The Daily Skein

All the craft that’s fit to make.

Sir Elton July 27, 2011

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 10:47 pm
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I designed a pair of socks for the Sock Summit edition of Tangled (I may have mentioned this before).  The issue went live today, so I can show you Sir Elton!

 

sir_elton2

(picture shamelessly “borrowed” from Tangled)

 

These socks were originally named “Adara.”  Since the Tangled issue has an 80’s theme, like the Summit, the patterns got renamed with 80’s music names.  We submitted a few of our favorite musicians/bands for them to choose from.

 

These socks grew out of a Celtic knot-esque cable I designed.  I wanted it to grow organically from the ribbing and I wanted a stockinette foot.  I particularly love the way the side cables taper down to just one stitch on each side before the heel.

 

These socks are available for $6 at Tangled.  You can use the code SOCKSUMMIT11 to get $1 off the pattern until August 14.  And don’t forget to stop by and see these socks in person at the Tangled booth if you’re at the Sock Summit! (More on that tomorrow.  I have to get too sleep so I’ll be awake for my morning class!)

 

Danu July 7, 2010

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 1:20 pm
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Last summer, I dug myself out of a dangerous twisted stitch sock addiction by designing a pair of socks.  (It may seem like an odd cure, but I’ve found it to be effective.)  Since Alpine socks take so much concentration, I wanted these new socks to be kind of mindless but not boring.  Interesting, but easy.  What I came up with was…

 

Danu, a classy cable-rib sock with easy cables and moss stitch accents.

 

Danu 1

 

These socks were inspired by stories of the Tuatha Dé Dannan (“people of the goddess Danu”) who ruled Ireland until they were driven to the Otherworld by the Gaelic Celts. Worked top-down, the socks feature bold cables, for the warriors, and subtle moss stitch columns, for the tricksters.  At the heel, two of the cables split and continue down the side of the foot, merging the patterned instep with the plain sole. The gusset decreases are placed at the bottom of the heel flap instead of the top so that the side cables can use the gusset stitches in their twists. With an easy-to-memorize pattern and slightly unusual construction, these socks may even have some of the magic of the Tuatha Dé Dannan still in them.

102_4474    Danu 3

 

At the time I designed these, I was reading a book by Juliet Marillier whose writing I adore.  She specializes in historical fiction with a healthy dose of ancient folklore/fantasy.  Reading a story set just after the Tuatha Dé Dannan’s withdrawal to the Otherworld might have influenced the name of the pattern.  Maybe.

 

Danu 2    Danu 4

 

Danu was picked up by Yarn Forward for publication last fall and I’m happy to announce that the socks have finally found their home in issue #26!  (On newsstands now!) 

 

SCN_0001

 

I’m pretty excited that Danu is one of the pictured patterns in the table of contents.  The contract Yarn Forward has with their photographer doesn’t allow for third-parties to post their pictures, so you’ll have to look at the magazine to see it and the other great photos.    The ones above are pictures that I took at a stream near my house for the submission.  My camera doesn’t have a remote, so these were taken (like the Arthurian Anklets) by setting the self-timer and dashing into a pose while trying not to get any detritus on the socks.  Actually, these were taken just down the path from the pictures of the Anklets.  That park is wonderful for “wild” sock pictures.  When they send the socks back, I’ll take some more (read: better) photos with Lowell.

 

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Sitka June 10, 2010

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 11:24 pm
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Before I tell you all about the lovely yarns I got in Virginia and North Carolina, I have some good news to share!

 

I’d like to introduce you to Sitka.

 

 

These socks take their name and inspiration from the Sitka spruce, a beautiful northwestern evergreen tree. They are worked from the top-down with a slip-stitch heel flap. The interesting part of these socks is the two bands of color work, one around the leg and one around the ball of the foot.

 

 

Between these bands, the sock is mostly stockinette with a simple cable “clock” on each side. A clock is a stitch pattern that travels down the side of the leg and splits at the heel, like the hands of a clock.

 

 

Clocks were a popular design element in early socks and one of my favorite techniques. They add interest but don’t slow things down. Because the clock pattern in these socks is 9 stitches wide, the front of the sock has fewer stockinette stitches than the back. This allows the line of purls between the cables to continue down the foot uninterrupted.

 

Sitka is similar to Socks, circa 2008.  I love the look of a sock with a bit of color on top.  But Sitka has an extra band of color work at the toe, thrown in for free.  It also has simpler cables and a plain heel flap.  I saw the top band in a stitch dictionary (in very different colors) and knew that I had to design a sock using it.  The rest of the sock grew from that band.  The colors were the last thing to be figured out in this pattern- with a near frogging of the first sock when I had second thoughts!  However, the original colors I chose prevailed.

 

 

Sitka is for sale at Knit Picks as a PDF download.  You can buy the pattern by itself for $1.99 or as a kit.  I love their new Independent Designer Program and have had a great experience with the publication process.  I get all the proceeds from the pattern sales (they keep the yarn profits, obviously) and I keep the rights to the pattern.  I take care of all the errata and corrections, so if you have any questions about the pattern, please contact me at dailyskein (at) gmail.com or on Ravelry as CailynDragon.  If you’ve read any of the other entries on this blog, you probably know that all my “go-to” yarns are from Knit Picks.  The open invitation to submit patterns to them is something I’m really enjoying.  I have another pattern in the works for them… and probably a whole bunch more, too!

 

 

These photos were taken in the forest behind my house early one spring morning.  Lowell took this great shot of the sun through the trees.

 

 IMG_0613

 

One of our neighbors had taken a No Parking sign from the street and put it behind their house; I guess as a protest for the high number of them in our cul de sac?  They’ve moved now, so we’ll never know.  Made us laugh, though!  They hated those No Parking signs.

 

IMG_0577 

 

This is the tree I’m standing on.  See, we found out that the roots were rotting away and it might fall onto our house.  The top half of the tree got cut off and the rest left as a snag.  The top half was left in the forest and is now a great place for photos!  And wildlife too, since I guess the world doesn’t revolve around my sock-photo needs.

 

p2190111   IMG_0518

 

Oh Crap January 14, 2010

Filed under: Musings — Cailyn @ 12:21 pm
Tags: , ,

Oh crap.

 

I love my CPH.  I loved knitting it.  I love wearing it.  Do you know what this means?

 

It means that I can’t stop looking at sweaters and wanting to knit them.   Last week, I was running errands and saw a woman wearing an awesome sweater out the window.  I tried to kinnear the sweater as best I could.

 

IMG_0254 (2)    IMG_0257 (2)

 

I love the huge cables on that thing.  I wish I had gotten a better picture of the back, though.  According to my notes (yes, I kinneared and took notes!) the back had two of the arm cables side by side and they interlaced together.

 

We went to see a movie the other day and a preview for Greenberg was shown.  I leaned over to Lowell and whispered, “I like his sweater!”  I particularly like the lines of eyelets on the drop shoulder.

 

 greenberg

 

This can’t be good.   I mean, I already stare at people’s socks, hats, scarves and mittens.  Now I’m going to stare at their sweaters and cardigans too?!  I won’t be able to go anywhere without taking pictures of strangers and gazing intently at their shoulders to figure out what kind of sleeve they have. 

 

I’ve already started on a designed-from-scratch sweater for Lowell (almost 8 inches long now!)  I’d post a picture of it, but if it turns out well I might want to submit it somewhere.  I completely understand that magazines want their patterns to be a surprise, but it really puts a kink in the blogging, you know?  Suffice to say that it has cables and the design relied heavily on Lowell’s input.  It’s based on Elizabeth Zimmerman’s seamless bottom-up saddle shoulder pattern from Knitting Without Tears.  It’s also green.

 

Logi January 7, 2010

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 10:14 pm
Tags: , , , ,

102_4867 

 

"When Loki and Thor traveled to Utgard, the citadel of the giants, they were told by the giant king that no one could stay in the citadel without proving themselves superior at a skill or craft.

Loki was the first to demonstrate his skill, saying that he could eat faster than anyone in the hall. He started at one end of the table and his challenger, the giant Logi, started at the other, eating towards the center. Loki ate everything, leaving only the bones behind. But Logi ate the bones and even the wooden trencher!

In the morning, the giant king revealed that he had tricked them. Logi, he told them, was fire itself and no one could consume faster than fire. Utgard vanished, along with the giants, and Thor and Loki returned home."

That is an extremely abridged version of one of my favorite Norse myths, where Thor and Loki go to fight some giants and end up humiliated by a clever king and some magic. The cable on this scarf was inspired by the interlocking designs on Viking armor and jewelry which is surrounded by double moss stitch borders. The cable starts and ends in a pair of points, like the tips of a flame. To do this, fewer stitches are cast on and then increases are worked to make the points.

 

102_4880 

 

This scarf was designed for my brother-in-law, and if you’d ever seen him and my husband eat a pile of barbeque, you’ll know the other reason this scarf is named Logi.  This is a great pattern to knit for guys, especially when you tell them that the cable is Viking-related!

 

Using one skein (200 or so yards) of Malabrigo will produce a short but still respectable length scarf. In order to make the scarf wider and/or longer, add a second skein. To easily make this scarf wider, add pairs of stitches to each edge and work them in double moss stitch. For example, the first row for a wider scarf might read "Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice x3 , p12, *k1, p1* twice x3, k1, turn." This adds two stitches to each the right and left side.

 

The scarf will have a tendency to flip inwards around the cable as it’s worked. This is because of the two columns of purl stitches on either side of the cable. When the scarf is finished, steam block the scarf aggressively to relax the fibers and minimize the flipping. Wet blocking will work but steam blocking is more effective for combating the flip.  Learn more about steam blocking versus wet blocking at TechKnitting, Knitty, and KnitSimple.

 

Edit 2/23/10: Renamed the increases so that the names in the instructions and the names in the key match.

 

102_4863   102_4870

Logi

Download the PDF: Logi

  • Needles: One pair size 9 (5.5mm) straight needles or size needed to obtain gauge
  • Yarn: Malabrigo Worsted [100% merino wool] 216 yds/3.5oz Color: Loro Barranquero; 1 skein
  • Yardage: 200-250 yards (180-225m)
  • Gauge: 26 sts x 21 rows = 4”(10cm) in pattern
  • Finished Size: 4.5” x 52” (11.5cm x 132cm)
  • Notions: Cable needle, tapestry needle

 

Special Stitches

LRinc: Insert right needle into the right leg of the knit stitch or the top of the purl stitch below the next stitch. Knit this new stitch.

LLinc: Insert left needle into the left leg of the knit stitch or the top of the purl stitch two rows below the stitch just worked. Knit this new stitch.

K2tog: Knit 2 together

SSK: Slip next 2 sts purlwise. Insert left needle into the front loops of the slipped stitches and knit them together.

P2tog: Purl 2 together

SSP: Slip next 2 sts knitwise. Return sts to left needle and p2tog through the back loops.

C4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the front. K2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.

C4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the back. K2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.

T4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the front. P2 from left needle, then k2 from cable needle.

T4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold to the back. K2 from left needle, then p2 from cable needle.

 

Scarf

 

CO 22 sts.

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice, p12, *k1, p1* twice, k1, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.

Row 3 (RS): Sl 1, *k1, p1* twice, p12, *p1, k1* twice, p1, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.

 

Work Chart A for 8 rows. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right. 8 sts increased. 30 sts

 

Work Chart B until scarf is 2.5 inches less than desired length, ending on Row 16. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right.

 

Work Chart C for 10 rows. On WS rows, work stitches as presented or read the chart from left to right. 8 sts decreased. 22 sts

 

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, *k1, p1* twice, p12, *p1, k1* twice, p1, turn.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, work stitches as presented (knit the knits and purl the purls,) turn.

Row 3 (RS): Sl 1, *p1, k1* twice, p12, *k1, p1* twice, k1, turn.

Row 4 (WS): Bind off all sts knitwise.

 

Finishing: Weave in ends. Steam block to relax the fiber’s tendency to flip inwards at the edge of the cable. Steam blocking will lessen the flip more than wet blocking.

 

Click on charts for bigger image, or download the PDF above.

Key

Chart B

 Chart C

Chart D

 

102_4859

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested, but they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein@gmail.com.

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Cabobble November 30, 2009

Filed under: patterns — Cailyn @ 8:00 am
Tags: , , , ,

100_3885

 

Simple, cute mittens are always in style. Add a funny name and how can you lose? The name is a combination of “cable: and “bobble” inspired by the off-center cable which features small, easy bobbles for interest. The afterthought thumb is simple to knit and the shaping at the top of the mitten makes a very flat top. This is a great project for some luxury or handspun yarn.

 

The purple mittens shown were snatched up by my sister last year.  I really enjoyed working with this yarn; it was my first Debbie Bliss yarn if you can believe it.  The second pair is being knit in Twilley’s Freedom Spirit in Fire.  I love the subtle self-striping and the way it highlights the cables and bobbles. 

 

102_4823    100_3862     102_4832

 

Cabobble Mittens

Download the PDF Cabobble Mittens

  • Needle Size: Size 3 (3.25mm) DPNs
  • Yarn: Debbie Bliss Rialto DK Purple (100% Extrafine Merino) 2 balls, 116 yds/50g
  • Yardage: 190 –230 yards
  • Gauge: 26 sts x 38 sts= 4” in stockinette
  • Finished Size: Hand, 7”; Length, 8 5/8”
  • Notions: Cable needle, 6” smooth waste yarn, tapestry needle
Special Stitches

T5R: Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, then k3 from cable needle.

T5L: Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, k3, then k2 from cable needle.

C3B: Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, then p1 from cable needle.

C3F: Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, p1, then k2 from cable needle.

MB (make bobble): Knit into the front and back of the next stitch twice, turn and p4, turn, sl 1, k3tog, psso. Bobble completed.

 

Cuff (same for both mittens)

CO 48 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: *K1, p1* repeat from * to * to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 2” long.

 

Right Hand

Increase Round: M1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, k13, m1, k2, m1, k20, m1, k2. 4 sts increased. 52 sts

Cable Rounds

Round 1: K1, p3, T5R, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: K1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 3: K1, p2, C3B, p1, C3F, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 4: K1, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: K1, p1, C3B, p1, MB, p1, C3F, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 6: K1, p1, k2, p5, k2, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 7: K1, p1, C3F, p3, C3B, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 8: K1, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 9: K1, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 10: K1, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1-8 again.

Next round (counts as round 9): K1, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, k14; using waste yarn, k8, slip these sts back to left needle and knit again with working yarn; knit to the end of the round.

Starting with Round 10, continue Cable Rounds 1-10 4 more times, ending after Round 1.

Top Shaping

Round 1: *K2, k2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 39 sts

Round 2 and 4: Knit even.

Round 3: *K1, k2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 26 sts

Round 5: *K2tog* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 13 sts

Round 6: *K2tog* repeat from * to * to last st of round, k1. 7 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

Left Hand

Increase Round: K1, m1, k12, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, m1, k2, m1, k20, m1, k2. 4 sts increased. 52 sts

Round 1: K14, p3, T5L, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: K14, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Round 3: K14, p2, C3B, p1, C3F, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 4: K14, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: K14, p1, C3B, p1, MB, p1, C3F, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 6: K14, p1, k2, p5, k2, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 7: K14, p1, C3F, p3, C3B, p1, knit to the end of the round.

Round 8: K14, p2, k2, p3, k2, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 9: K14, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, knit to the end of the round.

Round 10: K14, p3, k2, p1, k2, p3, knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1-8 again.

Next round (counts as round 9): K14, p2, C3F, p1, C3B, p2, k19; using waste yarn, k8, slip these sts back to left needle and knit again with working yarn.

Starting with Round 10, continue Cable Rounds 1-10 4 more times, ending after Round 1.

Top Shaping

Round 1: *K2, ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 39 sts

Round 2 and 4: Knit even.

Round 3: *K1, ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 26 sts

Round 5: *Ssk* repeat from * to * to the end of the round. 13 sts

Round 6: *Ssk* repeat from * to * to last st of round, k1. 7 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

Thumb (same for both mittens)

Carefully remove waste yarn from thumb and place live sts on DPNs. There will be 8 sts on the bottom and 7 sts on top. Join yarn and knit across the bottom 8 sts. Pick up 4 sts along the side of the opening, knit the 7 top sts, then pick up 4 sts along the other side. 23 sts

Knit 1 round.

Next Round: *K1, ssk* 7 times, k2. 16 sts

Knit even until thumb measures 2” or ¼” shorter than desired length.

Thumb Shaping

Round 1: K1, *k1, ssk* 5 times. 11 sts

Round 2: Knit even

Round 3: K1, *ssk* to the end of the round. 5 sts

Cut yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread yarn through remaining sts and pull tight. Weave in ends.

 

100_3872   102_4821

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

Cruiser November 25, 2008

Filed under: Knitting Projects,patterns — Cailyn @ 12:05 am
Tags: , , , , , ,

Snoqualmie Point Mittens and Cailyn 014 [800x600]

 

I love these mittens. They’re easy and quick to make and they’re so incredibly soft and warm. I named the mittens after a ski run on Blackcomb Mountain, since we’re going to be wearing our mittens in the village (while drinking hot chocolate) after a long day of skiing. The cable in the center is nicely unisex, making this pattern a good addition to the "how could I forget so-and-so’s gift?" pattern pile. The cable is just enough to keep things interesting and, as an added bonus, easy to memorize! Another bonus: after the ribbing, there’s no more purling! These mittens can be scaled to any size and the pattern offers instructions in three sizes. Small will fit small women’s hands or large kids’ hands. Medium will fit most women and small men’s hands. Large will fit large women’s hands and medium men’s hands.

 

The instructions for left and right mittens are the same except for the placement of the thumb stitches. You can read more about the afterthought/peasant thumb here or EZ’s method here. The yarn used is a worsted weight, about 10 WPI. I highly recommend the Road to China yarn, but it is pretty expensive unless you can find it on sale. Try to find a replacement yarn with alpaca, wool, and silk (difficult, but worth it!). Wool for elasticity, alpaca for warmth, halo and weight, and silk for the depth of color and softness that it brings. Knit Picks Andean Silk or Classic Elite Portland Tweed might be good substitutions.

 

Edit 11-27-08: The cuffs of these mittens are kind of loose, so if you like snug mitten cuff, try going down a needle size or two. You can also cast on fewer stitches, but then you have to add more increases to the hand. I kind of like the looser cuff for mittens (but my glove cuffs must be snug!) but Lowell likes them snugger. I just want to save you the pain of having to rip out a half-done mitten just to re-knit the cuff.

Edit 12-01-08: The thumb instructions had some issues, so I’ve changed the instructions in the brackets to fix the problem.  The stitches for the thumb should be the first stitches of the second half of the right mitten. (Did that make sense?)  Left mitten thumb is fine.  Also, the small size instructions actually include instructions now.  Oy.  Can’t explain what happened there.  Proof-reading fail.  Sorry!  Errata/fixes are in purple.

Edit 11-16-09: Added “join in the round” to instructions.  Oops.

Edit 1-06-11: Removed “stitch holder” from the Extras; it’s not actually needed.  Added instructions for an “m1.”

 

Snoqualmie Point Mittens and Cailyn 001 Med

 

Cruiser

Download the PDF: Cruiser

  • Finished Size: Small (circumference 6.5”x length 5.5”) [Medium (7.5”x7”), Large (8.5”x7.75”)]
  • Needles: Size 6 (4.00 mm) double-point needles
  • Yarn: Road to China, Lapis; 2 [2, 3] skeins
  • Yardage: 130 [140, 170] yards
  • Gauge: 24 sts/24 rows = 4″ in stockinette stitch
  • Extras: Cable needle, tapestry needle, 6″ piece of smooth scrap yarn or stitch holder

Special Stitches

1×1 Rib: K1, p1 to the end of the round.

m1: Insert the tip of the left needle from front to back under the strand of yarn between the stitches  and knit into the back of this new stitch.

C4F: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front. K2, then k2 from cable needle.

C4B: Slip next 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back. K2, then k2 from cable needle.

 

Cuff

CO 34 [40, 46] sts.  Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Work 1×1 rib for 1.5 [1.75, 2.25] inches

Next round: K5 [5, 6], m1, *k8 [10, 11], m1* three times, k5 [5, 7]. 4 sts increased; 38 [44, 50] sts

 

Hand

Round 1: K2 [3, 5], [[C4F, k8, C4B, k2[3,5]], knit to the end of the round.

Round 2, 4, 6: Knit

Round 3: K4 [5,7], [[C4F, k4, C4B, k4[5,7]], knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: K6 [7,9], [[C4F, C4B, k6[7,9]], knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1-6 until the mitten measures 2.25 [2.5, 2.75] inches from the cuff, ending on any round.

Right Mitten: Next round, continuing the pattern as established, work to the end of the double brackets [[ ]] then knit the next 4 [5, 6] sts with the scrap yarn; slide scrap yarn sts back to the left needle and knit them again with the working yarn.

Left Mitten: Next round, continuing the pattern as established, work to the last 4 [5,6] sts of the round, then knit the next 4 [5,6] sts with the scrap yarn; slide scrap yarn sts back to the left needle and knit them again with the working yarn.

Continue working Rounds 1-6 as established until mitten is about 1.5 [2, 2.25] inches short of desired length (about 4 [5, 5.5] inches) not including cuff, trying to end on Round 5. If not, continue working the instructions in the double brackets [[ ]] if possible during the decreases.

 

Top Decreases

Round 1: K1, ssk, k13 [16, 19], k2tog, k2, ssk, k13 [16, 19], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 34 [40, 46] sts

Round 2, 4, 6: Knit

Round 3: K1, ssk, k11 [14, 17], k2tog, k2, ssk, k11 [14, 17], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 30 [36, 42] sts

Round 5: K1, ssk, k9 [12, 15], k2tog, k2, ssk, k9 [12,15], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 26 [32, 38] sts

Round 7: K1, ssk, k7 [10, 13], k2tog, k2, ssk, k7 [10, 13], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 22 [28, 34] sts

Round 8: K1, ssk, k5 [8, 11], k2tog, k2, ssk, k5 [8, 11], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 18 [24, 30] sts

Round 9: K1, ssk, k3 [6, 9], k2tog, k2, ssk, k3 [6, 9], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 14 [20 ,26] sts

Size M and L: Round 10: K1, ssk, k4 [7], k2tog, k2, ssk, k4 [7], k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 16 [22] sts

Size L only: K1, ssk, k5, k2tog, k2, ssk, k5, k2tog, k1. 4 sts decreased; 20 sts

Cut working yarn, leaving an 8” long tail and graft the remaining stitches together using Kitchener Stitch.

 

Thumb

Carefully remove scrap yarn from the thumb stitches, placing live stitches on two needles. There will be 4 [5, 6] stitches below the hole and 3 [4,5] above.

Join yarn at the the thumb on back of the hand. K4 [5, 6], pick up 3 [3, 4] sts along the gap, k3 [4, 5], pick up 3 [3, 4] sts along the second gap. 13, [15, 19] sts

Join in the round and knit until thumb measures .75 inches shorter than desired length.

Size S and L only: K2tog, knit to the end of the round. 1 st decreased; 12 [18] sts

Round 1: *K3 [3, 4], k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 9 [12, 15] sts

Round 2: *K1 [2, 3], k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 6 [9, 12] sts

Size S only: *K2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 3 sts

Size M and L: *K1 [1, 2], k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 6 [9] sts

Size M only: *K2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 3 sts

Size L only: *K1, k2tog* three times. 3 sts decreased; 6 sts

Cut working yarn, leaving a 6” tail. Thread the tail through the remaining stitches and fasten off.

Weave in ends.

 

Snoqualmie Point Mittens and Cailyn 008 [800x600] 100_4011

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested, but they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

Creative Commons License
This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

 

 
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