The Daily Skein

All the craft that’s fit to make.

A Skein of Geese July 22, 2010

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 11:49 am
Tags: , ,

Has anyone seen my copy of Knitting from the Top Down?

 

No?  Well then, I guess I should tell you about these socks instead.  (This is about 3 weeks overdue- I blame the nice weather outside.)

 

Consummate V 07

 

They’re called A Skein of Geese.  Did you know that a flock of geese in flight is called a skein?  Me neither.  Like Danu, these socks were designed last summer but didn’t find a home until recently.  The pattern is up for sale at the Sanguine Gryphon (Gryphon is the one who chose the name for the pattern- it’s genius and I’m very jealous that I didn’t think of it first).   [Edit 6/2012: The Sanguine Gryphon has closed down.  The pattern is available for purchase on Ravelry; you do not have to have a Ravelry account to buy it.]

 

Consummate V 04   Consummate V 02

 

I had been calling them “Consummate V’s,” a reference to Strongbad’s (a web cartoon) instructions on how to draw the dragon Trogdor.  You can see the cartoon here.  The knit/purl chevron pattern reminded me of the “scales” on Trogdor.  But that name/reference is kind of obscure and the chevrons look like geese in flight as much as they do poorly drawn dragon scales.

 

Lowell Socks 011     

 

The socks, whatever their name, were designed for Lowell.  They are man-approved!  The manly chevrons flow out of the ribbing and continue uninterrupted down the foot to the toe.  Yes, these socks feature a patterned toe.  The V’s are separated by moss stitch panels, which start at the top of the sock, for an overall textured look.  The entire sock is done with just knits and purls, which is unusual for me; that’s why I had to add in a patterned toe and heel flap.

 

Lowell Socks 013   Consummate V 10

 

Yes, the heel is patterned too.  The heel is worked over slightly more than half of the leg stitches and the chevron/moss stitch pattern is maintained throughout the heel flap. The heel may look a little baggy while being knit but Lowell says that it fits great.  Heel stitch (sl 1, k1 across) compresses the fabric vertically, so that it takes more rows to reach the standard two inch heel flap than it would in stockinette stitch.  Since this is essentially a stockinette heel, even though there is patterning, there will be fewer rows on the heel flap and fewer stitches to pick up for the gusset than there would be with a heel stitch flap.  I think I only picked up twelve stitches on each side for these socks!

 

Consummate V 06   Consummate V 08

 

They’re knit in Sanguine Gryphon’s Kypria, which I love.  You know that I’m a sucker for a wool/bamboo sock yarn.  Kypria is 70% superwash merino/20% bamboo/10% nylon and it lived up to my hopes.  Soft, with good “squish” (also known as loft but that rhymes), lovely stitch definition, a bit of rayon shine, and no splitting.  I’m a big fan of yarns that are “semisolid” more than variegated; I like my yarns to have just a little variation for interest but not so much that it obscures the stitch pattern.  That was what attracted me to Gryphon’s yarns in the first place.  The semi-solid colors are impossible for me to resist.  The socks above are the colorway “Mortal Marriage” and the ones below, photos by the Sanguine Gryphon, are in “Virtuous Beauty.”

 

man socks1sm   man socks2sm

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Danu July 7, 2010

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 1:20 pm
Tags: , , ,

Last summer, I dug myself out of a dangerous twisted stitch sock addiction by designing a pair of socks.  (It may seem like an odd cure, but I’ve found it to be effective.)  Since Alpine socks take so much concentration, I wanted these new socks to be kind of mindless but not boring.  Interesting, but easy.  What I came up with was…

 

Danu, a classy cable-rib sock with easy cables and moss stitch accents.

 

Danu 1

 

These socks were inspired by stories of the Tuatha Dé Dannan (“people of the goddess Danu”) who ruled Ireland until they were driven to the Otherworld by the Gaelic Celts. Worked top-down, the socks feature bold cables, for the warriors, and subtle moss stitch columns, for the tricksters.  At the heel, two of the cables split and continue down the side of the foot, merging the patterned instep with the plain sole. The gusset decreases are placed at the bottom of the heel flap instead of the top so that the side cables can use the gusset stitches in their twists. With an easy-to-memorize pattern and slightly unusual construction, these socks may even have some of the magic of the Tuatha Dé Dannan still in them.

102_4474    Danu 3

 

At the time I designed these, I was reading a book by Juliet Marillier whose writing I adore.  She specializes in historical fiction with a healthy dose of ancient folklore/fantasy.  Reading a story set just after the Tuatha Dé Dannan’s withdrawal to the Otherworld might have influenced the name of the pattern.  Maybe.

 

Danu 2    Danu 4

 

Danu was picked up by Yarn Forward for publication last fall and I’m happy to announce that the socks have finally found their home in issue #26!  (On newsstands now!) 

 

SCN_0001

 

I’m pretty excited that Danu is one of the pictured patterns in the table of contents.  The contract Yarn Forward has with their photographer doesn’t allow for third-parties to post their pictures, so you’ll have to look at the magazine to see it and the other great photos.    The ones above are pictures that I took at a stream near my house for the submission.  My camera doesn’t have a remote, so these were taken (like the Arthurian Anklets) by setting the self-timer and dashing into a pose while trying not to get any detritus on the socks.  Actually, these were taken just down the path from the pictures of the Anklets.  That park is wonderful for “wild” sock pictures.  When they send the socks back, I’ll take some more (read: better) photos with Lowell.

 

102_4473

 

Sitka June 10, 2010

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 11:24 pm
Tags: , , , ,

Before I tell you all about the lovely yarns I got in Virginia and North Carolina, I have some good news to share!

 

I’d like to introduce you to Sitka.

 

 

These socks take their name and inspiration from the Sitka spruce, a beautiful northwestern evergreen tree. They are worked from the top-down with a slip-stitch heel flap. The interesting part of these socks is the two bands of color work, one around the leg and one around the ball of the foot.

 

 

Between these bands, the sock is mostly stockinette with a simple cable “clock” on each side. A clock is a stitch pattern that travels down the side of the leg and splits at the heel, like the hands of a clock.

 

 

Clocks were a popular design element in early socks and one of my favorite techniques. They add interest but don’t slow things down. Because the clock pattern in these socks is 9 stitches wide, the front of the sock has fewer stockinette stitches than the back. This allows the line of purls between the cables to continue down the foot uninterrupted.

 

Sitka is similar to Socks, circa 2008.  I love the look of a sock with a bit of color on top.  But Sitka has an extra band of color work at the toe, thrown in for free.  It also has simpler cables and a plain heel flap.  I saw the top band in a stitch dictionary (in very different colors) and knew that I had to design a sock using it.  The rest of the sock grew from that band.  The colors were the last thing to be figured out in this pattern- with a near frogging of the first sock when I had second thoughts!  However, the original colors I chose prevailed.

 

 

Sitka is for sale at Knit Picks as a PDF download.  You can buy the pattern by itself for $1.99 or as a kit.  I love their new Independent Designer Program and have had a great experience with the publication process.  I get all the proceeds from the pattern sales (they keep the yarn profits, obviously) and I keep the rights to the pattern.  I take care of all the errata and corrections, so if you have any questions about the pattern, please contact me at dailyskein (at) gmail.com or on Ravelry as CailynDragon.  If you’ve read any of the other entries on this blog, you probably know that all my “go-to” yarns are from Knit Picks.  The open invitation to submit patterns to them is something I’m really enjoying.  I have another pattern in the works for them… and probably a whole bunch more, too!

 

 

These photos were taken in the forest behind my house early one spring morning.  Lowell took this great shot of the sun through the trees.

 

 IMG_0613

 

One of our neighbors had taken a No Parking sign from the street and put it behind their house; I guess as a protest for the high number of them in our cul de sac?  They’ve moved now, so we’ll never know.  Made us laugh, though!  They hated those No Parking signs.

 

IMG_0577 

 

This is the tree I’m standing on.  See, we found out that the roots were rotting away and it might fall onto our house.  The top half of the tree got cut off and the rest left as a snag.  The top half was left in the forest and is now a great place for photos!  And wildlife too, since I guess the world doesn’t revolve around my sock-photo needs.

 

p2190111   IMG_0518

 

Logi January 7, 2010

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 10:14 pm
Tags: , , , ,

102_4867 

 

"When Loki and Thor traveled to Utgard, the citadel of the giants, they were told by the giant king that no one could stay in the citadel without proving themselves superior at a skill or craft.

Loki was the first to demonstrate his skill, saying that he could eat faster than anyone in the hall. He started at one end of the table and his challenger, the giant Logi, started at the other, eating towards the center. Loki ate everything, leaving only the bones behind. But Logi ate the bones and even the wooden trencher!

In the morning, the giant king revealed that he had tricked them. Logi, he told them, was fire itself and no one could consume faster than fire. Utgard vanished, along with the giants, and Thor and Loki returned home."

That is an extremely abridged version of one of my favorite Norse myths, where Thor and Loki go to fight some giants and end up humiliated by a clever king and some magic. The cable on this scarf was inspired by the interlocking designs on Viking armor and jewelry which is surrounded by double moss stitch borders. The cable starts and ends in a pair of points, like the tips of a flame. To do this, fewer stitches are cast on and then increases are worked to make the points.

 

102_4880 

 

This scarf was designed for my brother-in-law, and if you’d ever seen him and my husband eat a pile of barbeque, you’ll know the other reason this scarf is named Logi.  This is a great pattern to knit for guys, especially when you tell them that the cable is Viking-related!

 

Using one skein (200 or so yards) of Malabrigo will produce a short but still respectable length scarf. In order to make the scarf wider and/or longer, add a second skein. To easily make this scarf wider, add pairs of stitches to each edge and work them in double moss stitch. For example, the first row for a wider scarf might read "Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice x3 , p12, *k1, p1* twice x3, k1, turn." This adds two stitches to each the right and left side.

 

The scarf will have a tendency to flip inwards around the cable as it’s worked. This is because of the two columns of purl stitches on either side of the cable. When the scarf is finished, steam block the scarf aggressively to relax the fibers and minimize the flipping. Wet blocking will work but steam blocking is more effective for combating the flip.  Learn more about steam blocking versus wet blocking at TechKnitting, Knitty, and KnitSimple.

 

Edit 2/23/10: Renamed the increases so that the names in the instructions and the names in the key match.

 

102_4863   102_4870

Logi

Download the PDF: Logi

  • Needles: One pair size 9 (5.5mm) straight needles or size needed to obtain gauge
  • Yarn: Malabrigo Worsted [100% merino wool] 216 yds/3.5oz Color: Loro Barranquero; 1 skein
  • Yardage: 200-250 yards (180-225m)
  • Gauge: 26 sts x 21 rows = 4”(10cm) in pattern
  • Finished Size: 4.5” x 52” (11.5cm x 132cm)
  • Notions: Cable needle, tapestry needle

 

Special Stitches

LRinc: Insert right needle into the right leg of the knit stitch or the top of the purl stitch below the next stitch. Knit this new stitch.

LLinc: Insert left needle into the left leg of the knit stitch or the top of the purl stitch two rows below the stitch just worked. Knit this new stitch.

K2tog: Knit 2 together

SSK: Slip next 2 sts purlwise. Insert left needle into the front loops of the slipped stitches and knit them together.

P2tog: Purl 2 together

SSP: Slip next 2 sts knitwise. Return sts to left needle and p2tog through the back loops.

C4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the front. K2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.

C4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the back. K2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.

T4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the front. P2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.

T4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the back. K2 from left needle, then p2 from cable needle.

 

Scarf

 

CO 22 sts.

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice, p12, *k1, p1* twice, k1, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.

Row 3 (RS): Sl 1, *k1, p1* twice, p12, *p1, k1* twice, p1, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.

 

Work Chart A for 8 rows. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right. 8 sts increased. 30 sts

 

Work Chart B until scarf is 2.5 inches less than desired length, ending on Row 16. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right.

 

Work Chart C for 10 rows. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right. 8 sts decreased. 22 sts

 

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, *k1, p1* twice, p12, *p1, k1* twice, p1, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.

Row 3 (RS): Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice, p12, *k1, p1* twice, k1, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Bind off all sts knitwise.

 

Finishing: Weave in ends. Steam block to relax the fiber’s tendency to flip inwards at the edge of the cable. Steam blocking will lessen the flip more than wet blocking.

 

Click on charts for bigger image, or download the PDF above.

Key

Chart B

 Chart C

Chart D

 

102_4859

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested, but they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein@gmail.com.

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Cabobble November 30, 2009

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 8:00 am
Tags: , , , ,

100_3885

 

Simple, cute mittens are always in style. Add a funny name and how can you lose? The name is a combination of “cable: and “bobble” inspired by the off-center cable which features small, easy bobbles for interest. The afterthought thumb is simple to knit and the shaping at the top of the mitten makes a very flat top. This is a great project for some luxury or handspun yarn.

 

The purple mittens shown were snatched up by my sister last year.  I really enjoyed working with this yarn; it was my first Debbie Bliss yarn if you can believe it.  The second pair is being knit in Twilley’s Freedom Spirit in Fire.  I love the subtle self-striping and the way it highlights the cables and bobbles. 

 

102_4823    100_3862     102_4832

 

Cabobble Mittens

Download the PDF Cabobble Mittens

  • Needle Size: Size 3 (3.25mm) DPNs
  • Yarn: Debbie Bliss Rialto DK Purple (100% Extrafine Merino) 2 balls, 116 yds/50g
  • Yardage: 190 –230 yards
  • Gauge: 26 sts x 38 sts= 4” in stockinette
  • Finished Size: Hand, 7”; Length, 8 5/8”
  • Notions: Cable needle, 6” smooth waste yarn, tapestry needle
Special Stitches

T5R: Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, then k3 from cable needle.

T5L: Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, k3, then k2 from cable needle.

C3B: Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, then p1 from cable needle.

C3F: Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p1, then k2 from cable needle.

MB (make bobble): Knit into the front and back of the next stitch twice, turn and p4, turn, sl 1, k3tog, psso. Bobble completed.

 

Cuff (same for both mittens)

CO 48 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: *K1, p1* repeat from * to * to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 2” long.

 

Right Hand

Increase Round: M1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, k13, m1, k2, m1, k20, m1, k2. 4 sts increased. 52 sts

Cable Rounds

Round 1: K1, p3, T5R, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: K1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 3: K1, p2, C3B, p1, C3F, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 4: K1, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: K1, p1, C3B, p1, MB, p1, C3F, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 6: K1, p1, k2, p5, k2, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 7: K1, p1, C3F, p3, C3B, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 8: K1, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 9: K1, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 10: K1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1-8 again.

Next round (counts as round 9): K1, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, k14; using waste yarn, k8, slip these sts back to left needle and knit again with working yarn; knit to the end of the round.

Starting with Round 10, continue Cable Rounds 1-10 4 more times, ending after Round 1.

Top Shaping

Round 1: *K2, k2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 39 sts

Round 2 and 4: Knit even.

Round 3: *K1, k2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 26 sts

Round 5: *K2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 13 sts

Round 6: *K2tog* repeat from * to * to last st of round, k1. 7 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

Left Hand

Increase Round: K1, m1, k12, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, m1, k2, m1, k20, m1, k2. 4 sts increased. 52 sts

Round 1: K14, p3, T5L, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: K14, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 3: K14, p2, C3B, p1, C3F, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 4: K14, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: K14, p1, C3B, p1, MB, p1, C3F, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 6: K14, p1, k2, p5, k2, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 7: K14, p1, C3F, p3, C3B, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 8: K14, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 9: K14, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 10: K14, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1-8 again.

Next round (counts as round 9): K14, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, k19; using waste yarn, k8, slip these sts back to left needle and knit again with working yarn.

Starting with Round 10, continue Cable Rounds 1-10 4 more times, ending after Round 1.

Top Shaping

Round 1: *K2, ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 39 sts

Round 2 and 4: Knit even.

Round 3: *K1, ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 26 sts

Round 5: *Ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 13 sts

Round 6: *Ssk* repeat from * to * to last st of round, k1. 7 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

Thumb (same for both mittens)

Carefully remove waste yarn from thumb and place live sts on DPNs. There will be 8 sts on the bottom and 7 sts on top. Join yarn and knit across the bottom 8 sts. Pick up 4 sts along the side of the opening, knit the 7 top sts, then pick up 4 sts along the other side. 23 sts

Knit 1 round.

Next Round: *K1, ssk* 7 times, k2. 16 sts

Knit even until thumb measures 2” or ¼” shorter than desired length.

Thumb Shaping

Round 1: K1, *k1, ssk* 5 times. 11 sts

Round 2: Knit even

Round 3: K1, *ssk* to the end of the round. 5 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

100_3872   102_4821

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Wintergreen Gloves October 5, 2009

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 9:34 am
Tags: , , , ,

100_3825

 

These cute fingerless gloves are inspired by traditional Selbu mittens.  The construction differs from the historical mittens and uses a thumb gusset on the side of the hand instead of a gusset on the palm, but the motifs are all taken from traditional patterns.  I can’t decide if the main motif reminds me of hearts, mint leaves, or snowflakes.  The construction is essentially the same as the Snowflake and the Albuquerque Fingerless Gloves.  But these gloves only use five colors (and the background color doesn’t change)!  I love knitting these style gloves.  They seem to knit up faster than other projects, probably because the pattern changes every row- it’s very addicting!  And there’s no fingers to mess with.  I’ve found that wearing these over a thin glove liner is just about perfect for Seattle mornings and of course they’re great for typing in cold offices or computer rooms.

 

There are separate mirrored charts for the right and left glove for easier knitting (no reading from left to right while knitting right to left!) Charts are available in color and symbols below and in the PDF. To make finishing less painful, weave in ends as you go by twisting/wrapping the last yarn for 10-15 sts on the new row. Try joining the new color 10- 15 sts early (the row before it appears on the chart) and carry it along, twisting/wrapping it every other st. This helps eliminate holes at the sides.

 

The increases for the thumb gusset are written as yarn overs which are knit twisted on the next round. Standard lifted increases can be substituted; the yarn over method can prevent puckering or tension problems from lifting the strands from below. I recommend marking the increases for the thumb with two stitch markers: place the first one before the first YO and the second one after the second YO on the first increase row. Slip the markers every round after this; it will make it easier to know which stitches to put on the scrap yarn when the gusset is finished.

 

These gloves can be knitted from the charts alone between the ribbing sections, but instructions have been written for rows with increases, decreases, or other things that need attention. If there are no written instructions for a row, follow the chart until the next written row.

 

100_3830

Wintergreen Gloves

Download the PDF: Wintergreen Gloves

  • Finished Size: Hand circumference, 7”; Length, 7”
  • Needle Size: Size 0 (2.00mm) DPNs
  • Gauge: 38 sts x 26 rows = 4” in two-color stockinette
  • Yarn: Knit Picks Palette (100% wool) 1 ball each (231yd/50g): White, Sky, Pool, Tidepool Heather, Marine Heather
  • Notions: 12” smooth waste yarn, tapestry needle

Errata

11/7/09- Fixed column numbers along the bottom of the charts; numbers now count correctly by 5’s instead of "1, 5, 10, 11, 15."  Fixed written instructions to Round 39.

12/9/09- Fixed gauge error.

1/26/10- Fixed decrease round before Top Ribbing; “k2tog, k6” has been changed to “k2tog, k5”

3/21/11- Fixed increase errors in thumb gussets; the first two rounds of the gusset have changed.  The first round has only 1 increase, the second has two instead of the first increases being on the palm/back of hand.

Special Stitches

YO R: Bring yarn to the front by going over the top of the right needle and return to the back under the needle. On the next round, knit into the front of the yarn over.

YO L: Bring yarn to the front by going under the right needle and return to the back over the top of the needle. On the next round, knit into the back of the yarn over.

Cuff (Work the same for both gloves)

In White, CO 60 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: *K2, p2* to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 1 inch.

In Sky, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In White, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In Pool, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In White, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In Tidepool Heather, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In White, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

Repeat last round until cuff measures 2” from cast on.

Hand

Increase Round: K3, m1 *k6, m1* 9 times, k3. 70 sts

Work Right Hand Chart [Left Hand Chart] for 38 rounds, changing colors where indicated on chart and increasing stitches where indicated. It is helpful to place a stitch marker before the first increase and after the second increase to mark the thumb stitches.

Next Round: Work round 39 of chart for 36 [34] sts, slip all 19 thumb stitches to scrap yarn, CO 3 stitches in White using the backwards loop method over the gap. Continue round 39 of chart. 73 sts

Continue working chart until round 52 is completed, decreasing where indicated.

Top Ribbing (Work the same for both gloves)

Round 53 (not shown on chart): K3, *k2tog, k5* 9 times, k2tog, k2. 60 sts

Ribbing: *K2, p2* to the end of the round.

Repeat Ribbing until ribbing measures 1/2 inch.

Cast off loosely, cut yarn and weave in ends.

Thumb (Work the same for both gloves)

Return 19 thumb sts to needles, removing waste yarn.

Join White at the beginning of the thumb on the back of the hand. Knit across all thumb sts, working YOs as before. Pick up 5 sts across the gap (1 in each of the cast on stitches and 1 in either “corner”). 24 sts

Round 1: K18, k2tog, k3, k2tog (joining the first and last st of the round). 22 sts

Round 2: *K1, p1* to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 2 until thumb ribbing measures ¾”.

Cast off loosely, cut yarn and weave in ends.

Color Charts (click on charts for larger image)

 

Key Color

R Chart 2  L Chart 2

Symbol Charts (click on charts for larger image)

 

Key Symbol

R Chart S 2  L Chart S 2

100_3823

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested, but they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Glass Slipper Socks August 21, 2009

Filed under: Knitting Projects,patterns — Cailyn @ 1:51 pm
Tags: , , , ,

Hey, the Fall 09 preview for Knotions is up!  And what’s this?  Is this one of my patterns there under “Steeped in History”?  Why, yes, I do believe it is!

 

knotions window 

 

Glass Slippers are top-down socks with elegant twisted stitches down the side of the leg and across the top of the foot. The twisted stitches are surrounded by moss stitch and stockinette. A cable needle is optional; the traditional way of working these tiny cables is without one. The toe has been modified to avoid grafting.

 

The full issue will be up next week, with more pictures and the pattern for free.  There’s some great projects in this issue- it’s humbling to be in such great company.  I’ll write more about my pattern here then.