The Daily Skein

All the craft that’s fit to make.

2nd Verse, Same as the First May 3, 2008

I made these gloves for my great mother-in-law for Christmas last year. They were a big hit. I was riding high from my success with my Snowflake Gloves and loving the two-color knitting. These gloves were an attempt to blend the Fair Isle style with traditional southwestern designs instead of snowflakes and diamonds. Although I did add in some “pine branches” in the corners to keep the Fair Isle relationship obvious. (To be honest, though, I think they could just as easily be arrows.) I spend a lot of time looking at Navajo and Pueblo pottery for the pattern bands and palm. DH helped me pick out the colors; originally, they were going to have some dark green and maybe some terra cotta brown. Even while I was knitting these, I wasn’t entirely happy with the colors. It wasn’t until the very end that I saw it come together.

These gloves are shorter that the Snowflake Gloves and only use 6 colors (only, ha!) The basic construction is the same, with a thumb gusset that’s made by increasing stitches every 3rd row and then placed on a holder to be knit later. (Called a sore thumb, or basic thumb gusset. Take a look here at the Knitting in Color blog for more info about this type of thumb.)

 

I spent all yesterday shining up the pattern so that it’s readable by someone sane. I also changed some of the wording in the Snowflake Gloves, so you might want to give it another look. This pattern hasn’t been tested yet, so if you find a problem, please let me know! Oh, also, I didn’t record the yardage when I knit either the Snowflake Gloves or the Albuquerque Gloves (I wasn’t thinking about publishing them when I first knit them) so if a brave knitter would like to record their yardage, I would be eternally grateful. (As would the other knitters!)

 

Edit 8/20/08: Fixed some minor errors.  Fixes are in purple.  I’ve figured out how to publish chart better now, so I’m publishing the pattern on the blog, straight-up as it were.  PDF is still floating around on my computer, if you’d like it, please email me.

Edit 10/22/08: Putting PDF back up for those that would like it.  Easier to print and whatnot.

 

Finally, I give you….( drum roll, please!):

 

Albuquerque Gloves

 

Download the PDF: Albuquerque Gloves

 

This pattern is written for 1 long circular needle (magic loop method) but is easily worked on DPNs or 2 circs. I suggest DPNs for the thumb, though. There are separate charts for the right and left glove for easier knitting. To make finishing less painful, weave in ends as you go by twisting/wrapping the last yarn for 10-15 sts on the new row. I join a new color 10- 15 sts early (the row before it appears on the chart) and carry it along, twisting/wrapping it every other st. This helps eliminate holes at the sides. The exact yardage of yarn is unknown, but the all colors need less than 1 ball, the A colors less than 1/2.

 

I recommend marking the increases for the thumb with two stitch markers: place the first one before the first YO and the second one after the second YO on the first increase row. Slip the markers every row after this; it will make it easier to know which stitches to put on the scrap yarn.

 

You may notice that the geometric patterns don’t quite match up at the sides- the patterns were so perfect but wouldn’t fit perfectly, so I fudged. The break in the pattern is hardly noticeable on the finished glove. The gloves are meant to be snug, but not too tight, so be aware of the tension.

 

These gloves can be knitted from the charts alone, but I have written out the instructions for rows with increases, decreases, or other things that need attention. If there are no written instructions for a row, follow the chart until the next written row.  Charts jpgs are at the end of the written instructions.

 

  • Needles: Size 1 (2.25mm) long circular or DPNs
  • Yarn: Knit Picks Palette: A1 Garnet (1 ball), A2 Salsa (1 ball), A3 Golden (1 ball); B1 Sky (1 ball), B2 Pool (1 ball), B3 Blue Note (1 ball)
  • Notions: Scrap yarn, stitch markers
  • Gauge: 9sts/in, 10rows/in
  • Finished Size: Women’s Small/Medium

Special Stitches

YO Increase: YO where indicated on the chart, in the color on the chart. On the next row, knit the YO through the back loop to twist the stitch and eliminate the hole.  You can use M1 if you prefer; personally, I couldn’t stand trying to M1 with floats in the way.

K1 P1 Rib: *K1, p1* repeat from * to * until the end of the round.

 

Hand

CO 54 sts loosely in B2 (Pool).

Work K1 P1 Rib for 12 rows.

Switch to B3 (Blue Note).

Round 1: K2, yo, *k7, yo* 7 times, k3. 8 sts increased. 62 sts

Divide sts so that “Needle 1” has 32 sts and “Needle 2” has 30 sts.

Work Left Chart until Round 13 is completed.

Round 14: Knit in pattern to the end of “Needle 1.” Place first marker and make YO increase in color on chart. On “Needle 2,” make YO increase in color on chart, place second marker and continue knitting in pattern.

Work Left Chart, making YO increases in colors shown on chart every third row, until 18 sts have been increased. 80 sts

Round 40: Knit in pattern to first thumb marker. Slide thumb sts (careful with the 2 YOs) onto waste yarn or a stitch holder. CO 2 sts in the gap in B1 (Sky) using backwards loop method, one st on each needle, knit to end of “Needle 2” in pattern. 2 sts increased. 64 sts

Round 43: Knit to 2 sts before the end of “Needle 1” in pattern, ssk. On “Needle 2,” k2tog, knit to the end in pattern. 2 sts decreased. 62 sts

Work chart until Round 55 is completed.

Round 56: K3, *k2tog, k6* 7 times, k2tog. 8 sts decreased. 54 sts

Switch to B2 (Pool.)

Work K1 P1 Rib for 5 rows.

Cast off with medium tension.

 

Thumb

Return held sts to needles. DPNs are recommended here.

Join B2 (Pool,) leaving a long tail, to the palm side of the thumb. Using working yarn and tail held together, pull up a loop in one stitch in the corner between needle and earlier cast on sts, pull up a loop in each of the 2 cast on sts across the gap and 1 more loop in the other corner. 4 sts increased. Knit across remaining sts, knitting the 2 YOs through the back loops. 22 sts

Round 1: *k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog* twice. 4 sts decreased. 18 sts

Work 8 rounds K1 P1 Rib. Cast off loosely.

For the right glove: Work Right Chart, with 32 sts on Needle 1 and 30 sts on Needle 2. All instructions are the same.

 

Click on the charts to see them full size.

Left Chart   Right Chart

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested. But they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

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Post 2- This time it’s personal. April 30, 2008

Filed under: Knitting Projects,patterns — Cailyn @ 10:16 am
Tags: , , , , ,

So, when I was typing the title up there, I accidentally wrote "thyme" instead of "time." I’m not sure what sort of spice-based sequel my subconscious was hoping for, but it ain’t gonna happen.

 

Anyway. I promised a pattern today, and I shall deliver! Typos and grammatical mistakes will not deter me from my goal. (So you typos can just go away now and stop making me delete so much, right?)

These are my Snowflake Fingerless Gloves. They’re my second colorwork project and I love them to death. There are seven colors, in KnitPicks Palette, knit on one long circular using the magic loop. I designed them in Excel which is so much easier than the old graph-paper-and-colored-pencils method. All hail the copy-paste! These gloves were so much fun to knit (even though there were a few too many ends to weave in.)

I should mention, I didn’t intend to use black as the center color. I had gotten another shade of blue, but it was too similar to the contrasting color. I had black left over from another project and I wasn’t about to wait for more yarn to arrive to finally knit these things! I think the black really adds something now, which just goes to show that serendipity is alive and well.

These gloves have always kept me nice and toasty. They go a fair way up my fingers, so even the tips of my fingers stay pretty warm. (And I don’t have to take them off to knit in the cold!)

 

I’ve written down the instructions and the charts in a PDF, including some tips and more information.

Edit 8/20/08: I’ve figured out how to publish chart better now, so I’m publishing the pattern on the blog, straight-up as it were.  PDF is still floating around on my computer, if you’d like it, please email me.

 Edit 10/22/08: Putting PDF back up for those that would like it.  Easier to print and whatnot.

 

The pattern assumes some knowledge of knitting in the round, 2-color knitting, and general glove construction, but I’d like to think that it’s easily followed by a "newbie." Of course, let me know if it’s not! Please tell me if you find any mistakes or typos in the pattern. And I’m happy to answer any questions; this is my first "published" pattern and I’d like everyone to be as happy with it as I am.

 

Well, that paragraph ended rather sappily. I don’t think sappily is a word. I knew I would have to end the post on a grammatical error since I started on a typo… the symmetry is nice, don’t you think?

 

Snowflake Fingerless Gloves

Download the PDF: Snowflake Fingerless Gloves

 

This pattern is written for 1 long circular needle (magic loop method) but is easily worked on 2 circulars or DPNs. I suggest DPNs for the thumb. There are separate charts for the right and left glove for easier knitting. To make finishing less painful, weave in ends as you go by twisting/wrapping the last yarn for 10-15 sts on the new row. I join a new color 10- 15 sts early (the row before it appears on the chart) and carry it along, twisting/wrapping it every other st. This helps eliminate holes at the sides. The exact yardage of yarn is unknown, but the all colors need less than 1 ball, the A colors less than 1/2.

 

I recommend marking the increases for the thumb with two stitch markers: place the first one before the first YO and the second one after the second YO on the first increase row. Slip the markers every row after this; it will make it easier to know which stitches to put on the scrap yarn.

 

You may notice that the diamond motif doesn’t quite match up at the sides- I loved the motif but couldn’t get it to fit perfectly, so I fudged. The break in the pattern is hardly noticeable on the finished glove. The gloves are meant to be snug, but not too tight, so be aware of the tension.

 

These gloves can mostly be knitted from the charts alone, but I have written out the instructions for rows with increases, decreases, or other things that need attention. If there are no written instructions for a row, follow the chart until the next written row.  The charts are below the written instructions.

 

  • Needles: Size 1 (2.25mm) long circular or DPNs
  • Yarn: Knit Picks Palette: A1 Tidepool, A2 Sky, A3 Pool, A4 Mist; B1 Black, B2 Marine, B3 Blue Note
  • Notions: Scrap yarn, stitch markers, tapestry needle
  • Gauge: 9sts x 10rows = 1"
  • Finished Size: Women’s medium, 8 1/2" long (7 3/4" when worn)

Errata

1/27/10- Fixed chart key so that A2 and A3 read correctly.  Added separate instructions for the right glove.  Changed numbers on the bottom of the charts to read correctly right-left.  Fixed Round 54’s written instructions to match the charts.

Special Stitches

YO Increase: YO where indicated on the chart, in the color on the chart. On the next row, knit the YO through the back loop to twist the stitch and eliminate the hole.  You can use M1 if you prefer; personally, I couldn’t stand trying to M1 with floats in the way.

K1 P1 Rib: *K1, p1* repeat from * to * until the end of the round.

 

Left Hand

CO 56 sts loosely in B3 (Blue Note).

Work K1 P1 Rib for 12 rows.

Switch to A1 (Tidepool).

Round 1: K4, yo, *k7, yo* 7 times, k3. 8 sts increased. 64 sts

Divide sts so that "Needle 1" has 33 sts and "Needle 2" has 31 sts.

Work Left Chart until Round 28 is completed.

Round 29: Knit in pattern to the end of "Needle 1." Place first marker and make YO increase in color on chart. On "Needle 2," make YO increase in color on chart, place second marker and continue knitting in pattern.

Work Left Chart, making YO increases in colors shown on chart every third row, until 18 sts have been increased.

Round 54: Knit in pattern to first thumb marker. Slide thumb sts (careful with the 2 YOs) onto waste yarn or a stitch holder. CO 2 sts in the gap in A3 (Pool) using backwards loop method, one st on each needle, knit to end of "Needle 2" in pattern. 2 sts increased. 66 sts

Round 57: Knit to 2 sts before the end of Needle 1 in pattern, ssk. On Needle 2, k2tog, knit to the end in pattern. 2 sts decreased. 62 sts

Work Left Chart until Round 72 is completed.

Round 73: K2tog, *k6, k2tog* 7 times, k6. 8 sts decreased. 56 sts

Switch to B3 (Blue Note.)

Work K1 P1 Rib for 5 rows.

Cast off with medium tension.

 

Right Hand

CO 56 sts loosely in B3 (Blue Note).

Work K1 P1 Rib for 12 rows.

Switch to A1 (Tidepool).

Round 1: K4, yo, *k7, yo* 7 times, k3. 8 sts increased. 64 sts

Divide sts so that "Needle 1" has 31 sts and "Needle 2" has 33 sts.

Work Right Chart until Round 28 is completed.

Round 29: Knit in pattern to the end of "Needle 1." Place first marker and make YO increase in color on chart. On "Needle 2," make YO increase in color on chart, place second marker and continue knitting in pattern.

Work Right Chart, making YO increases in colors shown on chart every third row, until 18 sts have been increased.

Round 54: Knit in pattern to first thumb marker. Slide thumb sts (careful with the 2 YOs) onto waste yarn or a stitch holder. CO 2 sts in the gap in A3 (Pool) using backwards loop method, one st on each needle, knit to end of "Needle 2" in pattern. 2 sts increased. 66 sts

Round 57: Knit to 2 sts before the end of Needle 1 in pattern, ssk. On Needle 2, k2tog, knit to the end in pattern. 2 sts decreased. 62 sts

Work Right Chart until Round 72 is completed.

Round 73: K2tog, *k6, k2tog* 7 times, k6. 8 sts decreased. 56 sts

Switch to B3 (Blue Note.)

Work K1 P1 Rib for 5 rows.

Cast off with medium tension.

 

Thumb (same for both hands)

Return held sts to needles. DPNs are recommended here.

Join B2 (Pool,) leaving a long tail, to the palm side of the thumb. Using working yarn and tail held together, pull up a loop in one st in the corner between needle and earlier cast on sts, pull up a loop in each of the 2 cast on sts across the gap and 1 more loop in the other corner. 4 sts increased. Knit across remaining sts, knitting the 2 YOs through the back loops. 22 sts

Row 2: *k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog* twice. 4 sts decreased. 18 sts

Work 8 rows K1 P1 Rib. Cast off loosely.

 

Click on the charts to see them full size.

 

Snowflake Color Left     Snowflake Color Right   Snowflake Color Key

 Snowflake Symbol Left    Snowflake Symbol Right   Snowflake Symbol Key

 

Please Note: I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions for this pattern are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.