The Daily Skein

All the craft that’s fit to make.

Danube Socks July 23, 2008

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 2:44 pm
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Here they are, the Danube socks! (Finally!)

I’m not going to say that these socks are easy. But they were a lot easier than I expected. If you’ve done cables and you’ve made a sock before, you can do these socks! The center cable is complex, but the side cables pretty much take care of themselves. Some of the cables take a knit stitch and turn it into a purl or vise versa, so trust in the chart! (I forgot my own advice sometimes.) Also, unlike larger cables, there are cable twists every row. I’m going to post some pictures of how to do a twisted stitch tomorrow, in case the written description is confusing. It’s similar to cabling without a cable needle, just with fewer stitches.

One other word of advice- the ribbing at the top is pretty, but not very functional. I’ve broken it into sections for the written instructions, separated by semi-colons. The ribbing seems random, but there’s a pattern, I promise. And it’s really only the first row that you have to really pay attention to. After that it’s just working the stitches as they’re presented. Feel free to substitute your own favorite ribbing pattern instead, though. Oh, and do yourself a favor and gauge in the round- twisting stitches on the WS is not fun.

I made these socks on 2 circs- I particularly love the two circ method for cables, because I don’t have to worry about a cable traveling over a needle join. I also love the magic of working with DPNs, though, so I’ve tried to write the pattern as non-needle specific as possible. There are no guidelines as to how to arrange the stitches, except for the heel, so I hope the instructions are clear. I like to use stitch markers to mark the beginning of the round and the start and end of the instep sts.

Danube Socks

Download the PDF: Danube Socks

  • Finished Size: Women’s 9 (9.5″ foot length)
  • Needles: Size 1 (2.25mm) DPNs or 2 circulars
  • Yarn: Knit Picks Essential, Mermaid (2 skeins)
  • Yardage: 400 yards
  • Extras: Stitch markers, stitch holder or scrap yarn, tapestry needle
  • Gauge: 9 sts x 12 rows= 1″ in stockinette; first 29 sts x 18 rows of Chart A= 2.5″ x1.5″

Special Stitches

PYI Ribbing (Pretty But Ineffectual Ribbing): *P2, k2, p2, k1; p2, (k1, p1,) twice, k1; p2, k1, p1, (k2, p2) twice, k2, p1, k1; p2, (k1, p1) twice, k1; p2, k1* twice

1×1 Twisted Ribbing: *k1 tbl, p1* repeat to the end of the round.

Right Twist: Slip next two stitches purlwise. From the back, insert the left needle into the back of the first slipped stitch. Pull the right needle from both stitches and reinsert right needle into the loose stitch from the front. Slip this stitch back to the left needle, then k2 tbl.

Stitch Key

Cable Key

Left Twist: Insert the right needle into the back of the second stitch on the left needle. Pull left needle out of the first two stitches and reinsert the left needle into the loose stitch from the front. Replace stitch on right needle to left needle, then k2tbl.

Right Purl Twist: Perform a Right Twist, but at the end, k1tbl, p1.

Left Purl Twist: Perform a Left Twist, but at the end, p1, k1tbl.

(See tutorial here.)

All knit stitches on Chart A and B are knit through the back loop (tbl). Gray stitches on the chart are purled.

Leg

CO 80 sts using the Long Tail Cast On.

Work PYI Ribbing OR 1×1 Twisted Ribbing for about 1”.

Work Chart A completely once, then work Rounds 1 to 30 of Chart A again. (The red line just shows the halfway mark on the chart.)

Chart A - Leg

Divide for heel: Work Round 31 of Chart A. At the end of the round, work the first 3 stitches as presented from the beginning of the round, turn.

Heel

Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, p39, turn.

Row 2 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* repeat until the end of the row, turn.

(After the first few rows, you may want to put the other 40 sts on a holder or scrap yarn.)

Repeat these two rows 28 more times for a total of 30 rows, then work Row 1 again. RS will be facing.

Heel Turn

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, k22, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 3 (RS): Sl 1, k8, ssk, k1, turn.

Repeat Row 2 and 3, working 1 more stitch every row, until all stitches have been worked, ending after a WS row. 24 stitches remain.

Turn and knit across all heel stitches.

Gusset

Pick up and knit through the back loop 16 stitches along the heel flap and 1 st in the gap between the flap and the instep. (17 sts increased). Work Row 1 of Chart B across the held instep stitches. Pick up and knit through the back loop 1 st in the gap and 16 stitches along the heel flap (17 sts increased), k12 heel stitches to move the beginning of the round. Beginning of the round is now in the center of the heel. 98 sts.

Chart B - Instep

Round 1: Knit to 3 stitches before instep, k2tog, k1. Work the next row of Chart B across instep. K1, ssk, knit to the end of the round. 2 sts decreased.

Round 2: Knit to instep. Work the next Row of Chart B across instep. Knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1 and 2 until 40 sole stitches remain; a total of 80 stitches.

Foot

Work Round 2 until 2 ½” short of desired length. Try to end on Row 1, 13, 19 or 31 of Chart B. (Shown ending on Row 19).

Toe

Round 1: Knit to 3 stitches before instep, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to 3 sts before the end of the instep, k2tog, k2, ssk, knit to the end of the round. 4 sts decreased.

Round 2: Knit.

Repeat Round 1 and 2 until 20 sts remain.

Graft remaining sts together using Kitchener Stitch. Weave in ends, make another one, and wear around proudly!

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested. But they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Lakeside Gloves July 6, 2008

Filed under: Knitting Projects,patterns — Cailyn @ 10:32 am
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I cannot get a good picture of these mitts. It’s impossible. I think I’ll blame it on the drab weather. (Or the fact that my in-laws are here, therefore giving me less time to spend fiddling in my lightbox.)

Anyway, I wanted something light and small to wear while typing and going to movies (this summer has a strangely large number of movies that we want to see.) I wanted them to be quick and simple to knit too. These meet just about all my criteria, but I wish I had made them just a smidge longer at the end. The pattern and color combination were inspired by Rattlesnake Lake, where we like to kayak and hike (this isn’t my picture.)

Rattlesnake Lake

There aren’t actually any rattlesnakes at Rattlesnake Lake, but the wind blowing through the trees makes a very similar sound to a rattlesnake and the original explorers thought there were snakes here. The water is a beautiful teal color when it’s sunny and there’s a nice rocky/sandy beach at the shore.

The Lakeside Mitts start with a 1×1 twisted rib, then have a fun and not-too-complicated lace pattern. The lace pattern is only on the back of the hand, so the palm is smooth and comfortable. The thumb gusset is made with yarn overs and then bound off without having to join more yarn. Except for the contrasting color cuff, the gloves are made in one piece. The right glove is made by knitting from the side of the hand towards the thumb over the back of the hand. The left glove is made the opposite, by starting at the side of the hand, knitting across the palm, then over the back. The cuff instructions are the same for both.

Lakeside Mitts

Stitch Guide

Twisted Rib: *K1tbl, p1* until the end of the round.

M1: Insert right needle into the strand running between the stitches from front to back and place on left needle. Knit into the back loop. 1 stitch increased. Pictures here.

Larkspur Lace:

(worked over 29 sts)

Row 1: *K2, yo, sl1, k1, psso, k3, k2tog, yo,* 3 times, k2

Row 2 and all even rounds: Knit

Row 3: *K2, yo, k1, sl1, k1, psso, k1, k2tog, k1, yo,* 3 times, k2

Row 5: *K3, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, sl1, k1, psso, k1,* 3 times, k2

Row 7: *k2tog, k1, yo, k1, yo, k1, sl1, k1, psso,* 3 times, k2

Row 8: Knit.

Repeat Rows 1-8.

Cuff for Right and Left Mitt

CO 58 sts in CC. (29 sts on each needle, if using 2 circs.)

Work Twisted Rib for about 3/4″ or as long as desired.

Hand and Thumb Increases, Right Mitt

Round 1: Join MC and work the first row of Larkspur Lace over the first 29 sts, place one stitch marker, then p1, place second marker, m1, knit to 1 stitch before the end of the round, m1, p1. 2 stitches increased. 60 sts.

Round 2 and all Even rounds: Work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls.) Counts as even rows for Larkspur Lace.

Round 3: Work next odd row of Larkspur Lace to first marker, p1, k 30, p1.

Round 5: Work next odd row of Larkspur Lace to first marker, slip marker, YO, p1, YO, slip second marker, k 30, p1. 2 sts increased. 62 sts.

Round 7: Work next odd row of Larkspur Lace to first marker, slip marker, YO, knit to the purl stitch, p1, knit to second marker, YO, slip marker, k30, p1. 2 sts increased. 64 sts.

Alternate Round 7 and an Even Round until there are 11 YO increases on each side.

Rib Round: Work next odd row of Larkspur Lace to first marker, slip marker, *k1tbl, p1* to last stitch before marker, k1tbl, slip marker, k30, p1.

Alternate an Even Round, then Rib Round twice more (total of 3 Rib Rounds, 5 rounds in all.)

Bind Off Round: Work next odd row of Larkspur Lace to first marker, slip marker, BO all stitches between markers, remove second marker, BO 1 more stitch, k30, p1. 59 sts.

Work an Even Round, but CO 1 stitch after the marker. (Second marker can be removed now.) 1 stitch increased. 60 sts.

Alternate Round 3 and an Even Round until the gloves are about 1/2″ shorter than desired length.

Work Twisted Rib for 1/2″ or longer.

BO loosely and weave in ends.

Hand and Thumb Increases, Left Mitt

Round 1: Join MC and p1, m1, knit 27 sts, m1, place marker, p1, place second marker, work the first row of Larkspur Lace over the last 29 sts. 2 stitches increased. 60 sts.

Round 2 and all Even rounds: Work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls.) Counts as even rows for Larkspur Lace.

Round 3: P1, k 30, p1, work next odd row of Larkspur Lace to end of round.

Round 5: P1, k30, slip marker, YO, p1, YO, slip second marker, work next odd row of Larkspur Lace to end of round. 2 sts increased. 62 sts.

Round 7: P1, k30, slip marker, YO, knit to the purl stitch, p1, knit to second marker, YO, slip second marker, work next odd row of Larkspur Lace to end of round. 2 sts increased. 64 sts.

Alternate Round 7 and an Even Round until there are 11 YO increases on each side.

Rib Round: P1, k30, slip marker, *k1tbl, p1* to last stitch before marker, k1tbl, slip marker, work next odd row of Larkspur Lace to end of round.

Alternate an Even Round, then Rib Round twice more (total of 3 Rib Rounds, 5 rounds in all.)

Bind Off Round: P1, k30, BO all stitches between markers, remove second marker, BO 1 more stitch, work next odd row of Larkspur Lace end of round. 1 stitch decreased. 59 sts.

Work an Even Round, but CO 1 stitch before the marker. (First marker can be removed now.) 1 stitch increased. 60 sts.

Alternate Round 3 and an Even Round until the gloves are about 1/2″ shorter than desired length.

Work Twisted Rib for at least 1/2″.

BO loosely, weave in ends and enjoy your new mitts!

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested. But they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

The Sad Little Sock May 22, 2008

Filed under: Knitting Projects,patterns — Cailyn @ 2:14 pm
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After finishing the Shenandoah socks, I was pretty psyched about making a series of socks based on their construction. I really love the way they come together, and the possibilities seemed pretty endless. I had even come across another serendipitous color combination that would use up some Lorna’s Laces that I had sitting around from another project. After finishing the first sock in record time, I cast on for the second, completed the toe…

And that was it. Two weeks passed, the poor second sock languishing on the needles. I had solved this problem before, by knitting two socks at once on two circulars. But I’ve learned (the hard way mostly) that frogging happens more often than knitting when I’m making up a pattern as I go. And frogging two socks at once is both annoying and heartbreaking. So, these socks were knit the old fashioned way, one at a time. And of course, the poor second sock got pushed aside for something new and exciting (which itself is on the verge of being bumped…)

I grabbed the finished sock and the “half-finished” (or so I kept telling myself) sock last night to take some pictures of them. That’s when it hit me, like a full speed truck full of yarn. The reason the first sock went so fast and the second has gone absolutely nowhere. I put the first sock on and realized… I had knit a sock that I had no interest in wearing. I mean, I totally loved the design while I was making it; that two week break seems to have cracked the spell they had over me. I can’t see myself wearing this sock. And I remembered that I don’t really like Lorna’s Laces, which is why my Reptilian Lace second sock didn’t get finished either. (How did I forget that?) It’s a pleasure to knit with, but I don’t like how it feels on my feet. (I think I’m the only one who feels this way, but *shrug.*) BUT, everyone has different tastes, so if you like Lorna’s Laces, lace, and unique sock construction, read on! (Man, I didn’t take very good pictures either… Poor sock, you deserve better.)

  

Grand Teton Socks

Download the PDF: Grand Tetons Socks

  • Finished Size: Women’s 9 (foot length 9.5″)
  • Needles: Two Size 0 (2 mm) circular needles
  • Yarn: MC: KnitPicks Risata Marionberry (1 ball); CC: Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock Baltic Sea (1 skein)
  • Yardage: MC: 196 yards; CC: 45 yards
  • Extras: Tapestry needle, stitch markers, scrap yarn or stitch holder
  • Gauge: Stockinette Stitch: 8 sts x 11 rows= 1″, Ripple Lace (1 repeat): 15 sts= 1 5/8″; 10 rows= 7/8″

Special Stitches:

SSLK: Slip the last stitch knitwise, pick up the two loops of the next slipped stitch on the instep, slip the two loops purlwise, insert right needle into the front loops of the two loops and slipped stitch and knit all 3 together. (A modified Slip, Slip, Knit.)

SSLP: Slip the last stitch knitwise, pick up the two loops of the next slipped stitch on the instep, slip the two loops knitwise, return the two loops and slipped stitch to left needle, and purl all 3 together. (A modified Slip, Slip, Purl.)

W&T: Wrap and turn. On knit row, bring yarn forward between the needles, slip next stitch purlwise, bring yarn to back, slip the stitch back to the left needle and turn work. On purl row, bring yarn to the back, slip the next stitch purlwise, bring yarn to the front, slip the stitch back to the left needle, and turn work.

kf&b: Knit front and back. Knit into the front of the stitch, then into the back of the stitch. More details here.

Toe

Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, CO 12 sts to each needle in MC. 24 sts

The starting needle (Needle 1) is the top/instep. The second needle (Needle 2) is the bottom/sole.

Round 1: Knit.

Round 2: K1, M1, knit to last st on Needle 1, M1, K1, K1, M1, knit to last st on Needle 2, M1, K1. 4 sts increased.

Repeat Round 1 and 2 until there are 64 sts total, 32 sts on each needle.

Instep

Round 1: K16, M1, k16, knit 3 sts from Needle 2 to Needle 1, knit until 3 sts before the end of Needle 2, move last 3 sts to Needle 1. 39 sts on Needle 1. 26 sts on Needle 2.

Place sole sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder.

Work Instep Ripple Lace until instep measures 7” from tip of toe, approx 6 ½ repeats, ending on an even row (Row 6). You can either cut the MC yarn, or just twist the two yarns together on the WS before each RS row to carry the MC yarn upwards (see Shenandoah Socks for more details). Make sure that the last MC and CC slipped sts are snug; they can become loose waiting until the next MC or CC row, but don’t pull them too tight.

Instep Ripple Lace

Row 1(MC): Sl 1, knit to end.

Row 2(MC): Sl 1 , knit to end.

Row 3, 5, 7, 9(CC): Sl 1, [k2tog twice, *yo, k1* three times, yo, sl 1 k1 psso twice, k1] three times.

Row 4, 6, 8, 10(CC): Sl 1, purl to end.

When instep reaches 7” from toe, place instep sts on scrap yarn or stitch holder and return sole sts to needle.

Sole

Row 1 (RS): With the left needle, pick up the two loops of the first slipped stitch on the instep and move them (correctly mounted) to the right hand needle. Knit the two picked up loops together with the first stitch on the needle. Knit to 1 st before the end of the needle, SSKK (see special stitches.)

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl to last st, SSLP

Row 3: Sl 1, knit to last st, SSLK

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until all slipped sts have been used, ending after a RS row (do not use sts on the stitch holder or scrap yarn.)

Mini Heel Flap and Short Rows

Mini Heel Flap

Row 1: Sl 1, purl to the end.

Row 2: Sl 1, knit to the end.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 four more times (a total of 10 rows.)

Short Rows

Sl 1, purl to last st, W&T.

Knit to last st, W&T.

Purl to 1 st before end, W&T.

Knit to 1 st before end, W&T.

Purl to 2 sts before end, W&T.

Knit to 2 sts before end, W&T.

Continue working 1 fewer stitch each row until there are 10 sts between the wraps, ending after a knit row. I use Misocrafty’s Short Row Heel Tutorial to eliminate holes, but feel free to use your favorite method of picking up wraps in the next section.

Purl to the first wrap. Pick up the wrap with and leave on right needle. Purl the wrapped stitch and pass the picked up wrap over, as in a psso. Wrap the next stitch again, turn.

Knit to the first knit wrap, pick up the wrap and leave on right needle. Knit the wrapped stitch and pass the picked up wrap over, as in a psso. Wrap the next stitch again, turn.

Purl to the first purl wrap. Pick up the two wraps and leave on right needle. Purl wrapped stitch and pass wraps over, as in a psso. Wrap the next stitch again, turn.

Knit to the next knit wrap. Pick up the two wraps and leave on right needle. Knit wrapped stitch and pass the two wraps over, as in a psso. Wrap the next stitch again, turn.

Continue working wraps until all sts have been worked, ending on a RS row.

Pick Up Stitches

Pick up and knit through the back loops 5 sts along the heel flap, one in each slipped stitch on the edge. Pick up and knit through the back loop 1 stitch in the corner. Place marker.

Return instep stitches to needle. Knit 19, k2tog, knit to end of instep.

Place marker, pick up and knit through the back loops 1 stitch in the corner and 5 sts along the flap. K 13. Place marker for beginning of round (center of the heel.) 38 sts on sole.

Row 1: Knit to 3 stitches before the first marker, k2tog, k1. Knit to the second marker, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round. 2 sts deceased.

Row 2: Knit.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 66 sts remain. (I had intended to do some 1×1 ribbing here during the decreases, just for fun, but I forgot by the time I got to this point. I still think it would look nice, though.)

Next Row: K1, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k3, k2tog, k1, knit across instep, k1, ssk, k3, ssk, k3, ssk, k1. 60 sts.

Leg

Join CC and work Leg Ripple Lace until desired length. Shown 2 ½ repeats, starting on Row 7.

Leg Ripple Lace

Row 1(MC): Knit

Row 2(MC): Purl

Row 3, 5, 7, 9(CC): [k2tog twice, *yo, k1* three times, yo, sl 1 k1 psso twice, k1] around.

Row 4, 6, 8, 10(CC): Knit

Ripple Bind Off

In MC, knit 1 round.

Next Row: K5, in next stitch kf&b twice, kf (5 sts increased),*Knit 11, in next stitch kf&b twice kf*4 times, k6. 85 sts.

Bind off loosely knitwise. Make second sock. 🙂

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested. But they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Wool Mice and Things May 20, 2008

Filed under: Knitting Projects,patterns — Cailyn @ 10:51 pm
Tags: , , , , , ,

Things are finally back to normal around here. There was much visiting of family and fun, although very little knitting. Before disappearing into the strange world of Noyarnia, I mentioned a felted mouse toy that I was making. Well, here he is! (Before and after felting.)

  

I’ve made two sizes of mouse, because my cats like very different toys. Arwen, our older cat, loves big toys that reek of catnip. (She’s a big kitty and she looooves felted wool.)

Kif, our younger and much smaller cat, is indifferent to catnip and only likes toys that he can carry comfortably in his mouth. (He’s hard to get a good picture of.)

Well, enough about my cats. I bet you’re just itching to know how to make one of those mousies.


Felted Mousie

Download the PDF: Felted Mousie

Update 5/23: I’ve fixed the increases for the mouse head. I have no idea what happened when I originally wrote it up- those increases made NO sense. If I didn’t know better, I’d say I was drunk when I wrote it. Anyway, I apologize to anyone who tried to make the mouse with those funky instructions!

Update 5/26: Fixed the number of stitches between the mouse ears. Corrections in purple.

  • Yarn: Any feltable, worsted weight wool (I used Knit Picks Wool of the Andes in Lake Ice Heather) plus a few inches of contrasting yarn for details.
  • Yardage: Small mouse approx 15 yards
  • Large Mouse approx 30 yards
  • Needles: Small mouse, size 7 dpns
  • Large Mouse, size 10 dpns
  • Other materials: Tapestry needle, toy stuffing, catnip, sewing needle and coordinating thread.
  • Gauge: Not really important, since the mouse will be felted.

Prefelted Measurements: Small Mouse, approx 2.25″x3.5″ (not including tail)

Large Mouse, approx 3.25″x5″ (not including tail)

Postfelted Measurements: Small Mouse, approx 1″ x 2.5″ (not including tail)

Large Mouse, approx 2.5″ x 3.5″ (not including tail)

Special Stitches

Make Bobble: Kf&b twice in the next 2 sts. (8 sts increased.) Turn, purl 8 sts just increased. Turn, k 8 sts. Turn, p2tog four times. Turn, k2tog twice. Continue row as instructed.

Mouse Head

For large mouse, work with yarn held doubled. For small mouse, work with one strand.

CO 4 sts to each of 2 needles, using Judy’s Magic Cast On. 8 sts

Round 1,3,5,7,: Knit

Round 2: K1, m1, k2, m1, k2, m1, k2, m1, k1 (4 sts increased.) 12 sts

Rearrange sts as desired.

Round 4: K1, m1, k4, m1, k2, m1, k4, m1, k1 (4 sts increased) 16 sts

Round 6: K1, m1, k6, m1, k2, m1, k6, m1, k1 (4 sts increased) 20 sts

Round 8: K1, m1, k8, m1, k2, m1, k8, m1, k1 (4 sts increased) 24 sts total

Knit 1-2 rounds even. (More rounds give the mouse a longer face.)

Ears

Next round: K2, Make Bobble, k4, Make Bobble, knit to the end of the round.

Knit 3-5 rounds even. If you want a longer mouse body, knit more rounds.

Mouse Butt

Round 1: K1, k2tog, k6, ssk, k2, k2tog, k6, ssk, k1 (4 sts decreased.) 20 sts

Round 2, 4, 6: Knit

Round 3: K1, k2tog, k4, ssk, k2, k2tog, k4, ssk, k1 (4 sts decreased.) 16 sts

Round 5: K1, k2tog, k2, ssk, k2, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1 (4 sts decreased.) 12 sts

Round 7: K1, k2tog, ssk, k2, k2tog, ssk, k1 (4 sts decreased.) 8 sts

K2tog around. (4 sts decreased.) 4 sts

Small Mouse only: K2tog, k2. 3 sts remain.

Tail

Small Mouse: Work 3-st I-cord until tail is at least 2” long.

Large Mouse: Work 4-st I-cord until tail is at least 2″ long. (My cats like a long tail, so I knit the tail about 4″ long.)

Embroider eyes, nose, etc in scrap yarn on the face below the ears.

Felting

The small mouse can be felted by hand in about 10 minutes. Run some hot water (about as hot as you can comfortably stand) in the sink and dip your mouse in. Add some soap to the mouse and start to rub and squish him vigorously between your hands. (This might be a fun thing to make- um, ask your kids do for you.) When your mouse has lost his stitch definition and is the right size (keep felting him to make him smaller,) rinse him in cold water and set him aside to dry.

The larger mouse can be felted by hand (takes a bit longer than the small mouse) or in the washer. If you’ve got any other felting projects, you can throw the mouse in with them.

For more information on machine felting, check out this article on Knitty.

When the mouse is felted and dry, cut a small hole in the underside, stuff with toy stuffing and catnip, sew the opening back up, and give to the cat.

Success!

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you.  They have not been fully tested.  They are free, though. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free.  There may be typos or other mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Shenandoah Socks May 6, 2008

I bought some KnitPicks Essential in the Tuscany colorway a little while ago. Well, 10 months ago, actually. Anyway. I fought with myself, who wanted to buy something in blue or purple, and my other self who said I should expand my palette and get something in red, which I hardly ever do. I’ve had this conversation with myself before. And I imagine you have too. It almost always ends up with something red, orange, olive, etc in my closet or stash that I never wear or use. I like those colors, I do, they just don’t call to me like blue, purple, and green. So, I bought Tuscany instead of Blue Violet and it’s been sitting in my stash ever since. Later, I bought some Black, thinking I would use it in a project for DH, but that never happened. Recently, I had to clean up my stash room- I mean our guest room- and saw those two balls sitting next to each other. Beautiful!

I was flipping through Favorite Socks, as I often am, and I was in love with the look of the Hidden Passion Socks. The stripes, the solid color sole, the band around the ankle… But I’m not that fond of illusion knitting- wait! Inspiration!

After quickly glancing over the instructions for the Hidden Passion Socks, I decided that they were too complicated and that I could obviously make the same thing simpler. (Ever said that to yourself?) Well, I knit up the first sock with surprisingly few hiccups, using the aforementioned Tuscany and Black. Very pleased with myself, I looked back at the Hidden Passion Socks instructions. They were almost identical to my "simpler" instructions! So much for that.

The Tuscany colorway reminds me of the leaves in autumn in my native Virginia. I really miss those beautiful colors here in Seattle. Hence, naming these socks Shenandoah, despite the difficult spelling, lol. I love the construction of these socks, so unusual and interesting. I’m planning on knitting up a few other designs based on the same principles, so I think these socks are going to be the first in a series.

Shenandoah uses a slip stitch pattern on the foot and leg. Slip stitch is an easy colorwork technique, because you’re only using one color per row. Shenandoah is essentially a toe up sock, but isn’t knit in the round between the toe and heel. After completing the increases for the toe normally, the instep stitches are worked separately. Then the sole is knit while joining it to the instep. A "heel flap" is knit, turned, and stitches are picked up along the flap, just like a top-down sock. The gusset is decreased, then the stitch pattern resumes for the leg. I swear I wrote down every detail while I was knitting these… but when I went to type it up, some of those details weren’t there. I’ve tried to be as accurate as I can, but if you find any mistakes or are confused by anything, please let me know!

Shenandoah Socks

Download the PDF: Shenandoah Socks

  • Finished Size: Women’s 9 (foot length 9.5")
  • Needles: 2 Size 1 (2.25) circular needles; 2 Size 0 circular needles-optional
  • Yarn: KnitPicks Essential: MC – Black (2 balls), CC – Tuscany (1 ball)
  • Yardage: Black, 340 yards; Tuscany, 120 yards
  • Extras: Stitch markers, stitch holder or scrap yarn, tapestry needle
  • Gauge: 8 sts x 11 rows= 1" in stockinette

Special Stitches

wyif: with yarn held in front, as in "slip 1 st with yarn held in front"

wyib: with yarn held in front, as in "slip 1 st with yarn held in front"

SSLK: Slip the last stitch knitwise, pick up the two loops of the next slipped stitch on the instep, slip the two loops purlwise, insert right needle into the front loops of the two loops and the slipped stitch and knit all 3 together. (A modified Slip, Slip, Knit.)

SSLP: Slip the last stitch knitwise, pick up the two loops of the next slipped stitch on the instep, slip the two loops knitwise, return the two loops and the slipped stitch to left needle, and purl all 3 together. (A modified Slip, Slip, Purl.)

Toe

Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, CO 12 sts to each needle in MC. 24 sts

The starting needle (Needle 1) is the top/instep. The second needle (Needle 2) is the bottom/sole.

Round 1: Knit.

Round 2: K1, M1, knit to last st on Needle 1, m1, k2, m1, knit to last st on Needle 2, m1, k1. 4 sts increased.

Repeat Round 1 and 2 until there are 64 sts total, 32 sts on each needle.

Instep

Place the sole sts (Needle 2) on a stitch holder or scrap yarn. You can also pull the sts to the cable section of your circular needle, but I find that the dangling needle ends get in the way. You will now be working back and forth on Needle 1.

Tip: Pull slipped stitches tight on the needle to reduce holes.

Row 1: Sl 1 wyib, k15, m1, k16. 1 st increased. 33 sts

Row 2: Sl 1 wyif, purl all sts.

Row 1 and 2 count as the first 2 rows of the slip stitch pattern for the first repeat.

Join CC. Don’t cut MC, just twist the two yarns together on the WS before each knit row to carry the MC yarn upwards. To twist the yarns, place the carried yarn over or under the working yarn and knit first stitch as normal. The MC yarn should be caught between the CC yarn and the work. When you’re done, you get a nice dotted line of MC yarn up the right-hand side of the work. Make sure that the last MC and CC slipped sts are snug; they can become loose waiting until the next MC or CC row, but don’t pull them too tight.

Start Slip Stitch Pattern (Foot) on Row 3Odd rows are RS, even rows are WS.

Slip Stitch Pattern (Foot):

Row 1 (MC): Sl 1 wyib, k1, *sl 1 wyif, k1* until 3 sts before the end, sl 1 wyif, k2.

Row 2 (MC): Sl 1 wyif, purl all sts.

Row 3 (CC): Sl 1, k1, *k1, sl1 wyif* until 3 sts before the end, k3.

Row 4 (CC): Sl 1 wyif, purl all sts.

Row 5 (CC): Sl 1 wyib, knit all sts.

Row 6 (CC): Sl 1 wyif, purl all sts.

Repeat these 6 rows until instep measures 7.25”, or 2.25” shorter than desired foot length, from the tip of the toe, ending after a WS row. Cut MC and CC yarns.

Place instep sts on a stitch holder or scrap yarn. Return sole sts to a needle. You’ll now be working back and forth on the new needle. Join MC yarn with the RS of the sole facing you. (Ignore the markers in the following picture.)

Sole/"Heel Flap"

Row 1 (RS): With the left needle, pick up the two loops of the first slipped stitch on the instep and move them (correctly mounted) to the right hand needle. Knit the two picked up loops together with the first stitch on the needle. Knit to 1 st before the end of the needle, SSLK.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl to last st, SSLP.

Row 3: Sl 1, knit to last st, SSLK.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until all slipped sts have been used, ending after a RS row (do not use sts on the stitch holder or scrap yarn.) (Ignore the markers in the following picture.)

  

Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, p27. Place last 4 sts onto the stitch holder or scrap yarn. 1 st decreased. 28 sts on needle.

Row 5 (RS): Sl 1, k23. Place last 4 sts onto the stitch holder or scrap yarn. 24 sts on needle.

These 24 stitches will be the bottom of the heel; this would be the heel flap if we were making a top-down sock.

Row 6 (WS): Sl 1, purl all sts.

Row 7 (RS): Sl 1, knit all sts.

Repeat Rows 6 and 7 until the sole measures 9”, or .5” shorter than desired foot length, from the toe of the sock, ending after Row 6.

Heel Turn:

Row 1: Sl 1, k16, ssk, turn.

Row 2: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, turn.

Row 3: Sl 1, k8, ssk, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until all sts have been worked, ending after Row 2. 10 sts remain.

Knit across all sts on needle. Pick up and knit 1 st in each slipped stitch along the “heel flap.” Return all held sts to needles. Place a marker between the last picked up stitch and the first held stitch. Knit across 4 held sole sts, all instep sts, and the other 4 held sole sts. Place a marker between the last held stitch and the first picked up stitch. Pick up and knit 1 st in each slipped stitch along the “heel flap.” Knit 5 stitches from the heel and mark as the beginning of the round.

Gusset Decreases:

Row 1: Knit to 3 stitches before the first marker, k2tog, k1. Knit to the second marker, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round. 2 sts deceased.

Row 2: Knit.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 64 sts remain.

Join CC. Row 1 and 2 count as the first 2 rows of the slip stitch pattern for the first repeat. Start Slip Stitch Pattern (Leg) on Row 3.

Slip Stitch Pattern (Leg):

Row 1(MC): *sl 1 wyif, k1*

Row 2(MC): Knit

Row 3(CC): *k1, sl1 wyif*

Row 4, 5, 6(CC): Knit

Repeat Rows 1-6 until leg is desired length (7 repeats shown in photos.)

Switch to smaller needles if desired.

Work 15 rounds k1 p1.

BO very loosely.

  

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested. But they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

2nd Verse, Same as the First May 3, 2008

I made these gloves for my great mother-in-law for Christmas last year. They were a big hit. I was riding high from my success with my Snowflake Gloves and loving the two-color knitting. These gloves were an attempt to blend the Fair Isle style with traditional southwestern designs instead of snowflakes and diamonds. Although I did add in some “pine branches” in the corners to keep the Fair Isle relationship obvious. (To be honest, though, I think they could just as easily be arrows.) I spend a lot of time looking at Navajo and Pueblo pottery for the pattern bands and palm. DH helped me pick out the colors; originally, they were going to have some dark green and maybe some terra cotta brown. Even while I was knitting these, I wasn’t entirely happy with the colors. It wasn’t until the very end that I saw it come together.

These gloves are shorter that the Snowflake Gloves and only use 6 colors (only, ha!) The basic construction is the same, with a thumb gusset that’s made by increasing stitches every 3rd row and then placed on a holder to be knit later. (Called a sore thumb, or basic thumb gusset. Take a look here at the Knitting in Color blog for more info about this type of thumb.)

 

I spent all yesterday shining up the pattern so that it’s readable by someone sane. I also changed some of the wording in the Snowflake Gloves, so you might want to give it another look. This pattern hasn’t been tested yet, so if you find a problem, please let me know! Oh, also, I didn’t record the yardage when I knit either the Snowflake Gloves or the Albuquerque Gloves (I wasn’t thinking about publishing them when I first knit them) so if a brave knitter would like to record their yardage, I would be eternally grateful. (As would the other knitters!)

 

Edit 8/20/08: Fixed some minor errors.  Fixes are in purple.  I’ve figured out how to publish chart better now, so I’m publishing the pattern on the blog, straight-up as it were.  PDF is still floating around on my computer, if you’d like it, please email me.

Edit 10/22/08: Putting PDF back up for those that would like it.  Easier to print and whatnot.

 

Finally, I give you….( drum roll, please!):

 

Albuquerque Gloves

 

Download the PDF: Albuquerque Gloves

 

This pattern is written for 1 long circular needle (magic loop method) but is easily worked on DPNs or 2 circs. I suggest DPNs for the thumb, though. There are separate charts for the right and left glove for easier knitting. To make finishing less painful, weave in ends as you go by twisting/wrapping the last yarn for 10-15 sts on the new row. I join a new color 10- 15 sts early (the row before it appears on the chart) and carry it along, twisting/wrapping it every other st. This helps eliminate holes at the sides. The exact yardage of yarn is unknown, but the all colors need less than 1 ball, the A colors less than 1/2.

 

I recommend marking the increases for the thumb with two stitch markers: place the first one before the first YO and the second one after the second YO on the first increase row. Slip the markers every row after this; it will make it easier to know which stitches to put on the scrap yarn.

 

You may notice that the geometric patterns don’t quite match up at the sides- the patterns were so perfect but wouldn’t fit perfectly, so I fudged. The break in the pattern is hardly noticeable on the finished glove. The gloves are meant to be snug, but not too tight, so be aware of the tension.

 

These gloves can be knitted from the charts alone, but I have written out the instructions for rows with increases, decreases, or other things that need attention. If there are no written instructions for a row, follow the chart until the next written row.  Charts jpgs are at the end of the written instructions.

 

  • Needles: Size 1 (2.25mm) long circular or DPNs
  • Yarn: Knit Picks Palette: A1 Garnet (1 ball), A2 Salsa (1 ball), A3 Golden (1 ball); B1 Sky (1 ball), B2 Pool (1 ball), B3 Blue Note (1 ball)
  • Notions: Scrap yarn, stitch markers
  • Gauge: 9sts/in, 10rows/in
  • Finished Size: Women’s Small/Medium

Special Stitches

YO Increase: YO where indicated on the chart, in the color on the chart. On the next row, knit the YO through the back loop to twist the stitch and eliminate the hole.  You can use M1 if you prefer; personally, I couldn’t stand trying to M1 with floats in the way.

K1 P1 Rib: *K1, p1* repeat from * to * until the end of the round.

 

Hand

CO 54 sts loosely in B2 (Pool).

Work K1 P1 Rib for 12 rows.

Switch to B3 (Blue Note).

Round 1: K2, yo, *k7, yo* 7 times, k3. 8 sts increased. 62 sts

Divide sts so that “Needle 1” has 32 sts and “Needle 2” has 30 sts.

Work Left Chart until Round 13 is completed.

Round 14: Knit in pattern to the end of “Needle 1.” Place first marker and make YO increase in color on chart. On “Needle 2,” make YO increase in color on chart, place second marker and continue knitting in pattern.

Work Left Chart, making YO increases in colors shown on chart every third row, until 18 sts have been increased. 80 sts

Round 40: Knit in pattern to first thumb marker. Slide thumb sts (careful with the 2 YOs) onto waste yarn or a stitch holder. CO 2 sts in the gap in B1 (Sky) using backwards loop method, one st on each needle, knit to end of “Needle 2” in pattern. 2 sts increased. 64 sts

Round 43: Knit to 2 sts before the end of “Needle 1” in pattern, ssk. On “Needle 2,” k2tog, knit to the end in pattern. 2 sts decreased. 62 sts

Work chart until Round 55 is completed.

Round 56: K3, *k2tog, k6* 7 times, k2tog. 8 sts decreased. 54 sts

Switch to B2 (Pool.)

Work K1 P1 Rib for 5 rows.

Cast off with medium tension.

 

Thumb

Return held sts to needles. DPNs are recommended here.

Join B2 (Pool,) leaving a long tail, to the palm side of the thumb. Using working yarn and tail held together, pull up a loop in one stitch in the corner between needle and earlier cast on sts, pull up a loop in each of the 2 cast on sts across the gap and 1 more loop in the other corner. 4 sts increased. Knit across remaining sts, knitting the 2 YOs through the back loops. 22 sts

Round 1: *k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog* twice. 4 sts decreased. 18 sts

Work 8 rounds K1 P1 Rib. Cast off loosely.

For the right glove: Work Right Chart, with 32 sts on Needle 1 and 30 sts on Needle 2. All instructions are the same.

 

Click on the charts to see them full size.

Left Chart   Right Chart

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested. But they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Post 2- This time it’s personal. April 30, 2008

Filed under: Knitting Projects,patterns — Cailyn @ 10:16 am
Tags: , , , , ,

So, when I was typing the title up there, I accidentally wrote "thyme" instead of "time." I’m not sure what sort of spice-based sequel my subconscious was hoping for, but it ain’t gonna happen.

 

Anyway. I promised a pattern today, and I shall deliver! Typos and grammatical mistakes will not deter me from my goal. (So you typos can just go away now and stop making me delete so much, right?)

These are my Snowflake Fingerless Gloves. They’re my second colorwork project and I love them to death. There are seven colors, in KnitPicks Palette, knit on one long circular using the magic loop. I designed them in Excel which is so much easier than the old graph-paper-and-colored-pencils method. All hail the copy-paste! These gloves were so much fun to knit (even though there were a few too many ends to weave in.)

I should mention, I didn’t intend to use black as the center color. I had gotten another shade of blue, but it was too similar to the contrasting color. I had black left over from another project and I wasn’t about to wait for more yarn to arrive to finally knit these things! I think the black really adds something now, which just goes to show that serendipity is alive and well.

These gloves have always kept me nice and toasty. They go a fair way up my fingers, so even the tips of my fingers stay pretty warm. (And I don’t have to take them off to knit in the cold!)

 

I’ve written down the instructions and the charts in a PDF, including some tips and more information.

Edit 8/20/08: I’ve figured out how to publish chart better now, so I’m publishing the pattern on the blog, straight-up as it were.  PDF is still floating around on my computer, if you’d like it, please email me.

 Edit 10/22/08: Putting PDF back up for those that would like it.  Easier to print and whatnot.

 

The pattern assumes some knowledge of knitting in the round, 2-color knitting, and general glove construction, but I’d like to think that it’s easily followed by a "newbie." Of course, let me know if it’s not! Please tell me if you find any mistakes or typos in the pattern. And I’m happy to answer any questions; this is my first "published" pattern and I’d like everyone to be as happy with it as I am.

 

Well, that paragraph ended rather sappily. I don’t think sappily is a word. I knew I would have to end the post on a grammatical error since I started on a typo… the symmetry is nice, don’t you think?

 

Snowflake Fingerless Gloves

Download the PDF: Snowflake Fingerless Gloves

 

This pattern is written for 1 long circular needle (magic loop method) but is easily worked on 2 circulars or DPNs. I suggest DPNs for the thumb. There are separate charts for the right and left glove for easier knitting. To make finishing less painful, weave in ends as you go by twisting/wrapping the last yarn for 10-15 sts on the new row. I join a new color 10- 15 sts early (the row before it appears on the chart) and carry it along, twisting/wrapping it every other st. This helps eliminate holes at the sides. The exact yardage of yarn is unknown, but the all colors need less than 1 ball, the A colors less than 1/2.

 

I recommend marking the increases for the thumb with two stitch markers: place the first one before the first YO and the second one after the second YO on the first increase row. Slip the markers every row after this; it will make it easier to know which stitches to put on the scrap yarn.

 

You may notice that the diamond motif doesn’t quite match up at the sides- I loved the motif but couldn’t get it to fit perfectly, so I fudged. The break in the pattern is hardly noticeable on the finished glove. The gloves are meant to be snug, but not too tight, so be aware of the tension.

 

These gloves can mostly be knitted from the charts alone, but I have written out the instructions for rows with increases, decreases, or other things that need attention. If there are no written instructions for a row, follow the chart until the next written row.  The charts are below the written instructions.

 

  • Needles: Size 1 (2.25mm) long circular or DPNs
  • Yarn: Knit Picks Palette: A1 Tidepool, A2 Sky, A3 Pool, A4 Mist; B1 Black, B2 Marine, B3 Blue Note
  • Notions: Scrap yarn, stitch markers, tapestry needle
  • Gauge: 9sts x 10rows = 1"
  • Finished Size: Women’s medium, 8 1/2" long (7 3/4" when worn)

Errata

1/27/10- Fixed chart key so that A2 and A3 read correctly.  Added separate instructions for the right glove.  Changed numbers on the bottom of the charts to read correctly right-left.  Fixed Round 54’s written instructions to match the charts.

Special Stitches

YO Increase: YO where indicated on the chart, in the color on the chart. On the next row, knit the YO through the back loop to twist the stitch and eliminate the hole.  You can use M1 if you prefer; personally, I couldn’t stand trying to M1 with floats in the way.

K1 P1 Rib: *K1, p1* repeat from * to * until the end of the round.

 

Left Hand

CO 56 sts loosely in B3 (Blue Note).

Work K1 P1 Rib for 12 rows.

Switch to A1 (Tidepool).

Round 1: K4, yo, *k7, yo* 7 times, k3. 8 sts increased. 64 sts

Divide sts so that "Needle 1" has 33 sts and "Needle 2" has 31 sts.

Work Left Chart until Round 28 is completed.

Round 29: Knit in pattern to the end of "Needle 1." Place first marker and make YO increase in color on chart. On "Needle 2," make YO increase in color on chart, place second marker and continue knitting in pattern.

Work Left Chart, making YO increases in colors shown on chart every third row, until 18 sts have been increased.

Round 54: Knit in pattern to first thumb marker. Slide thumb sts (careful with the 2 YOs) onto waste yarn or a stitch holder. CO 2 sts in the gap in A3 (Pool) using backwards loop method, one st on each needle, knit to end of "Needle 2" in pattern. 2 sts increased. 66 sts

Round 57: Knit to 2 sts before the end of Needle 1 in pattern, ssk. On Needle 2, k2tog, knit to the end in pattern. 2 sts decreased. 62 sts

Work Left Chart until Round 72 is completed.

Round 73: K2tog, *k6, k2tog* 7 times, k6. 8 sts decreased. 56 sts

Switch to B3 (Blue Note.)

Work K1 P1 Rib for 5 rows.

Cast off with medium tension.

 

Right Hand

CO 56 sts loosely in B3 (Blue Note).

Work K1 P1 Rib for 12 rows.

Switch to A1 (Tidepool).

Round 1: K4, yo, *k7, yo* 7 times, k3. 8 sts increased. 64 sts

Divide sts so that "Needle 1" has 31 sts and "Needle 2" has 33 sts.

Work Right Chart until Round 28 is completed.

Round 29: Knit in pattern to the end of "Needle 1." Place first marker and make YO increase in color on chart. On "Needle 2," make YO increase in color on chart, place second marker and continue knitting in pattern.

Work Right Chart, making YO increases in colors shown on chart every third row, until 18 sts have been increased.

Round 54: Knit in pattern to first thumb marker. Slide thumb sts (careful with the 2 YOs) onto waste yarn or a stitch holder. CO 2 sts in the gap in A3 (Pool) using backwards loop method, one st on each needle, knit to end of "Needle 2" in pattern. 2 sts increased. 66 sts

Round 57: Knit to 2 sts before the end of Needle 1 in pattern, ssk. On Needle 2, k2tog, knit to the end in pattern. 2 sts decreased. 62 sts

Work Right Chart until Round 72 is completed.

Round 73: K2tog, *k6, k2tog* 7 times, k6. 8 sts decreased. 56 sts

Switch to B3 (Blue Note.)

Work K1 P1 Rib for 5 rows.

Cast off with medium tension.

 

Thumb (same for both hands)

Return held sts to needles. DPNs are recommended here.

Join B2 (Pool,) leaving a long tail, to the palm side of the thumb. Using working yarn and tail held together, pull up a loop in one st in the corner between needle and earlier cast on sts, pull up a loop in each of the 2 cast on sts across the gap and 1 more loop in the other corner. 4 sts increased. Knit across remaining sts, knitting the 2 YOs through the back loops. 22 sts

Row 2: *k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog* twice. 4 sts decreased. 18 sts

Work 8 rows K1 P1 Rib. Cast off loosely.

 

Click on the charts to see them full size.

 

Snowflake Color Left     Snowflake Color Right   Snowflake Color Key

 Snowflake Symbol Left    Snowflake Symbol Right   Snowflake Symbol Key

 

Please Note: I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions for this pattern are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.