticking together, trying to grow extra ends to confuse me.  It took me almost an hour to untangle and re-ball that yarn.  Grrrrr.

 

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This does not bode particularly well for the rest of the project.  Especially since when I cast on again and knit a few rows, I had another twist!  What is going on here?!  Is there no way to join without twisting in this mixed up world?  How many times do I have to check the cast on to make sure that it’s not twisted? 

 

I’m warning you, cardigan.  You’d better start knitting straight or I’ll felt you into nothingness, superwash or not.

 

Self-Striping Yarn Dyeing December 1, 2008

Filed under: knitting tutorials,Tutorials — Cailyn @ 11:26 pm
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I’m fascinated by self-striping yarns, but I don’t like knitting straight stockinette stitch much.  I also rarely find a self-striping yarn that I like on the market.  I keep trying to get ahold of some Twisted Fiber yarn, specifically Angst in Kabaam, but I never get there before they sell out.  I just realized the other day that maybe I should sign up for their newsletter to avoid this problem in the future.  Anyway, I have no self-striping yarn or inclination to use it.

 

Except that I am going to be traveling and there’s something very handy about having a simple sock on the needles to keep the hands busy while chatting with people or just for therapy.  Of course, I’ll be bringing other projects because there’s no way I’m working on a “simple sock” on the 5-hour plane ride!  But I’ll need a project to work on during coffee trips with my dad and after dinner chats with my mom and maybe to work on while hanging out late at night with my sisters (bad lighting + after midnight = bad for charts).

 

I’m going to dye my own self-striping yarn.  And I’m going to show you how to do it too!

 

If you’ve never dyed your own yarn before, you’re missing out.  It’s not something I want to do all the time, but it’s fun occasionally and especially with some friends.   I like to use food coloring dying methods instead of chemical dyes because, well, it’s so much easier to clean up!  And cheap and easy to find the supplies.  I suggest reading up on the basic technique in these Knitty articles: Kool Aid Dyeing; Food Color Dyeing.  Kady and I have dyed together two different times.  The first time we both did the cold pour method.  The second time I did the hot pour and Kady stuck with the cold pour.  I dyed some Cascade Superwash with the dip-dye method by myself. All had pretty good results!  There’s a lot of set up to dye self-striping yarn, but the results are worth it.

 

Self-Striping Yarn Tutorial

Materials

  • Enough wool yarn to make your desired project, in this case 420 yards undyed superwash wool
  • Needles for project, in this case Size 1 (2.25mm) DPNs
  • Yardstick/ruler/tape measure
  • Space to wind a long skein of yarn
  • Light colored, smooth waste yarn to tie skein
  • Food coloring/Kool-Aid/chemical dyes
  • Vinegar
  • Pots, measuring spoons, stove

 

Swatch 1

First, as with any knitting, we have to swatch.  Pick your yarn, in this case Knit Picks Undyed Essential, and your needles, in this case Size 1 (2.25mm) and knit a swatch.  If you’ve knit a plain sock with this yarn/needles before, you can skip this swatch.  Figure out your stitches per inch (and rows, if you want).  Multiply your sts/inch by the circumference of your ankle or middle of your foot.  For me, that’s 8 x 9″ = 72 sts.  Socks have negative ease so that they cling, so take that number and multiply it by 0.9.  (That’s an easy way to subtract 10%.)  For me, that’s 72 x 0.9 = 64.8.  I’ll round that down to 64 stitches.

Swatch 2

Cast the number of stitches from the end of Swatch 1 (for me, that’s 64 sts).  Join in the round.  Knit 1 round.  Using a permanent marker, mark the first stitch of the second row.  (You can see I’m swatching with Essential Tuscany, instead of the Undyed. Same yarn, just a different color.)  Then knit 2-8 rounds.  I knit 8 rounds, I’m not really sure why.  At the end of the last round, mark the last stitch.  I marked the yarn close to the last stitch instead.  (Advice: be careful not to get Sharpie on your needles.  Let the marked yarn dry about 10 seconds before knitting with it, it’ll bleed Sharpie on the needles.)

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Unravel and Measure

Unravel Swatch 2.  Find the two marks and line them up.  Trim off the cast on/round 1 yarn if you want.  Fold the yarn between the marks into as many rounds as you knit.  I knit 8 rounds, so I folded the yarn between the marks into eighths.  If you only knit 2 rounds, just line up the marks.  If you knit 4 rounds, fold the yarn in half once to make fourths.

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Lay the yarn against a yard stick or ruler and measure.  Don’t worry if the yarn isn’t completely straight.  This project involves a lot of math but isn’t an exact science.  This tells you how many inches it takes to knit one round of your sock.  It takes me about 24″ of yarn to knit one round of my 64 stitch sock.

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Figuring Out the Stripes

I’ll leave it up to you to figure out what colors you’d like to use and how many and thick you’d like your stripes.  I’m going to use a dusky green and deep violet (hopefully) as well as leaving some of the yarn undyed/cream.  I have decided to have 3 rounds of green, then 3 rounds of cream, then 2 rounds of violet, then 2 rounds of cream again.  That means I need 72″ of green, 72″ of cream, 48″ of violet, and 48″ of cream in each stripe repeat. (3 rounds x 24″ per round = 72″; 2 rounds x 24″ per round = 48″)

yarn chart

Adding those lengths up, I’m going to need to make my skein 240″ around. 

 

Re-skeining the Yarn

I took the skein from Knit Picks and balled it up on my swift. Ask me about the time that I tried to re-skein directly from the Knit Picks skein.  Go ahead, ask me about the 4 hours I spent untangling the yarn.  I dare you.

 

Measure out a track using whatever’s at hand that measures the desired length of the skein, in this case 240″.  I used two chairs, 19″ wide, and placed them a little under 8.5 ft apart, making a 240″ circle.  (240″ – 19″ – 19″ = 202″; 202″/2 = 101″; 101″/12″ = 8.4 ft)  Remember that the yarn is going in a circle when planning the track.  (I don’t know why the pictures all turned out so blurry… next time I do this, I’ll take better pictures!)

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Using the light colored scrap yarn (dark colors will bleed; I used some left over Mist Palette) tie the skein in as many places as needed.  Wrap the ties loosely when tying; if you tie them too tightly, the dye won’t absorb the same as in other spots.  I’m paranoid about my yarn getting tangled, so I tied the yarn in 8 places.  I didn’t think about taking pictures though; the light gray yarn doesn’t show up in the pictures very well!

Using a different color yarn and the same technique, mark the color segments on your skein.  I was stupid and used the Mist for the whole thing.  I got very confused later on.  Trust me, use a different color yarn for each color segment!  This is how I marked my skein, measuring along the yarn and tying markers as needed.  Tie your color markers loosely, but not so loosely that they’ll slide around.  I might have tied my markers a little too loose.  Oh well.

Yarn Diagram    100_3986

 

Soak the Yarn

Soak the yarn in a cold water bath with a 1/4 c (60 ml) of vinegar for a few hours or overnight. (Remove from your skein track, obviously.)  I don’t know if this is completely required, but I do it every time anyway.

 

Ready the Dyes

Mix the dyes as needed; I refer to this article in Knitty when mixing up my dyes.  I used Wilton’s Juniper Green and Violet for this skein.  I dissolved the dyes (quite a bit of dye… more than I needed, I think) in big pots of water and brought to a simmer.

 

Dyeing (Finally!)

Drain the yarn and squeeze lightly to get rid of the excess water.  Find your color segment markers and put the yarn in the right pots based on that.  You can see my undyed/cream sections are carefully held up and out of the way by the strategically placed pot handles.  If you had more colors, obviously the yarn would be in more pots or jars, etc.

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Let the yarn soak until the color is just right.  I think I left the green in a little too long, but I’m really happy with the purple.

 

Carefully remove the yarn (it’s hot!! Use tongs!) and rinse in cold water.  The purple didn’t bleed at all, but the green did quite a bit (probably because I put too much dye into the pot) so keep the color segments separate until the rinsing is complete!

 

Squeeze the yarn gently to remove the excess water.  You can hang the skein up somewhere to dry, or you can use my favorite cheat.  If your dryer has a shoe/sweater rack, stick the yarn on that and set on med/low heat!  Only takes about an hour instead of the hours it could take yarn to dry.  And it’s safe from children and pets, which is a nice plus.

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Re-skeining Part 2

Put your dry yarn back on the skeining track from earlier (or anything similar that will keep the skein from tangling.)  Remove all the ties and re-skein the yarn into something that will fit on your swift (I don’t have a niddy-noddy, so I used a piece of cardboard) or wind into a ball directly.  Admire the pretty new yarn!

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Oh yeah, I saved some of the undyed yarn and made a little mini-skein to dye at the same time for coordinating cuffs/heels/toes.

 

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Check it out, stripes!! (As you can tell by the lack of ribbing, this is just a test swatch, not the actual sock.)  Tip: Start your project at the beginning of a color segment (this swatch starts halfway between cream and green) so that the stripes line up correctly.  I’m so excited to knit these socks!

 

Cruiser November 25, 2008

Filed under: Knitting Projects,patterns — Cailyn @ 12:05 am
Tags: , , , , , ,

Snoqualmie Point Mittens and Cailyn 014 [800x600]

 

I love these mittens. They’re easy and quick to make and they’re so incredibly soft and warm. I named the mittens after a ski run on Blackcomb Mountain, since we’re going to be wearing our mittens in the village (while drinking hot chocolate) after a long day of skiing. The cable in the center is nicely unisex, making this pattern a good addition to the "how could I forget so-and-so’s gift?" pattern pile. The cable is just enough to keep things interesting and, as an added bonus, easy to memorize! Another bonus: after the ribbing, there’s no more purling! These mittens can be scaled to any size and the pattern offers instructions in three sizes. Small will fit small women’s hands or large kids’ hands. Medium will fit most women and small men’s hands. Large will fit large women’s hands and medium men’s hands.

 

The instructions for left and right mittens are the same except for the placement of the thumb stitches. You can read more about the afterthought/peasant thumb here or EZ’s method here. The yarn used is a worsted weight, about 10 WPI. I highly recommend the Road to China yarn, but it is pretty expensive unless you can find it on sale. Try to find a replacement yarn with alpaca, wool, and silk (difficult, but worth it!). Wool for elasticity, alpaca for warmth, halo and weight, and silk for the depth of color and softness that it brings. Knit Picks Andean Silk or Classic Elite Portland Tweed might be good substitutions.

 

Edit 11-27-08: The cuffs of these mittens are kind of loose, so if you like snug mitten cuff, try going down a needle size or two. You can also cast on fewer stitches, but then you have to add more increases to the hand. I kind of like the looser cuff for mittens (but my glove cuffs must be snug!) but Lowell likes them snugger. I just want to save you the pain of having to rip out a half-done mitten just to re-knit the cuff.

Edit 12-01-08: The thumb instructions had some issues, so I’ve changed the instructions in the brackets to fix the problem.  The stitches for the thumb should be the first stitches of the second half of the right mitten. (Did that make sense?)  Left mitten thumb is fine.  Also, the small size instructions actually include instructions now.  Oy.  Can’t explain what happened there.  Proof-reading fail.  Sorry!  Errata/fixes are in purple.

Edit 11-16-09: Added “join in the round” to instructions.  Oops.

Edit 1-06-11: Removed “stitch holder” from the Extras; it’s not actually needed.  Added instructions for an “m1.”

 

Snoqualmie Point Mittens and Cailyn 001 Med

 

Cruiser

Download the PDF: Cruiser

  • Finished Size: Small (circumference 6.5”x length 5.5”) [Medium (7.5”x7”), Large (8.5”x7.75”)]
  • Needles: Size 6 (4.00 mm) double-point needles
  • Yarn: Road to China, Lapis; 2 [2, 3] skeins
  • Yardage: 130 [140, 170] yards
  • Gauge: 24 sts/24 rows = 4″ in stockinette stitch
  • Extras: Cable needle, tapestry needle, 6″ piece of smooth scrap yarn or stitch holder

Special Stitches

1×1 Rib: K1, p1 to the end of the round.

m1: Insert the tip of the left needle from front to back under the strand of yarn between the stitches  and knit into the back of this new stitch.

C4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front. K2, then k2 from cable needle.

C4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back. K2, then k2 from cable needle.

 

Cuff

CO 34 [40, 46] sts.  Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work 1×1 rib for 1.5 [1.75, 2.25] inches

Next round: K5 [5, 6], m1, *k8 [10, 11], m1* three times, k5 [5, 7]. 4 sts increased; 38 [44, 50] sts

 

Hand

Round 1: K2 [3, 5], [[C4F, k8, C4B, k2[3,5]], knit to the end of the round.

Round 2, 4, 6: Knit

Round 3: K4 [5,7], [[C4F, k4, C4B, k4[5,7]], knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: K6 [7,9], [[C4F, C4B, k6[7,9]], knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1-6 until the mitten measures 2.25 [2.5, 2.75] inches from the cuff, ending on any round.

Right Mitten: Next round, continuing the pattern as established, work to the end of the double brackets [[ ]] then knit the next 4 [5, 6] sts with the scrap yarn; slide scrap yarn sts back to the left needle and knit them again with the working yarn.

Left Mitten: Next round, continuing the pattern as established, work to the last 4 [5,6] sts of the round, then knit the next 4 [5,6] sts with the scrap yarn; slide scrap yarn sts back to the left needle and knit them again with the working yarn.

Continue working Rounds 1-6 as established until mitten is about 1.5 [2, 2.25] inches short of desired length (about 4 [5, 5.5] inches) not including cuff, trying to end on Round 5. If not, continue working the instructions in the double brackets [[ ]] if possible during the decreases.

 

Top Decreases

Round 1: K1, ssk, k13 [16, 19], k2tog, k2, ssk, k13 [16, 19], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 34 [40, 46] sts

Round 2, 4, 6: Knit

Round 3: K1, ssk, k11 [14, 17], k2tog, k2, ssk, k11 [14, 17], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 30 [36, 42] sts

Round 5: K1, ssk, k9 [12, 15], k2tog, k2, ssk, k9 [12,15], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 26 [32, 38] sts

Round 7: K1, ssk, k7 [10, 13], k2tog, k2, ssk, k7 [10, 13], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 22 [28, 34] sts

Round 8: K1, ssk, k5 [8, 11], k2tog, k2, ssk, k5 [8, 11], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 18 [24, 30] sts

Round 9: K1, ssk, k3 [6, 9], k2tog, k2, ssk, k3 [6, 9], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 14 [20 ,26] sts

Size M and L: Round 10: K1, ssk, k4 [7], k2tog, k2, ssk, k4 [7], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 16 [22] sts

Size L only: K1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 20 sts

Cut working yarn, leaving an 8” long tail and graft the remaining stitches together using Kitchener Stitch.

 

Thumb

Carefully remove scrap yarn from the thumb stitches, placing live stitches on two needles. There will be 4 [5, 6] stitches below the hole and 3 [4,5] above.

Join yarn at the the thumb on back of the hand. K4 [5, 6], pick up 3 [3, 4] sts along the gap, k3 [4, 5], pick up 3 [3, 4] sts along the second gap. 13, [15, 19] sts

Join in the round and knit until thumb measures .75 inches shorter than desired length.

Size S and L only: K2tog, knit to the end of the round. 1 st decreased; 12 [18] sts

Round 1: *K3 [3, 4], k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 9 [12, 15] sts

Round 2: *K1 [2, 3], k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 6 [9, 12] sts

Size S only: *K2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 3 sts

Size M and L: *K1 [1, 2], k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 6 [9] sts

Size M only: *K2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 3 sts

Size L only: *K1, k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 6 sts

Cut working yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread the tail through the remaining stitches and fasten off.

Weave in ends.

 

Snoqualmie Point Mittens and Cailyn 008 [800x600] 100_4011

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested, but they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Bamboo Blue Pretty! August 28, 2008

Filed under: Musings — Cailyn @ 8:39 pm
Tags: , , , ,

I’ve been neck deep in a secret project for the last few days.  I mentioned a while ago that I was trying to design something manly for Knitty’s winter issue?  Well, that project fell over, hit its head, and suffered a major stroke.  But then Lowell and I (mostly Lowell) came up with another idea and since then, it’s been a whirl of yarn shopping, knitting, frogging, knitting, fitting, and weaving in ends.  Hopefully the sun will come out long enough in the next two days that I’ll actually be able to take pictures of the project before the deadline hits.  Man, wouldn’t that be annoying; I get the whole project done and written up… and then can’t photograph them.  Well, here’s hoping for some sun tomorrow.

 

On my quest to find the perfect yarn, though, I’ve run across a wonderful yarn seller!  Argosy Luxury Fibers. I ordered 2 skeins of secret yarn (Hanna Sport, Blue Mills) and 2 skeins of Solace, Starry Night.  *drool*  This yarn is so soft that I just want to cuddle with it all the time.  I had this horrible vision of a delicately cabled blanket made out of this stuff- you know, the kind of project that would be so stunning (and so stunningly expensive) that the very act of making it would make the rest of life meaningless.  I quickly shoved that vision into a back closet in my brain and stacked several mental crates in front of it in hopes that it won’t come back out to haunt my dreams.

 

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Hanna Sport, Blue Mills

Solace, Starry Night

 

Her pictures are much better than mine (click on her thumbnails for a gorgeous close up of the yarns.)  I waited all day to take these pictures in the sun, but as previously stated, the sun did not appear.  The colors are pretty accurate, but you miss the beautiful shine.

 

So, anyway, I ordered these yarns.  And as soon as the box arrived, I tore it open to discover my 4 beautiful skeins… and 2 extra skeins. My first thought was, “Wait, did I order yarn and totally forget about it?” Then I saw the note from the owner.  Melissa included the yarn for free!  I literally squealed aloud with delight.  (Gave the cats a good fright, it did.)

 

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I was so excited that I even called Lowell at work and babbled something like, “Oh my god, free, bamboo, blue, pretty!” and then hung up.  The yarn she sent is Bonsai Bamboo in Teal. I am already head over heels in love with Hanna Sport, which I used for the secret project.  I’ve got about a skein and a third left, too, which I’m crazy excited about.  It’s so soft and silky and lightweight, you just have to feel it to believe it.  I think the Solace is next on the project block, but I think a pair of gloves made out of the Bonsai is soon in my future.  Let me tell you, the combination of great yarn with such a nice gift… Let’s just say, I’m putting in another order in a few days for some Christmas knitting supplies.  I’m not sure if the stars have aligned to shine a bright and inspiring light into my life in the form of silk blend yarns… or if this is some sort of conspiracy by my credit card company to get me to run up mountains of debt.

 

Honestly, I’m not sure I care which one it is.

 

Wool Mice and Things May 20, 2008

Filed under: Knitting Projects,patterns — Cailyn @ 10:51 pm
Tags: , , , , , ,

Things are finally back to normal around here. There was much visiting of family and fun, although very little knitting. Before disappearing into the strange world of Noyarnia, I mentioned a felted mouse toy that I was making. Well, here he is! (Before and after felting.)

  

I’ve made two sizes of mouse, because my cats like very different toys. Arwen, our older cat, loves big toys that reek of catnip. (She’s a big kitty and she looooves felted wool.)

Kif, our younger and much smaller cat, is indifferent to catnip and only likes toys that he can carry comfortably in his mouth. (He’s hard to get a good picture of.)

Well, enough about my cats. I bet you’re just itching to know how to make one of those mousies.


Felted Mousie

Download the PDF: Felted Mousie

Update 5/23: I’ve fixed the increases for the mouse head. I have no idea what happened when I originally wrote it up- those increases made NO sense. If I didn’t know better, I’d say I was drunk when I wrote it. Anyway, I apologize to anyone who tried to make the mouse with those funky instructions!

Update 5/26: Fixed the number of stitches between the mouse ears. Corrections in purple.

  • Yarn: Any feltable, worsted weight wool (I used Knit Picks Wool of the Andes in Lake Ice Heather) plus a few inches of contrasting yarn for details.
  • Yardage: Small mouse approx 15 yards
  • Large Mouse approx 30 yards
  • Needles: Small mouse, size 7 dpns
  • Large Mouse, size 10 dpns
  • Other materials: Tapestry needle, toy stuffing, catnip, sewing needle and coordinating thread.
  • Gauge: Not really important, since the mouse will be felted.

Prefelted Measurements: Small Mouse, approx 2.25″x3.5″ (not including tail)

Large Mouse, approx 3.25″x5″ (not including tail)

Postfelted Measurements: Small Mouse, approx 1″ x 2.5″ (not including tail)

Large Mouse, approx 2.5″ x 3.5″ (not including tail)

Special Stitches

Make Bobble: Kf&b twice in the next 2 sts. (8 sts increased.) Turn, purl 8 sts just increased. Turn, k 8 sts. Turn, p2tog four times. Turn, k2tog twice. Continue row as instructed.

Mouse Head

For large mouse, work with yarn held doubled. For small mouse, work with one strand.

CO 4 sts to each of 2 needles, using Judy’s Magic Cast On. 8 sts

Round 1,3,5,7,: Knit

Round 2: K1, m1, k2, m1, k2, m1, k2, m1, k1 (4 sts increased.) 12 sts

Rearrange sts as desired.

Round 4: K1, m1, k4, m1, k2, m1, k4, m1, k1 (4 sts increased) 16 sts

Round 6: K1, m1, k6, m1, k2, m1, k6, m1, k1 (4 sts increased) 20 sts

Round 8: K1, m1, k8, m1, k2, m1, k8, m1, k1 (4 sts increased) 24 sts total

Knit 1-2 rounds even. (More rounds give the mouse a longer face.)

Ears

Next round: K2, Make Bobble, k4, Make Bobble, knit to the end of the round.

Knit 3-5 rounds even. If you want a longer mouse body, knit more rounds.

Mouse Butt

Round 1: K1, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2, k2tog, k6, ssk, k1 (4 sts decreased.) 20 sts

Round 2, 4, 6: Knit

Round 3: K1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1 (4 sts decreased.) 16 sts

Round 5: K1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1 (4 sts decreased.) 12 sts

Round 7: K1, k2tog, ssk, k2, k2tog, ssk, k1 (4 sts decreased.) 8 sts

K2tog around. (4 sts decreased.) 4 sts

Small Mouse only: K2tog, k2. 3 sts remain.

Tail

Small Mouse: Work 3-st I-cord until tail is at least 2” long.

Large Mouse: Work 4-st I-cord until tail is at least 2″ long. (My cats like a long tail, so I knit the tail about 4″ long.)

Embroider eyes, nose, etc in scrap yarn on the face below the ears.

Felting

The small mouse can be felted by hand in about 10 minutes. Run some hot water (about as hot as you can comfortably stand) in the sink and dip your mouse in. Add some soap to the mouse and start to rub and squish him vigorously between your hands. (This might be a fun thing to make- um, ask your kids do for you.) When your mouse has lost his stitch definition and is the right size (keep felting him to make him smaller,) rinse him in cold water and set him aside to dry.

The larger mouse can be felted by hand (takes a bit longer than the small mouse) or in the washer. If you’ve got any other felting projects, you can throw the mouse in with them.

For more information on machine felting, check out this article on Knitty.

When the mouse is felted and dry, cut a small hole in the underside, stuff with toy stuffing and catnip, sew the opening back up, and give to the cat.

Success!

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you.  They have not been fully tested.  They are free, though. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free.  There may be typos or other mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

 

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This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.