The Daily Skein

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Shenandoah Socks May 6, 2008

I bought some KnitPicks Essential in the Tuscany colorway a little while ago. Well, 10 months ago, actually. Anyway. I fought with myself, who wanted to buy something in blue or purple, and my other self who said I should expand my palette and get something in red, which I hardly ever do. I’ve had this conversation with myself before. And I imagine you have too. It almost always ends up with something red, orange, olive, etc in my closet or stash that I never wear or use. I like those colors, I do, they just don’t call to me like blue, purple, and green. So, I bought Tuscany instead of Blue Violet and it’s been sitting in my stash ever since. Later, I bought some Black, thinking I would use it in a project for DH, but that never happened. Recently, I had to clean up my stash room- I mean our guest room- and saw those two balls sitting next to each other. Beautiful!

I was flipping through Favorite Socks, as I often am, and I was in love with the look of the Hidden Passion Socks. The stripes, the solid color sole, the band around the ankle… But I’m not that fond of illusion knitting- wait! Inspiration!

After quickly glancing over the instructions for the Hidden Passion Socks, I decided that they were too complicated and that I could obviously make the same thing simpler. (Ever said that to yourself?) Well, I knit up the first sock with surprisingly few hiccups, using the aforementioned Tuscany and Black. Very pleased with myself, I looked back at the Hidden Passion Socks instructions. They were almost identical to my "simpler" instructions! So much for that.

The Tuscany colorway reminds me of the leaves in autumn in my native Virginia. I really miss those beautiful colors here in Seattle. Hence, naming these socks Shenandoah, despite the difficult spelling, lol. I love the construction of these socks, so unusual and interesting. I’m planning on knitting up a few other designs based on the same principles, so I think these socks are going to be the first in a series.

Shenandoah uses a slip stitch pattern on the foot and leg. Slip stitch is an easy colorwork technique, because you’re only using one color per row. Shenandoah is essentially a toe up sock, but isn’t knit in the round between the toe and heel. After completing the increases for the toe normally, the instep stitches are worked separately. Then the sole is knit while joining it to the instep. A "heel flap" is knit, turned, and stitches are picked up along the flap, just like a top-down sock. The gusset is decreased, then the stitch pattern resumes for the leg. I swear I wrote down every detail while I was knitting these… but when I went to type it up, some of those details weren’t there. I’ve tried to be as accurate as I can, but if you find any mistakes or are confused by anything, please let me know!

Shenandoah Socks

Download the PDF: Shenandoah Socks

  • Finished Size: Women’s 9 (foot length 9.5")
  • Needles: 2 Size 1 (2.25) circular needles; 2 Size 0 circular needles-optional
  • Yarn: KnitPicks Essential: MC – Black (2 balls), CC – Tuscany (1 ball)
  • Yardage: Black, 340 yards; Tuscany, 120 yards
  • Extras: Stitch markers, stitch holder or scrap yarn, tapestry needle
  • Gauge: 8 sts x 11 rows= 1" in stockinette

Special Stitches

wyif: with yarn held in front, as in "slip 1 st with yarn held in front"

wyib: with yarn held in front, as in "slip 1 st with yarn held in front"

SSLK: Slip the last stitch knitwise, pick up the two loops of the next slipped stitch on the instep, slip the two loops purlwise, insert right needle into the front loops of the two loops and the slipped stitch and knit all 3 together. (A modified Slip, Slip, Knit.)

SSLP: Slip the last stitch knitwise, pick up the two loops of the next slipped stitch on the instep, slip the two loops knitwise, return the two loops and the slipped stitch to left needle, and purl all 3 together. (A modified Slip, Slip, Purl.)

Toe

Using Judy’s Magic Cast On, CO 12 sts to each needle in MC. 24 sts

The starting needle (Needle 1) is the top/instep. The second needle (Needle 2) is the bottom/sole.

Round 1: Knit.

Round 2: K1, M1, knit to last st on Needle 1, m1, k2, m1, knit to last st on Needle 2, m1, k1. 4 sts increased.

Repeat Round 1 and 2 until there are 64 sts total, 32 sts on each needle.

Instep

Place the sole sts (Needle 2) on a stitch holder or scrap yarn. You can also pull the sts to the cable section of your circular needle, but I find that the dangling needle ends get in the way. You will now be working back and forth on Needle 1.

Tip: Pull slipped stitches tight on the needle to reduce holes.

Row 1: Sl 1 wyib, k15, m1, k16. 1 st increased. 33 sts

Row 2: Sl 1 wyif, purl all sts.

Row 1 and 2 count as the first 2 rows of the slip stitch pattern for the first repeat.

Join CC. Don’t cut MC, just twist the two yarns together on the WS before each knit row to carry the MC yarn upwards. To twist the yarns, place the carried yarn over or under the working yarn and knit first stitch as normal. The MC yarn should be caught between the CC yarn and the work. When you’re done, you get a nice dotted line of MC yarn up the right-hand side of the work. Make sure that the last MC and CC slipped sts are snug; they can become loose waiting until the next MC or CC row, but don’t pull them too tight.

Start Slip Stitch Pattern (Foot) on Row 3Odd rows are RS, even rows are WS.

Slip Stitch Pattern (Foot):

Row 1 (MC): Sl 1 wyib, k1, *sl 1 wyif, k1* until 3 sts before the end, sl 1 wyif, k2.

Row 2 (MC): Sl 1 wyif, purl all sts.

Row 3 (CC): Sl 1, k1, *k1, sl1 wyif* until 3 sts before the end, k3.

Row 4 (CC): Sl 1 wyif, purl all sts.

Row 5 (CC): Sl 1 wyib, knit all sts.

Row 6 (CC): Sl 1 wyif, purl all sts.

Repeat these 6 rows until instep measures 7.25”, or 2.25” shorter than desired foot length, from the tip of the toe, ending after a WS row. Cut MC and CC yarns.

Place instep sts on a stitch holder or scrap yarn. Return sole sts to a needle. You’ll now be working back and forth on the new needle. Join MC yarn with the RS of the sole facing you. (Ignore the markers in the following picture.)

Sole/"Heel Flap"

Row 1 (RS): With the left needle, pick up the two loops of the first slipped stitch on the instep and move them (correctly mounted) to the right hand needle. Knit the two picked up loops together with the first stitch on the needle. Knit to 1 st before the end of the needle, SSLK.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, purl to last st, SSLP.

Row 3: Sl 1, knit to last st, SSLK.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until all slipped sts have been used, ending after a RS row (do not use sts on the stitch holder or scrap yarn.) (Ignore the markers in the following picture.)

  

Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, p27. Place last 4 sts onto the stitch holder or scrap yarn. 1 st decreased. 28 sts on needle.

Row 5 (RS): Sl 1, k23. Place last 4 sts onto the stitch holder or scrap yarn. 24 sts on needle.

These 24 stitches will be the bottom of the heel; this would be the heel flap if we were making a top-down sock.

Row 6 (WS): Sl 1, purl all sts.

Row 7 (RS): Sl 1, knit all sts.

Repeat Rows 6 and 7 until the sole measures 9”, or .5” shorter than desired foot length, from the toe of the sock, ending after Row 6.

Heel Turn:

Row 1: Sl 1, k16, ssk, turn.

Row 2: Sl 1, p8, p2tog, turn.

Row 3: Sl 1, k8, ssk, turn.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until all sts have been worked, ending after Row 2. 10 sts remain.

Knit across all sts on needle. Pick up and knit 1 st in each slipped stitch along the “heel flap.” Return all held sts to needles. Place a marker between the last picked up stitch and the first held stitch. Knit across 4 held sole sts, all instep sts, and the other 4 held sole sts. Place a marker between the last held stitch and the first picked up stitch. Pick up and knit 1 st in each slipped stitch along the “heel flap.” Knit 5 stitches from the heel and mark as the beginning of the round.

Gusset Decreases:

Row 1: Knit to 3 stitches before the first marker, k2tog, k1. Knit to the second marker, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round. 2 sts deceased.

Row 2: Knit.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until 64 sts remain.

Join CC. Row 1 and 2 count as the first 2 rows of the slip stitch pattern for the first repeat. Start Slip Stitch Pattern (Leg) on Row 3.

Slip Stitch Pattern (Leg):

Row 1(MC): *sl 1 wyif, k1*

Row 2(MC): Knit

Row 3(CC): *k1, sl1 wyif*

Row 4, 5, 6(CC): Knit

Repeat Rows 1-6 until leg is desired length (7 repeats shown in photos.)

Switch to smaller needles if desired.

Work 15 rounds k1 p1.

BO very loosely.

  

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested. But they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

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Weaving in Ends May 5, 2008

Filed under: knitting tutorials,Tutorials — Cailyn @ 7:51 pm
Tags: ,

Hate dealing with the nightmare of weaving in ends? Are leftover strands of yarn ruining your life? Do you have two, three, or even seven projects unfinished because of this problem? Ask your doctor about Weavendix, the revolutionary drug to solve this problem for you!

Or you can just look at my tutorial.

Weaving in ends as you knit is perhaps the best trick I’ve ever learned to help my knitting. I use it all the time, whether I’m just joining a new ball or joining a new color. If you’ve done a lot of colorwork, you probably do this all the time, but might not realize the full extent of its usefulness! I didn’t. I particularly love using this trick when I’m working Fair Isle in the round, because if you weave in the new tail before the end of the current round, there are no holes on the side when you switch colors. I mention this technique in my Fingerless Gloves patterns, so master this to make those patterns easier. Without further ado:

I’ve set up these pictures with a small piece of knitting in the round in green on one circular needle. I’m about 3/4 of the way done with the round and it’s time to join a new color, in this case grey. I’ll show the “easy” way to do this first, then right/left handed instructions that are a little faster. It’s essentially the same no matter which way you do it.

Step One: Place your new yarn (grey) over your working yarn (green), leaving a short tail (since you won’t need to weave the tail in, you don’t need a long one, although you can still weave the tail in, if you’re worried about security. I’ve certainly never done that. *cough*) The tail should be on the right.

Step Two: Without moving the new yarn, knit your next stitch as normal. Tada! The new yarn is now trapped (although not yet locked in, it needs a few more stitches.)

Step Three: Grab the new yarn and move it over the working yarn. Without moving the new yarn, knit your next stitch.

Step Four: Move the new yarn under the working yarn. Insert your needle into the next stitch, then go under the new yarn and grab the working yarn to complete your stitch.

Just repeat steps three and four until you reach the point of knitting with the new yarn!

Now, for a slightly faster way. The basic idea is the same, (actually it’s exactly the same) but instead of dropping the new yarn each time, you “weave” by wrapping the new yarn around the needle. I learned this technique here: Sock Pron. The right and left instructions are essentially identical, but I’ll put up pictures for both. If you can knit with both hands, it’s great to work the new yarn in your other hand (in my case, my right hand, but that’s not shown.)

Right-handed knitters:

Setup: Knit to the point of joining the new yarn. Insert the needle into the next stitch. Hold the tail of the new yarn against the project and *drape the new yarn from right to left over the needle.

Wrap the working yarn around the needle as normal…

and pull the working yarn under the new yarn and through the stitch.

Knit the next stitch as normal.*

Repeat from * to * until you’re done! It doesn’t matter whether you end on a draping stitch or a plain knit stitch.

Left-handed knitters (near and dear to my heart):

Setup: Knit to the point of joining the new yarn. Insert the needle into the next stitch. Hold the tail of the new yarn against the project and *drape the new yarn from right to left over the needle.

Wrap the working yarn around the needle as normal and pull the working yarn under the new yarn and through the stitch.

Knit the next stitch as normal.*

Repeat from * to * until you’re done! Again, it doesn’t matter whether you end on a draping stitch or a plain knit stitch.

You might have noticed that what you’re doing is wrapping the new yarn in the opposite direction that you wrap the working yarn to make a stitch. Pretty cool, huh?

This is what the work looks like on the the from and back when you’re done. Sometimes this method works better than other times; if the two yarns are very different colors (like black and white) you might be able to see the woven yarn through the work. (That happened to me.) This can also be a problem if the gauge is really loose. But overall, this is a great technique to make colorwork or just finishing easier!

 

2nd Verse, Same as the First May 3, 2008

I made these gloves for my great mother-in-law for Christmas last year. They were a big hit. I was riding high from my success with my Snowflake Gloves and loving the two-color knitting. These gloves were an attempt to blend the Fair Isle style with traditional southwestern designs instead of snowflakes and diamonds. Although I did add in some “pine branches” in the corners to keep the Fair Isle relationship obvious. (To be honest, though, I think they could just as easily be arrows.) I spend a lot of time looking at Navajo and Pueblo pottery for the pattern bands and palm. DH helped me pick out the colors; originally, they were going to have some dark green and maybe some terra cotta brown. Even while I was knitting these, I wasn’t entirely happy with the colors. It wasn’t until the very end that I saw it come together.

These gloves are shorter that the Snowflake Gloves and only use 6 colors (only, ha!) The basic construction is the same, with a thumb gusset that’s made by increasing stitches every 3rd row and then placed on a holder to be knit later. (Called a sore thumb, or basic thumb gusset. Take a look here at the Knitting in Color blog for more info about this type of thumb.)

 

I spent all yesterday shining up the pattern so that it’s readable by someone sane. I also changed some of the wording in the Snowflake Gloves, so you might want to give it another look. This pattern hasn’t been tested yet, so if you find a problem, please let me know! Oh, also, I didn’t record the yardage when I knit either the Snowflake Gloves or the Albuquerque Gloves (I wasn’t thinking about publishing them when I first knit them) so if a brave knitter would like to record their yardage, I would be eternally grateful. (As would the other knitters!)

 

Edit 8/20/08: Fixed some minor errors.  Fixes are in purple.  I’ve figured out how to publish chart better now, so I’m publishing the pattern on the blog, straight-up as it were.  PDF is still floating around on my computer, if you’d like it, please email me.

Edit 10/22/08: Putting PDF back up for those that would like it.  Easier to print and whatnot.

 

Finally, I give you….( drum roll, please!):

 

Albuquerque Gloves

 

Download the PDF: Albuquerque Gloves

 

This pattern is written for 1 long circular needle (magic loop method) but is easily worked on DPNs or 2 circs. I suggest DPNs for the thumb, though. There are separate charts for the right and left glove for easier knitting. To make finishing less painful, weave in ends as you go by twisting/wrapping the last yarn for 10-15 sts on the new row. I join a new color 10- 15 sts early (the row before it appears on the chart) and carry it along, twisting/wrapping it every other st. This helps eliminate holes at the sides. The exact yardage of yarn is unknown, but the all colors need less than 1 ball, the A colors less than 1/2.

 

I recommend marking the increases for the thumb with two stitch markers: place the first one before the first YO and the second one after the second YO on the first increase row. Slip the markers every row after this; it will make it easier to know which stitches to put on the scrap yarn.

 

You may notice that the geometric patterns don’t quite match up at the sides- the patterns were so perfect but wouldn’t fit perfectly, so I fudged. The break in the pattern is hardly noticeable on the finished glove. The gloves are meant to be snug, but not too tight, so be aware of the tension.

 

These gloves can be knitted from the charts alone, but I have written out the instructions for rows with increases, decreases, or other things that need attention. If there are no written instructions for a row, follow the chart until the next written row.  Charts jpgs are at the end of the written instructions.

 

  • Needles: Size 1 (2.25mm) long circular or DPNs
  • Yarn: Knit Picks Palette: A1 Garnet (1 ball), A2 Salsa (1 ball), A3 Golden (1 ball); B1 Sky (1 ball), B2 Pool (1 ball), B3 Blue Note (1 ball)
  • Notions: Scrap yarn, stitch markers
  • Gauge: 9sts/in, 10rows/in
  • Finished Size: Women’s Small/Medium

Special Stitches

YO Increase: YO where indicated on the chart, in the color on the chart. On the next row, knit the YO through the back loop to twist the stitch and eliminate the hole.  You can use M1 if you prefer; personally, I couldn’t stand trying to M1 with floats in the way.

K1 P1 Rib: *K1, p1* repeat from * to * until the end of the round.

 

Hand

CO 54 sts loosely in B2 (Pool).

Work K1 P1 Rib for 12 rows.

Switch to B3 (Blue Note).

Round 1: K2, yo, *k7, yo* 7 times, k3. 8 sts increased. 62 sts

Divide sts so that “Needle 1” has 32 sts and “Needle 2” has 30 sts.

Work Left Chart until Round 13 is completed.

Round 14: Knit in pattern to the end of “Needle 1.” Place first marker and make YO increase in color on chart. On “Needle 2,” make YO increase in color on chart, place second marker and continue knitting in pattern.

Work Left Chart, making YO increases in colors shown on chart every third row, until 18 sts have been increased. 80 sts

Round 40: Knit in pattern to first thumb marker. Slide thumb sts (careful with the 2 YOs) onto waste yarn or a stitch holder. CO 2 sts in the gap in B1 (Sky) using backwards loop method, one st on each needle, knit to end of “Needle 2” in pattern. 2 sts increased. 64 sts

Round 43: Knit to 2 sts before the end of “Needle 1” in pattern, ssk. On “Needle 2,” k2tog, knit to the end in pattern. 2 sts decreased. 62 sts

Work chart until Round 55 is completed.

Round 56: K3, *k2tog, k6* 7 times, k2tog. 8 sts decreased. 54 sts

Switch to B2 (Pool.)

Work K1 P1 Rib for 5 rows.

Cast off with medium tension.

 

Thumb

Return held sts to needles. DPNs are recommended here.

Join B2 (Pool,) leaving a long tail, to the palm side of the thumb. Using working yarn and tail held together, pull up a loop in one stitch in the corner between needle and earlier cast on sts, pull up a loop in each of the 2 cast on sts across the gap and 1 more loop in the other corner. 4 sts increased. Knit across remaining sts, knitting the 2 YOs through the back loops. 22 sts

Round 1: *k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog* twice. 4 sts decreased. 18 sts

Work 8 rounds K1 P1 Rib. Cast off loosely.

For the right glove: Work Right Chart, with 32 sts on Needle 1 and 30 sts on Needle 2. All instructions are the same.

 

Click on the charts to see them full size.

Left Chart   Right Chart

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested. But they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Post 2- This time it’s personal. April 30, 2008

Filed under: Knitting Projects,patterns — Cailyn @ 10:16 am
Tags: , , , , ,

So, when I was typing the title up there, I accidentally wrote "thyme" instead of "time." I’m not sure what sort of spice-based sequel my subconscious was hoping for, but it ain’t gonna happen.

 

Anyway. I promised a pattern today, and I shall deliver! Typos and grammatical mistakes will not deter me from my goal. (So you typos can just go away now and stop making me delete so much, right?)

These are my Snowflake Fingerless Gloves. They’re my second colorwork project and I love them to death. There are seven colors, in KnitPicks Palette, knit on one long circular using the magic loop. I designed them in Excel which is so much easier than the old graph-paper-and-colored-pencils method. All hail the copy-paste! These gloves were so much fun to knit (even though there were a few too many ends to weave in.)

I should mention, I didn’t intend to use black as the center color. I had gotten another shade of blue, but it was too similar to the contrasting color. I had black left over from another project and I wasn’t about to wait for more yarn to arrive to finally knit these things! I think the black really adds something now, which just goes to show that serendipity is alive and well.

These gloves have always kept me nice and toasty. They go a fair way up my fingers, so even the tips of my fingers stay pretty warm. (And I don’t have to take them off to knit in the cold!)

 

I’ve written down the instructions and the charts in a PDF, including some tips and more information.

Edit 8/20/08: I’ve figured out how to publish chart better now, so I’m publishing the pattern on the blog, straight-up as it were.  PDF is still floating around on my computer, if you’d like it, please email me.

 Edit 10/22/08: Putting PDF back up for those that would like it.  Easier to print and whatnot.

 

The pattern assumes some knowledge of knitting in the round, 2-color knitting, and general glove construction, but I’d like to think that it’s easily followed by a "newbie." Of course, let me know if it’s not! Please tell me if you find any mistakes or typos in the pattern. And I’m happy to answer any questions; this is my first "published" pattern and I’d like everyone to be as happy with it as I am.

 

Well, that paragraph ended rather sappily. I don’t think sappily is a word. I knew I would have to end the post on a grammatical error since I started on a typo… the symmetry is nice, don’t you think?

 

Snowflake Fingerless Gloves

Download the PDF: Snowflake Fingerless Gloves

 

This pattern is written for 1 long circular needle (magic loop method) but is easily worked on 2 circulars or DPNs. I suggest DPNs for the thumb. There are separate charts for the right and left glove for easier knitting. To make finishing less painful, weave in ends as you go by twisting/wrapping the last yarn for 10-15 sts on the new row. I join a new color 10- 15 sts early (the row before it appears on the chart) and carry it along, twisting/wrapping it every other st. This helps eliminate holes at the sides. The exact yardage of yarn is unknown, but the all colors need less than 1 ball, the A colors less than 1/2.

 

I recommend marking the increases for the thumb with two stitch markers: place the first one before the first YO and the second one after the second YO on the first increase row. Slip the markers every row after this; it will make it easier to know which stitches to put on the scrap yarn.

 

You may notice that the diamond motif doesn’t quite match up at the sides- I loved the motif but couldn’t get it to fit perfectly, so I fudged. The break in the pattern is hardly noticeable on the finished glove. The gloves are meant to be snug, but not too tight, so be aware of the tension.

 

These gloves can mostly be knitted from the charts alone, but I have written out the instructions for rows with increases, decreases, or other things that need attention. If there are no written instructions for a row, follow the chart until the next written row.  The charts are below the written instructions.

 

  • Needles: Size 1 (2.25mm) long circular or DPNs
  • Yarn: Knit Picks Palette: A1 Tidepool, A2 Sky, A3 Pool, A4 Mist; B1 Black, B2 Marine, B3 Blue Note
  • Notions: Scrap yarn, stitch markers, tapestry needle
  • Gauge: 9sts x 10rows = 1"
  • Finished Size: Women’s medium, 8 1/2" long (7 3/4" when worn)

Errata

1/27/10- Fixed chart key so that A2 and A3 read correctly.  Added separate instructions for the right glove.  Changed numbers on the bottom of the charts to read correctly right-left.  Fixed Round 54’s written instructions to match the charts.

Special Stitches

YO Increase: YO where indicated on the chart, in the color on the chart. On the next row, knit the YO through the back loop to twist the stitch and eliminate the hole.  You can use M1 if you prefer; personally, I couldn’t stand trying to M1 with floats in the way.

K1 P1 Rib: *K1, p1* repeat from * to * until the end of the round.

 

Left Hand

CO 56 sts loosely in B3 (Blue Note).

Work K1 P1 Rib for 12 rows.

Switch to A1 (Tidepool).

Round 1: K4, yo, *k7, yo* 7 times, k3. 8 sts increased. 64 sts

Divide sts so that "Needle 1" has 33 sts and "Needle 2" has 31 sts.

Work Left Chart until Round 28 is completed.

Round 29: Knit in pattern to the end of "Needle 1." Place first marker and make YO increase in color on chart. On "Needle 2," make YO increase in color on chart, place second marker and continue knitting in pattern.

Work Left Chart, making YO increases in colors shown on chart every third row, until 18 sts have been increased.

Round 54: Knit in pattern to first thumb marker. Slide thumb sts (careful with the 2 YOs) onto waste yarn or a stitch holder. CO 2 sts in the gap in A3 (Pool) using backwards loop method, one st on each needle, knit to end of "Needle 2" in pattern. 2 sts increased. 66 sts

Round 57: Knit to 2 sts before the end of Needle 1 in pattern, ssk. On Needle 2, k2tog, knit to the end in pattern. 2 sts decreased. 62 sts

Work Left Chart until Round 72 is completed.

Round 73: K2tog, *k6, k2tog* 7 times, k6. 8 sts decreased. 56 sts

Switch to B3 (Blue Note.)

Work K1 P1 Rib for 5 rows.

Cast off with medium tension.

 

Right Hand

CO 56 sts loosely in B3 (Blue Note).

Work K1 P1 Rib for 12 rows.

Switch to A1 (Tidepool).

Round 1: K4, yo, *k7, yo* 7 times, k3. 8 sts increased. 64 sts

Divide sts so that "Needle 1" has 31 sts and "Needle 2" has 33 sts.

Work Right Chart until Round 28 is completed.

Round 29: Knit in pattern to the end of "Needle 1." Place first marker and make YO increase in color on chart. On "Needle 2," make YO increase in color on chart, place second marker and continue knitting in pattern.

Work Right Chart, making YO increases in colors shown on chart every third row, until 18 sts have been increased.

Round 54: Knit in pattern to first thumb marker. Slide thumb sts (careful with the 2 YOs) onto waste yarn or a stitch holder. CO 2 sts in the gap in A3 (Pool) using backwards loop method, one st on each needle, knit to end of "Needle 2" in pattern. 2 sts increased. 66 sts

Round 57: Knit to 2 sts before the end of Needle 1 in pattern, ssk. On Needle 2, k2tog, knit to the end in pattern. 2 sts decreased. 62 sts

Work Right Chart until Round 72 is completed.

Round 73: K2tog, *k6, k2tog* 7 times, k6. 8 sts decreased. 56 sts

Switch to B3 (Blue Note.)

Work K1 P1 Rib for 5 rows.

Cast off with medium tension.

 

Thumb (same for both hands)

Return held sts to needles. DPNs are recommended here.

Join B2 (Pool,) leaving a long tail, to the palm side of the thumb. Using working yarn and tail held together, pull up a loop in one st in the corner between needle and earlier cast on sts, pull up a loop in each of the 2 cast on sts across the gap and 1 more loop in the other corner. 4 sts increased. Knit across remaining sts, knitting the 2 YOs through the back loops. 22 sts

Row 2: *k4, k2tog, k3, k2tog* twice. 4 sts decreased. 18 sts

Work 8 rows K1 P1 Rib. Cast off loosely.

 

Click on the charts to see them full size.

 

Snowflake Color Left     Snowflake Color Right   Snowflake Color Key

 Snowflake Symbol Left    Snowflake Symbol Right   Snowflake Symbol Key

 

Please Note: I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions for this pattern are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.