Wintergreen Gloves October 5, 2009

These cute fingerless gloves are inspired by traditional Selbu mittens.  The construction differs from the historical mittens and uses a thumb gusset on the side of the hand instead of a gusset on the palm, but the motifs are all taken from traditional patterns.  I can’t decide if the main motif reminds me of hearts, mint leaves, or snowflakes.  The construction is essentially the same as the Snowflake and the Albuquerque Fingerless Gloves.  But these gloves only use five colors (and the background color doesn’t change)!  I love knitting these style gloves.  They seem to knit up faster than other projects, probably because the pattern changes every row- it’s very addicting!  And there’s no fingers to mess with.  I’ve found that wearing these over a thin glove liner is just about perfect for Seattle mornings and of course they’re great for typing in cold offices or computer rooms.

 

There are separate mirrored charts for the right and left glove for easier knitting (no reading from left to right while knitting right to left!) Charts are available in color and symbols below and in the PDF. To make finishing less painful, weave in ends as you go by twisting/wrapping the last yarn for 10-15 sts on the new row. Try joining the new color 10- 15 sts early (the row before it appears on the chart) and carry it along, twisting/wrapping it every other st. This helps eliminate holes at the sides.

 

The increases for the thumb gusset are written as yarn overs which are knit twisted on the next round. Standard lifted increases can be substituted; the yarn over method can prevent puckering or tension problems from lifting the strands from below. I recommend marking the increases for the thumb with two stitch markers: place the first one before the first YO and the second one after the second YO on the first increase row. Slip the markers every round after this; it will make it easier to know which stitches to put on the scrap yarn when the gusset is finished.

 

These gloves can be knitted from the charts alone between the ribbing sections, but instructions have been written for rows with increases, decreases, or other things that need attention. If there are no written instructions for a row, follow the chart until the next written row. 

 

 

 

Wintergreen Gloves

Download the PDF: Wintergreen Gloves

• Finished Size: Hand circumference, 7”; Length, 7”
• Needle Size: Size 0 (2.00mm) DPNs
• Gauge: 26 sts x 38 sts = 4” in two-color stockinette
• Yarn: Knit Picks Palette (100% wool) 1 ball each (231yd/50g): White, Sky, Pool, Tidepool Heather, Marine Heather
• Notions: 12” smooth waste yarn, tapestry needle

Errata

11/7/09- Fixed column numbers along the bottom of the charts; numbers now count correctly by 5’s instead of “1, 5, 10, 11, 15.”  Fixed written instructions to Round 39.

Special Stitches

YO R: Bring yarn to the front by going over the top of the right needle and return to the back under the needle. On the next round, knit into the front of the yarn over.

YO L: Bring yarn to the front by going under the right needle and return to the back over the top of the needle. On the next round, knit into the back of the yarn over.

 

Cuff (Work the same for both gloves)

In White, CO 60 sts. Join in the round, being careful not to twist.

Round 1: *K2, p2* to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 1 until cuff measures 1 inch.

In Sky, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In White, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In Pool, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In White, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In Tidepool Heather, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

In White, *k2, p2* to the end of the round.

Repeat last round until cuff measures 2” from cast on.

 

Hand

Increase Round: K3, m1 *k6, m1* 9 times, k3. 70 sts

Work Right Hand Chart [Left Hand Chart] for 38 rounds, changing colors where indicated on chart and increasing stitches where indicated. It is helpful to place a stitch marker before the first increase and after the second increase to mark the thumb stitches.

Next Round: Work round 39 of chart for 36 [34] sts, slip all 19 thumb stitches to scrap yarn, CO 3 stitches in White using the backwards loop method over the gap. Continue round 39 of chart. 73 sts

Continue working chart until round 52 is completed, decreasing where indicated.

 

Top Ribbing (Work the same for both gloves)

Round 53 (not shown on chart): K3, *k2tog, k6* 9 times, k2tog, k3. 60 sts

Ribbing: *K2, p2* to the end of the round.

Repeat Ribbing until ribbing measures 1/2 inch.

Cast off loosely, cut yarn and weave in ends.

 

Thumb (Work the same for both gloves)

Return 19 thumb sts to needles, removing waste yarn.

Join White at the beginning of the thumb on the back of the hand. Knit across all thumb sts, working YOs as before. Pick up 5 sts across the gap (1 in each of the cast on stitches and 1 in either “corner”). 24 sts

Round 1: K18, k2tog, k3, k2tog (joining the first and last st of the round). 22 sts

Round 2: *K1, p1* to the end of the round.

Repeat Round 2 until thumb ribbing measures ¾”.

Cast off loosely, cut yarn and weave in ends.

 

Color Charts (click on charts for larger image)

  

Symbol Charts (click on charts for larger image)

 

  

 

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested, but they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

Glass Slipper Socks August 21, 2009

Hey, the Fall 09 preview for Knotions is up!  And what’s this?  Is this one of my patterns there under “Steeped in History”?  Why, yes, I do believe it is!

 

 

 

Glass Slippers are top-down socks with elegant twisted stitches down the side of the leg and across the top of the foot. The twisted stitches are surrounded by moss stitch and stockinette. A cable needle is optional; the traditional way of working these tiny cables is without one. The toe has been modified to avoid grafting.

 

The full issue will be up next week, with more pictures and the pattern for free.  There’s some great projects in this issue- it’s humbling to be in such great company.  I’ll write more about my pattern here then.

Book Pillow April 22, 2009

This:

 

is a sickness.

Yes, that is me, reading and knitting at the same time.  Am I crazy?  ADD?  There’s no cat around, so I can’t be turning into a crazy cat lady.  Elizabeth Zimmerman recommends reading and knitting at the same time to help get through those long stockinette or garter sections of a sweater.  After all, once you’ve been knitting for a little while, the modest act of making a knit stitch doesn’t really require much brain power.  We all knit while watching TV, right?

 

Recently, there’s been a glut (yes, I said glut) of books that I want to read.  Some of them are knitting books, like Cookie A’s book Sock Innovation or Wendy Knits’ Socks from the Toe Up.  Some of the other books are fiction and a lot of them are non-fiction about nutrition, cooking, and exercise.  I also have a glut of ideas for knitting projects.  Basically, I’ve got far too many things that I want to do than I have time for.  So I’ve started reading while knitting, especially great for when there’s nothing good on TV.  After doing a number of complicated socks for submissions, I’m designing some simpler patterns (albeit with interesting construction) which have a lot of stockinette in them.  Not to mention the languishing cardigan.

 

But books are hard to hold open without hands.  (Why isn’t everything spiral-bound?)  Last night, I kind of tucked the book under my extra belly and propped it up on my thigh.  The problem was, of course, that the book ended up more or less hard to see, especially with the knitting in the way.  Even when I’m not looking at it, I like to hold the project where I do when I look, which is about mid-chest.  So, I came up with a solution: the Book Pillow.

Basically the Book Pillow is a pillow (who’d have guessed?) that has some elastic on the corners to hold the book open.  I used Lastin, which is transparent so that I can read through it in case the elastic covers some words.  It works great.  And it only took about half and hour to make.  Here’s how to make one!

 

Book Pillow

Supplies

• Two pieces of fabric, each big enough to cover a lap or pillow form (I cut mine 17×11″, with a 1/2″ seam allowance)
• Four 8″ pieces of elastic such as Lastin
• Poly-fil stuffing or a pillow form
• Sewing machine, pins, thread, needle

 

Place one piece of fabric right-side up on the table.  Take one of the elastic pieces and lay it diagonally on the fabric so that it forms a right triangle with the corner of the fabric.

 

 

Place the other three pieces in the same manner on the other corners.

 

If you want, put a book on the fabric to check the placement of the elastic.  I moved them around so that the elastic crossed just inside the seam allowance.  I didn’t spend a lot of time making sure that the angles all matched up; I just eyeballed it.  Two pieces of my elastic are shorter than the others.

 

When you’ve got the placement of the elastic where you want, carefully place the other piece of fabric right-side down on top of the one with the elastic.  Pin in place, making sure to catch the elastic in the pin so it doesn’t move around.  You don’t have to stretch the elastic, since holding the book will do that, but you can stretch is slightly if you’d like while pinning.

 

Sew around all four sides, leaving a hole for turning and stuffing.  If you’re using a pillow form instead of poly-fil, leave a hole big enough to stuff the pillow inside.  When the sewing is finished, turn the pillow right side out, clip the corners, and press if desired.

 

Stuff the pillow with the chosen filling until it reaches the firmness you like.  I stuffed mine firm but still kind of squishy.  It needs to be stiff enough to keep the book from closing.  I tested a book on it during the stuffing stages to see which I liked best.  Once you’re done stuffing, sew up the turning hole (I like to use slip stitch).

 

Enjoy your new ability to read and knit at the same time!

The book in the pictures is Real Food by Nina Planck.

Lacy Spring Socks April 8, 2009

I finally got a sunny day to take pictures of the lace socks that I had been working on.  Actually, the day was a little too sunny; many of the pictures came out over-exposed.  The light color of the yarn and the slight shine to it really confused the camera!  But, I think these turned out pretty well, all things considered.  Really, I’m just glad to have the pattern completely finished- the written part had been sitting there completed for a week just waiting for the pictures.

These socks were actually inspired by a commercial for rheumatoid arthritis medication, if you can believe it. There was a pair of socks in that commercial that were too pretty not to translate into hand knitting. They feature a lace front with a stockinette back, which makes the knitting go quickly. The lace pattern is simpler than it appears and is fairly easy to memorize. The instructions for the lace are both written and in chart form.  

 

Made from wicking, lightweight bamboo with just enough wool for some elasticity, the Lacy Spring Socks are a great warm-weather sock. These socks are very stretchy and will stretch to fit a 9” foot circumference. If the gauge swatch or cuff is too large, try using a yarn with more wool content for a snugger fit.

    

The construction of these socks is a very traditional top-down construction, making them an easy sock for beginners or anyone who wants a simple project to work on at picnics or in the car. For a quicker project, these socks would make cute anklets!

 

Lacy Spring Socks

Download the PDF: Lacy Spring Socks

• Finished Size: Midfoot circumference 8 inches, will stretch to fit 9 inches
• Yarn: Argosy Luxury Fibers Five Oaks Ranch Bamboo [20% superwash wool/80% Bamboo] Sage (2 skeins)
• Yardage: 300-400 yards
• Needles: Size 0 (2.00mm) DPNs
• Gauge: 38 sts x 50 rows = 4 inches
• Extras: Stitch marker, stitch holder or scrap yarn, tapestry needle

 

Cuff

CO 76 sts and divide evenly among 4 needles. Join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place marker to mark the beginning of the round.

Ribbing: *k1tbl, p1* to the end of the round.

Work Ribbing for approximately 1 inch.

Leg

(Instructions in brackets are also represented in chart form.  The chart repeats twice, with 4 knit stitches in between the repeats not shown on the chart. Click chart to enlarge.)

Round 1: [YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO, k5, YO, ssk, k4, YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO,] k4, [YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO, k5, YO, ssk, k4, YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO,] knit to the end of the round.

Round 2, 4, 6, 8: Knit.

Round 3: [YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO, k3, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k3, YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO,] k4, [YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO, k3, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k3, YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO,] knit to the end of the round.

Round 5: [YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO,] k4, [YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO, k2, k2tog, YO, k3, YO, ssk, k2, YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO,] knit to the end of the round.

Round 7: [YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO, k1, k2tog, YO, k5, YO, ssk, k1, YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO,] k4, [YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO, k1, k2tog, YO, k5, YO, ssk, k1, YO, sl 1, k2tog, psso, YO,] knit to the end of the round.

Repeat Rounds 1-8 until leg is desired length, shown 4 1/4 inches.

Heel

At the end of any odd round, turn. The heel will be worked back and forth over the 38 stockinette stitches on the back of the sock. Move the other 38 stitches to a stitch holder or scrap yarn if desired.

Row 1 (WS): Sl 1, purl 37, turn.

Row 2 (RS): *Sl 1, k1* to the end, turn.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until heel flap measures 2 inches, ending on a WS row.

Heel Turn

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, k20, ssk, k1, turn. 1 stitch decreased.

Row 2 (WS): Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.  1 stitch decreased.

Row 3: Sl 1, k6, ssk, k1, turn.  1 stitch decreased.

Row 4: Sl 1, p7, p2tog, p1, turn.  1 stitch decreased.

Continue working one more stitch each row until all stitches have been worked, ending on a WS row. 21 stitches remain.

Set up for gusset: Sl 1, knit across heel stitches. Using the same needle (Needle 1), pick up 1 stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the heel flap. Return held stitches to two needles (Needles 2 and 3) and work across instep stitches in lace pattern as established. Using an empty needle (Needle 4), pick up 1 stitch in each slipped stitch along the other edge of the heel flap, knit 10 heel stitches from Needle 1 onto Needle 4. Mark this as the beginning of the round.

Gusset Shaping

Round 1: K2tog, knit to 3 stitches before the end of Needle 1, k2tog, k1, work across Needles 2 and 3 in lace pattern as established, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round. 3 stitches decreased.

Round 2: Knit to the end of Needle 1, Needles 2 and 3 in lace pattern as established, knit to the end of the round.

Round 3: Knit to 3 stitches before the end of Needle 1, k2tog, k1, work across Needles 2 and 3 in lace pattern as established, k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round. 2 stitches decreased.

Repeat Rounds 2 and 3 until 76 remain.

Foot

Knit to the end of Needle 1, work Needles 2 and 3 in lace pattern as established, knit to the end of the round until the sock measures 2” shorter than desired length, ending on Row 7 if possible.

Toe

Round 1: Knit to 3 stitches before the end of Needle 1, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before then end of Needle 3, k1, k2tog; k1, ssk, knit to the end of the round. 4 stitches decreased.

Round 2: Knit.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until 20 stitches remain.

Knit to the end of Needle 1. Move stitches from Needle 2 to Needle 3. Move stitches from Needle 4 to Needle 1. Cut yarn, leaving an 8” tail. Graft stitches on Needle 1 to Needle 2.

Block if desired.

 

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested. But they are free. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.

Fireflake Hat January 14, 2009

I love this hat.  I think I love everything about it (and I don’t normally like snug-fitting hats.)  I designed this for my husband, but I’ve already ordered the yarn to make one for myself (in white and blue!) For him, I wanted a hat with color and with a pattern resembling snowflakes, since he’ll be wearing it around the ski village.  But I didn’t want the color to be girly and I didn’t want the snowflakes to be obviously Nordic.  I like this pattern because the snowflakes are very geometric and not at all like the traditional “ski sweaters.”  The chart looks complicated but each row is easy to follow. Which was very nice, seeing as I was secretly knitting it five days before Christmas!  (Sadly, it took longer to get a good picture of the hat than it did to knit and write the pattern!)

 

I also used this hat as an excuse to work on my tubular cast on.  I don’t like rolled brims and I wanted to have the color work start as close to the beginning of the hat as possible.  So, a tubular cast on with ribbing that gives a nice stretchy edge and looks almost like stockinette seemed perfect.  The only drawback is that the cast on is best worked flat, but there isn’t much to sew up at the end.  However, if you don’t want to tackle the tubular cast on, cast on with the long tail cast on, join in the round and work 5 rounds of ribbing.  The tubular cast on will flip around until blocking.  Wet blocking is the way to go- afterwards the cast on will lay flat.  If it doesn’t, try running some elastic through the tube created by the cast on to hold it down.

 

The hat is cast on flat in sport weight yarn, then joined in the round and worked circularly for the rest of the pattern.  The color chart is repeated 8 times around the hat.  I found it helpful to place a marker at the end of each chart repeat.  After the color work, the yarn is switched from sport weight to worsted weight so that the plain stockinette section is quick to knit.  There are two sizes; the only difference between them is length.  The women’s size is 1″ shorter than the men’s.

 

         

 

Fireflake Hat

Download the PDF: Fireflake Hat

• Finished Size: 20″ x 7″ for Women’s, 20″ circumference, 8″ in Men’s, shown in Men’s
• Needles: 1 size 5(3.75mm) 16″ circular, 1 size 7(4.50mm) 16″ circular, 1 set size 7(4.50mm) DPNs 
• Yarn: Knit Picks Telemark: Black, Garnet Heather, Flame Heather, Persimmon Heather; Knit Picks Wool of the Andes: Coal
• Yardage: Black, 70yd; Garnet, 40yd; Flame, 15yd; Persimmon, 15yd; Coal, 80yd
• Gauge:  25 sts x 29 rows = 4″ in sport weight Color Chart; 22 sts x 26 rows = 4″ in worsted weight stockinette
• Extras: 24″ waste yarn (for cast on), tapestry needle, stitch markers (optional)

 

Special Stitches

Tubular Cast On:  There are many great tutorials online about tubular cast ons. I use TechKnitter’s technique.  TechKnitter also links to other tutorials for this cast on.  Here is a video tutorial.

1×1 Ribbing: *K1, p1* to the end of the row.

 

Brim

Using the a 1×1 rib tubular cast on, cast on 129 stitches with Telemark Black on the smaller circular needle.  Do not join in the round.  (If using a long-tail cast on, cast on 128 sts, join in the round, and work 5 rows of 1×1 ribbing.  Move on to the Color Work Section.)

Work 4 foundation rows (k1, sl 1 purlwise with yarn in front) as per tutorial instructions.

Work 1 row of K1 P1 ribbing until the last stitch of the row.  Join in the round by knitting the last stitch together with the first stitch of the row. 1 st decreased; 128 sts

 

Color Work

Knit 1 round Black.

Knit 1 round Garnet Heather.

Knit 1 round Black.

Work Color Chart 8 times around the hat. (Both charts below are the same.  One is in color, one is in symbols; use whichever one is best for you.  Click on the charts to enlarge.)

  

Knit 1 round Black.

Knit 1 round Garnet Heather.

Knit 1 round Black.

Switch to larger circular and join Wool of the Andes Coal.  Cut Telemark Black.

Decrease Round: K1, *k2tog, k3, k2tog, k2,* to the last 5 sts, k2tog, k3.  28 sts decreased; 100 sts

Knit until the hat measures 5.25″ [6.25"] from the cast on edge.

 

Shape Top

Dec Rnd: *k2, k2tog,* to the end of the round. 25 sts decreased; 75 sts

Knit 2 rounds even.

Dec Rnd: *k2, k2tog,* to the last 3 sts, k3.  18 sts decreased; 57 sts

Knit 2 rnds even.

Dec Rnd: *k1, k2tog,* to the end of the round.  19 sts decreased; 38 sts

Knit 1 round even.

Dec Rnd: *K1, k2tog,* to the last 2 sts, k2.  12 sts decreased; 26 sts

Knit 1 rnd even.

Dec Rnd: K2tog 13 times.  13 sts decreased; 13 sts

Knit 1 round even.

Dec Rnd: K2tog 6 times, k1.  6 sts decreased; 7 sts

Cut yarn and thread through the remaining stitches.  Pull tight and weave in all ends. Use the tail from the cast on to sew up the gap in ribbing.

Wet block to remove brim curl and relax the color work.

     

 

Please Note: I post my patterns as soon as I’ve completed them because I’m excited to share them with you. They have not been fully tested. I’ve made every effort to make sure that the instructions are clear and error-free. There may be typos or pattern mistakes and if you find them or have any questions, please let me know by posting a comment or emailing me, dailyskein at gmail.com.

 

This work by Cailyn Meyer is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.